Burgundy
Burgundy produces some of the most regal Grand Cru and Premier Cru wines in the world. With 100 different appellations, myriad individual vineyards and more than 3,000 individual producers, around 15 million cases are produced there annually from 26,500ha of vines. Burgundy has five sub-regions: Chablis in the Yonne department; the Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune in the Côte d'Or; and the Chalonnais and Mâconnais in the Saone-et-Loire.
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2018 Puligny-Montrachet, Clos de la Garenne, 1er Cru, Domaine Joseph Colin
The 2018 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru La Garenne mingles aromas of green orchard fruit and white flowers with nuances of patisserie, followed by a medium to full-bodied, racy and precise palate that combines texture with cut, as do so many of Colin's wines this year.
{***}{region} Puligny-Montrachet {region} {color} White {color} {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage} {ratings} [] The Wine Advocate:: 91/100 {ratings}{***}
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2018 St Aubin, Sur le Sentier du Clou, 1er Cru, Domaine Joseph Colin
A deft application of wood sets off airy and cool aromas that include those of citrus, pear and a whiff of mineral reduction. There is more volume if perhaps not quite the same electricity to the medium-bodied flavors that possess better mid-palate flesh, all wrapped in a clean, dry and citrusy finale. This would benefit from having more depth, but it may well develop if allowed 3 to 5 years of cellaring. ( Burghound)
{***}{region}St Aubin{region} {color}White{color} {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage}{***}
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2018 St Aubin, Les Frionnes, 1er Cru, Domaine Joseph Colin
Les Frionnes is a premier cru from 40-year-old vines, located at 300 metres of altitude on the steep hills of Saint-Aubin. This is one of the coolest climats in the appellation. The wine is matured in Burgundy barrels, with ¼ new oak. The wine exudes aromas of white flowers and flint. With a little of bottle aging, the palate is glycerine and silky with incredible tension.
{***}{region}St Aubin{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage} {ratings} {ratings} {***}
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2018 St Aubin, La Châtenière, 1er Cru, Domaine Joseph Colin
This is a blend of Chatenière and Bas de Gamay à l’Est, both of which are on the same steep, southwest-facing slope. It’s an outstanding wine with a thick texture and a refined, flint reduction running through the core. Pure, mineral and grippy with plenty of dry extract, this is a wine of supreme class. Drink 2023-2029.
{***}{region}St Aubin{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage} {ratings}
{ratings} {***}
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2019 Berry Bros. & Rudd Chablis by Domaine du Colombier
Chablis producers have defined the style of chardonnay in this famous region, and this has all the purity and steely freshness with classic aromas of crushed oyster shell and lime, plus plenty of ripe stone fruits, fresh acidity, minerality and an oyster shell finish. Brilliant on its own, but perfect with Good Friday fish pie, goats cheese salad and shellfish.
{***}{region}Chablis{region} {color} White{color} {maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}{***}
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2019 Mâcon La Roche Vineuse, Vieilles Vignes, Olivier Merlin
This old-vine cuvée is fermented and aged for the first year in oak, before moving to tank to avoid drying out. The nose is surprisingly serious, with some spicy oak reduction. It’s quite peachy and rounded initially on the palate, before a pleasing salinity arrives and tightens up the finish. Drink 2021-2025.
{***}{region} Mâcon{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}{***}
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2018 Berry Bros. & Rudd Nuits-St Georges, Benjamin Leroux
The fruit for our 2018 Nuits-St Georges comes from 50-year-old vines in three different vineyards. The warm vintage has yielded a generous, spicy wine with a rich and rounded mouthfeel. Red and black cherries jostle for attention with sweet oak spice, while supple tannins and refreshing acidity make this an excellent wine for the table. Drink now to 2026.
{***} {region}Nuits-St Georges{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}{***}
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2017 Berry Bros. & Rudd Gevrey-Chambertin by Rossignol-Trapet
Made with fruit from 65-year-old, organically farmed vines, our 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin is charming, fleet-footed and delicate. Using two-thirds whole bunches and just 15% new oak, brothers David and Nicolas Rossignol have produced a vibrant and energetic wine with a beguiling floral perfume, sweet crushed strawberry fruit and a refreshing finish. Try it with lighter red meat dishes or salmon.
{***} {region}Gevrey-Chambertin{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage} {ratings} {ratings}{***}
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2019 Chablis, Montmain, 1er Cru, Domaine Pinson Frères
These vines are slightly younger than those in Forêt, planted in 1956. There’s clay in the soil here, a real boon in 2019 as it helped the vines to weather the dry summer. Earthy and restrained, this will require a little more time to mature, but there’s a real energy and substantial weight of fruit. It’s very promising. Drink 2023-2030.
{***}{region}Chablis{region} {color}White{color} {maturity}laying-down{maturity}
{maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}
{ratings} [] Burghound:: 91/100 [] Jasper Morris MW:: 90-93/100 Outstanding {ratings}
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2012 Chablis, Les Clos, Grand Cru, Domaine Billaud-Simon
The 2012 Chablis Les Clos is all about texture. A deep, layered wine, the Clos is going to need at least a few years to fully blossom, but it is impressive today. Hints of white orchard fruit meld into flowers and subtle spice notes in a striking, compelling Chablis that is a wonderfully alive in the glass. There is so much to look forward to here. - Antonio Galloni
{***}{region}Chablis{region} {color}White{color} {maturity}drink-now{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text} {vintage}2012{vintage}
{ratings} [] Antonio Galloni:: 95/100 [] Allen Meadows:: 94/100 {ratings}
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2019 Bourgogne Blanc, Dominique Lafon
Dominique has used a mixture of 500-litre demi-muids and barriques, with 20% new wood. The fruit, as usual, is 50-50 between Puligny and Meursault; both elements play their part. The vintage has given the wine a creamy attack and, initially, the wine is very full on the palate, but it trims to a more sculpted Puligny-style finish. Drink 2021-2025.
{***}{region}Burgundy{region} {color}White{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}{***}
2019 Bourgogne Blanc, Dominique LafonBurgundy2019 Bourgogne Blanc, Dominique LafonBottle Price 75 cl $265.00 -
2018 Bourgogne Blanc, Jean-Philippe Fichet
This is from just 1.5 hectares of domaine vineyards within the Meursault commune, which cover all its aspects, north to south. Matured in a mix of 600- and 500-litre oak barrels, it’s a very tight and classic Meursault-style Bourgogne Blanc, with a pleasing grip and top note of spice. Drink now to 2024.
{***}{region}Burgundy{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}{***}
2018 Bourgogne Blanc, Jean-Philippe FichetBurgundy2018 Bourgogne Blanc, Jean-Philippe FichetBottle Price 75 cl $205.00 -
2018 Bourgogne Blanc, Clos-du-Château, Domaine de Montille
This comes from the five hectares immediately in front of the château, a park until it was planted in 1986. Brian did not use any SO2 until after the malolactic fermentation, and the wine is only aged in minimum 500-litre barrels. It’s classically Puligny in style, with flinty reduction and a pure, floral, citrus profile. Drink 2021-2026.
{***}{region} Burgundy{region} {color} White {color}
{maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}{***}2018 Bourgogne Blanc, Clos-du-Château, Domaine de MontilleBurgundy2018 Bourgogne Blanc, Clos-du-Château, Domaine de MontilleBottle Price 75 cl $199.00Bottle Price 150 cl $455.00 -
2019 Pouilly-Vinzelles, La Soufrandière, Bret Brothers
The fruit comes from the lower slopes and younger vines of the excellent Les Quarts vineyard – which sits on a perfectly exposed south-east-facing slope with views over the Saone valley towards Mont Blanc. Eighty percent is made in tank, for freshness. The rest is fermented and aged in old barrels, giving a gentle oxygenation which rounds out the palate and adds complexity. The nose is packed with apple and pear, with a light dusting of acacia, vanilla and straw. Juicy and medium bodied on the palate, this offers plenty of concentration and a saline, precise finish. This biodynamic Burgundy is excellent value. Drink now to 2026.
{***} {region} Burgundy{region} {color} White {color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}{***}
2019 Pouilly-Vinzelles, La Soufrandière, Bret BrothersBurgundy2019 Pouilly-Vinzelles, La Soufrandière, Bret BrothersBottle Price 75 cl $278.00Bottle Price 150 cl $585.00 -
2019 Pouilly-Vinzelles, Climat Les Quarts, La Soufrandière, Bret Brothers
{***}{region}Burgundy{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage} {ratings}
[] Jasper Morris MW:: 89-92/100
{ratings} {***}
2019 Pouilly-Vinzelles, Climat Les Quarts, La Soufrandière, Bret BrothersBurgundy2019 Pouilly-Vinzelles, Climat Les Quarts, La Soufrandière, Bret BrothersBottle Price 75cl $348.00Bottle Price 150cl $708.00 -
2019 St Véran, La Combe Desroches, La Soufrandière, Bret Brothers
This wine has a pronounced mineral character and saline finish: it’s “linear” in the brothers’ words. It hails from a north-facing vineyard, which performs well in warm years like 2019. It’s raised predominantly in tank – 80% of the blend – to lock in that tension. Drink 2020-2026.
{***}{region} St Véran {region} {color} White {color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}{***}
2019 St Véran, La Combe Desroches, La Soufrandière, Bret BrothersSt Véran2019 St Véran, La Combe Desroches, La Soufrandière, Bret BrothersBottle Price 75 cl $268.00Bottle Price 150 cl $515.00 -
2018 Meursault, Les Poruzots, 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille
Poruzots is a vineyard quick to ripen, and Brian takes care to pick this in good time, as evidenced by the vibrant bead of acidity which runs through the wine. There is the classic Poruzots breadth, along with an earthy reduction, but there is real freshness here. It was in 20% new oak. Drink 2023-2029.
{***}{region}Meursault{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}{***}
2018 Meursault, Les Poruzots, 1er Cru, Domaine de MontilleMeursault2018 Meursault, Les Poruzots, 1er Cru, Domaine de MontilleBottle Price 75 cl $750.00Bottle Price 150 cl $1,495.00 -
2018 Meursault, Saint Christophe, Domaine de Montille
This wine comes from the climats of Casse-Tête, Les Petits Charrons and Narvaux du Dessous, three terroirs which are perfectly sited in the middle of the hill of Meursault, also known as the Montagne Saint-Christophe. There is good weight here, but this is a true hillside Meursault with a serious acid structure, graphite reduction and chewy, mineral finish. Drink2022-2028.
{***}{region} Meursault {region} {color} White {color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}20168{vintage}{***}
2018 Meursault, Saint Christophe, Domaine de MontilleMeursault2018 Meursault, Saint Christophe, Domaine de MontilleBottle Price 150 cl $1,275.00 -
2018 Puligny-Montrachet, Les Aubues, Domaine Jean-Claude Bachelet
This is a wonderfully positioned vineyard for a simple village wine, nestling under the Grand Cru Bâtard-Montrachet. The Bachelets’ parcel also touches Chassagne’s Les Encegnières. The fruit is rich and luscious, around a very mineral and compact core. A very fine example at this level. Drink 2022-2025.
{***}{region}Puligny-Montrachet{region} {color}White{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}{***}
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2018 Puligny-Montrachet, La Garenne, 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille
This high, exposed vineyard close to Blagny is benefitting from this current run of warm vintages. The 50-year-old vines yield very small berries, but the warmth of the year has added some lustrous fruit to the steely core of minerality. Drink 2024-2029.
{***}{region}Puligny-Montrachet{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}{***}
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2018 Puligny-Montrachet, Les Folatières, 1er Cru, Château de Puligny-Montrachet
From half a hectare in the middle of the slope, bordered either side by Leflaive and Leroy, this is the essence of Puligny. It’s floral and citrus on the nose, with a more rounded, elegant and voluptuous texture, then an intense freshness which Brian feels will only increase with time. Drink 2025-2032.
{***}{region}Puligny-Montrachet{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}
{ratings}[] Vinous:: 91-93/100
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2018 Clos Blanc de Vougeot, 1er Cru, Domaine de la Vougeraie
A monopole, this vineyard has been home to white grapes since 1110, when it was first planted by the monks of Citeaux. A beguiling and intriguing wine, it is taut and cocooned in youth, yet fulsomely aromatic with time. There’s a touch of cream in 2018. Drink 2023-2032.
{***}{region} Burgundy {region} {color} White {color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage} {ratings} {ratings}{***}
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2018 Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Macherelles, 1er Cru, Jean-Claude Bachelet & Fils
Les Macherelles is situated in the northern part of Chassagne-Montrachet, just outside the village itself. The vineyard is notable for its iron-rich red clay soils, which always give a chewy, mineral aspect to the wine. The nose is rather exuberant, with some peach and mandarin notes interspersed with mealy spice and a touch of oak. This is an intense and quite powerful wine, but with a persistent thread of sinewy, mineral freshness.
{***}{region}Chassagne-Montrachet{region} {color} White {color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}{***}
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2002 Savigny-les-Beaune, Rouge, La Dominode, 1er Cru, Domaine Pavelot (Magnum)The Peuillets vineyard is sandy and can suffer in the heat. This is not about complexity, aiming instead for an openness of style and a creamy palate, at which it succeeds very well, but without compromising vitality. Drink 2020-2024.
Jean-Pierre Guyon tasted his berries on 8th September and was not impressed. He waited for the rain that weekend and was among the last to harvest on 15th September. He got lucky, but his assiduous vineyard work must also have helped the astonishing transformation. It’s an hugely impressive range, better than 2016 in Jean-Pierre’s view, and certainly one of the best addresses this year. He has smart new labels as well, with vin biologique proudly to the fore. There is more terroir definition this year, and Jean-Pierre will bottle a little earlier.{***} {region}Burgundy{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage}
{ratings}[] Wine Advocate:: 90-92/100 {ratings}
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2017 Volnay, Caillerets, 1er Cru, Domaine Bitouzet-Prieur
This is an outstanding site renowned for its intensely mineral wines; sadly the Bitouzets only own enough to make barely three barrels. The nose is a little marked by the oak at the moment but will absorb the wood with time; there is certainly the fruit and the rocky, precise tannins to carry this. A vin de garde. Drink 2024-2032.
{***} {region}Volnay{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage}
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2018 Pommard, Les Rugiens-bas, 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille
Domaine Boisson-Vadot, run by father and son team of Bernard and Pierre Boisson, is one of the rising stars in Meursault. The philosophy of the Domaine revolves around careful, hands-on vineyard management to coax the greatest potential of each vintage out of the various plots, and low-impact winemaking in the cellars that allows the unique terroir of each vineyard to surface. New oak is very minimal, no more than 30% for the top cuvées, and much more restraint in the village wines and in Bourgogne Blanc.
Pierre Boisson produces a village Meursault from his grandmother’s vineyards (50 year old vines in the lieu-dits of Criots and Perchots) that is hailed an model wine for the appellation.{***}{region}Pommard{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage}
{ratings}
[] Vinous:: 94/100
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2016 Pommard, Rugiens-Hauts, 1er Cru, Benjamin Leroux
Having made Clos des Epeneaux at Comte Armand, Ben had always harboured an ambition to make Pommard’s other great wine, so was delighted to take the opportunity; this comes from a plot in the lower part of Les Rugiens-Hauts. There is a real concentration of fruit here, Grand Cru weight and a wonderfully elegant tannic structure which underlines the class of this site.
{***}{region} Pommard{region} {color} Red {color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2016{vintage} {ratings} [] Wine Advocate:: 90/100{ratings}{***}
2016 Pommard, Rugiens-Hauts, 1er Cru, Benjamin LerouxPommard2016 Pommard, Rugiens-Hauts, 1er Cru, Benjamin LerouxBottle Price 75 cl $735.00Was $820.00 -
2017 Nuits-St Georges, Clos de Thorey, 1er Cru, Domaine de la Vougeraie
This is a very well-situated vineyard just on the north side of the town of Nuits. Vougeraie has the centre of the vineyard, known as Clos de Thorey, although there isn’t actually a clos. With very refined tannins, it’s very pure, the freshness of the finish tinged with a hint of sweet spice. Drink 2023-2028.
{***}{region} Nuits-St Georges{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}laying-down{maturity}
{maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage}{***}
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2018 Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Corbeaux, 1er Cru, Domaine Sérafin Père & Fils
Sérafin’s vines sit within a clos of sorts here, in what used to be a cemetery. The vines are 50 years old and the wine has a fine-boned structure wrapped like a belt around a weighty, spicy middle. This is quite a substantial wine, but it will age well. Drink 2026-2032.
{***} {region}Gevrey-Chambertin{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text}
{vintage}2018{vintage}
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2017 Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos Prieur, 1er Cru, Domaine Rossignol-TrapetThey aren’t especially old vines here, having been replanted after the frosts of 1985, although the vineyard was spared last year. Situated immediately below Mazis, this is more aromatically understated but has a lovely, effortless intensity. Drink 2022-2027.
For Nicolas, with the domaine’s focus on biodynamics, this was an année calme, a welcome respite between 2016 and 2018. His biggest challenge was to manage the pruning of the canes affected by last year’s frosts, so a green harvest was necessary as well. Harvesting started on 5th September in their Beaune-Teurons. He opted for lighter extraction this year with no punchdowns, but some délestage (rack and return) for aeration. Nicolas feels the style is very close to their 2016s. It is certainly a fine range this year and proof that good vineyard work was key to success.
{***} {region}Gevrey-Chambertin{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage}
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2019 Chambolle-Musigny, Les Cras, Domaine Michèle & Patrice Rion
The lower part here is Premier Cru, beside Les Fuées. This is from the village section, above Les Fuées and adjacent to Bonnes Mares. Its altitude is a real benefit during global warming. The perfume is bright, pure and lifted; the palate is full of redcurrant fruit with chalky tannins. It’s charming and full of joie de vivre. Drink 2022-2032.
{***}{region}Chambolle-Musigny{region} {color} Red{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage} {ratings} [] Vinous:: 91-93/100 [] Jasper Morris MW:: 90-93/100{ratings} {***}
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2017 Volnay, Santenots-du-Milieu, 1er Cru, Domaine des Comtes Lafon
The 2017 Volnay 1er Cru Les Santenots-du-Milieu confirms its strong showing from barrel, soaring from the glass with scents of ripe cherries, red berries, rose petals, orange rind and a deft touch of toasty new oak. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with melting tannins, succulent acids and a charming, supple profile that makes it hard to resist. - Wine Advocate
{***} {region}Volnay{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage}
{ratings} [] Wine Advocate:: 93/100
[] Vinous:: 93/100
[] Burghound:: 92/100
{ratings}
{***}
2017 Volnay, Santenots-du-Milieu, 1er Cru, Domaine des Comtes LafonVolnay2017 Volnay, Santenots-du-Milieu, 1er Cru, Domaine des Comtes LafonBottle Price 75 cl $990.00Bottle Price 150 cl $2,575.00 -
2018 Volnay, En Caillerets, 1er Cru, Benjamin Leroux
Ben’s parcel is located just above the famous Clos des 60 Ouvrées. Caillerets gives some of Volnay’s most joyous and headily perfumed wines, redolent of violet and rose. There are some old vines, up to 70 years old, and Ben uses as much whole-bunch as he can (80% this year), based on each vine’s genetic quality. The year’s ripeness translates to succulence, but the terroir also gives composure and equanimity. Drink 2026-2033.
{***} {region}Volnay{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For Laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}
{ratings} {ratings}
{***}
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2019 Chablis, Domaine Pinson Frères
This is a blend of five parcels, split 50-50 between the left and right banks of the Serein. Raised entirely in stainless steel to preserve freshness, the attractive nose offers ripe orchard fruits and a touch of sea breeze. The palate is surprisingly concentrated and dense for a village wine but retains its Chablis minerality. It’s very attractive. Drink 2021-2026.
{***}{region}Chablis{region} {color}White{color} {maturity}drink-now{maturity} {maturity-text}
drink-now
{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}{***}
2019 Chablis, Domaine Pinson FrèresChablis2019 Chablis, Domaine Pinson FrèresBottle Price 75 cl $208.00 -
2019 Chablis, Domaine Sébastien Dampt
A classic Chablis nose features notes of sea breeze, shellfish and algae that add interest to the intensely citrusy nose. There is good if not special volume to the vibrant and attractively textured flavors that brim with minerality on the clean and agreeably dry but not really austere finale. This is worth checking out. 2023+
Allen Meadows, Burghound, (December 2020){***}{region}Chablis{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}
{ratings} [] Burghound :: 89/100
[] Jasper Morris MW :: 89/100
{***}
2019 Chablis, Domaine Sébastien DamptChablis2019 Chablis, Domaine Sébastien DamptBottle Price 75 cl $190.00 -
2019 St Véran, Le Grand Bussière, Olivier Merlin
This vineyard has a high proportion of Chardonnay Muscaté, which gives the wine its characteristic floral nose with rose petals and a touch of blood orange. As ever, this is picked early to preserve freshness, and there’s a pleasing bitterness to the finish of this otherwise generous wine. Drink 2021-2026.
{***}{region} St Véran {region} {color} White {color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}
{ratings} [] Jasper Morris MW ::87-90/100
{ratings}
{***}
2019 St Véran, Le Grand Bussière, Olivier MerlinSt Véran2019 St Véran, Le Grand Bussière, Olivier MerlinBottle Price 75 cl $268.00 -
2019 Mâcon-Vinzelles, Clos de Grand-Père La Soufrandière, Bret Brothers
This one-hectare plot, purchased by the Brets’ grandfather, lies on relatively deep soils in the heart of the village of Vinzelles – overlooked by the primary school and mairie. Conceived for early drinking, it’s expressive and harmonious from the word “go”. Its texture is gorgeous. Drink 2020-2023.
{***} {region} Burgundy{region} {color} White {color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}{***}
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2019 Pouilly-Fuissé, Sur La Roche, Olivier Merlin
When the classification arrives in 2020, this will be the highest-altitude Premier Cru in Pouilly-Fuissé: it’s over 300 metres above sea level. There’s a little more ripeness to the nose here, but the palate retains the signature freshness of the vineyard. A star performer this year, this has wonderful salinity and minerality. Drink 2024-2030.
{***}{region} Pouilly-Fuissé {region} {color} White {color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For Laying Down{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}
{ratings} [] Jasper Morris MW:: 90-92/100
[] Vinous:: 92/100
{ratings}
{***}
-
2018 Puligny-Montrachet, Domaine de Montille
Most (80%) of this wine comes from a section of the Chalumeaux Premier Cru vineyard, which had to be declassified in 1975 when the previous owner illegally imported some fertile topsoil. Deep roots and soil erosion have since rectified the damage and, combined with parcels from Levron and Baudrières-Nosroy, this makes a top village Puligny. It’s precise, clean and classic, with floral top notes. Drink 2022-2029.
{***}{region}Puligny- Montrachet{region} {color} White{color}
{maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage} {ratings} {ratings} {***}2018 Puligny-Montrachet, Domaine de MontillePuligny- Montrachet2018 Puligny-Montrachet, Domaine de MontilleBottle Price 75 cl $565.00Bottle Price 150 cl $1,195.00 -
2018 St Aubin, En Remilly, 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille
The upper part of this vineyard is very well-exposed and can sometimes give exotic wines if picked too late. This, however, is perfectly balanced, with a ripe-fruit attack underpinned by stinging acidity and a chewy grip on the finish. A serious and textural wine. Drink 2022-2029.
{***}{region}St Aubin{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage} {ratings} {ratings} {***}
2018 St Aubin, En Remilly, 1er Cru, Domaine de MontilleSt Aubin2018 St Aubin, En Remilly, 1er Cru, Domaine de MontilleBottle Price 75 cl $450.00Bottle Price 150 cl $895.00 -
2019 Meursault, Les Gruyaches, Jean-Philippe Fichet
Gruyaches is tucked in under Charmes, on the Premier Cru side of the road to Puligny. The oldest vines date to 1930. It’s as good, if not better, than some Premier Cru Charmes, just above it. The site is warm, with clay over limestone, but the old vines give moderation. The wine is intense, honeyed, layered and harmonious. Drink 2022-2032.
{***}{region} Meursault {region} {color} White {color} {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}
{ratings} []Jasper Morris MW:: 90-92/100
{ratings}
{***}
-
2019 St Véran, La Côte-Rotie, Olivier Merlin
This is a much bigger cuvée, yielding around thirty barrels; it’s a site Olivier knows well. As the name suggests, this is a well-exposed slope, but there’s plenty of limestone and the rootstock is late ripening. There’s some orange blossom and mandarin here, with serious acidity and a grippy, textural finish. Drink 2023-2029.
{***}{region} St Véran {region} {color} White {color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}
{ratings} [] Jasper Morris MW ::87-89/100
{ratings}
{***}
2019 St Véran, La Côte-Rotie, Olivier MerlinSt Véran2019 St Véran, La Côte-Rotie, Olivier MerlinBottle Price 75 cl $245.00 -
2019 Mâcon-la Roche Vineuse, Les Cras, Olivier Merlin
This cuvée is from old vines planted on a steep, south-facing site with high limestone content. It’s a wine which always punches above its weight, requiring a few years before approaching. Olivier shows this after the St Vérans, such is the regard in which it’s held. The 2019 is very concentrated, if a little more accessible than usual. Drink 2022-2027.
{***}{region} Mâcon{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}{***}
-
2019 Puligny-Montrachet, Les Levrons, Domaine Bitouzet-Prieur
This well-sited vineyard sits immediately below Premier Cru Les Referts, close to the Meursault boundary. Coming amid the run of Meursaults in the tasting, it always stands in stark contrast: its bonier, leaner Puligny architecture is even more exaggerated. It’s very concentrated with stony, spicy notes. There’s perhaps just an atom of Meursault in its genes. Drink 2022-2030.
"An even more floral blend is composed by notes of mostly essence of pear and apple. The finer and sleeker but not richer middle weight flavors possess a beguiling texture that carries over to the citrusy, clean and bone-dry finale. This stylish effort is very Puligny in character and well-worth checking out. " 89-91pts Outstanding, Allen Meadows, Burghound
"Notes of citrus zest, warm bread, hazelnuts and white flowers introduce the 2019 Puligny-Montrachet Les Levrons, a medium to full-bodied, satiny and precise wine with a pretty core of fruit that's girdled by bright acids." 90pts William Kelley, Wine Advocate
{***}{region}Puligny-Montrachet{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}
{ratings}[] Jasper Morris MW:: 89-92/100
[] Burghound:: 89-91/100
[] Wine Advocate:: 90/100
{ratings}
{***}
-
2019 Meursault, Clos du Cromin, Domaine Bitouzet-Prieur
Close to Les Corbins, this offers a very contrasting style: it has a tighter structure and quite a saline lick. The intensity of the acidity adds a sparkle to the fruit’s top notes; they’re closer to apricot, with some appealing smoky spice, allspice perhaps. The wine has great length, retaining fine composure in the context of the vintage. Drink 2022-2029.
{***} {region}Meursault{region} {color}White{color} {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}
{ratings} [] Vinous:: 90-92/100
[] Jasper Morris MW:: 89-91/100
{ratings}
{***}
-
2019 Chablis, Vaillons, 1er Cru, Domaine Pinson Frères
From a 0.2-hectare site in the climat of Châtains, this wine is fermented in tank and raised in used barrels. It’s open and appealing, with ripe citrus fruits and a touch of iodine on the nose. The palate is crisp and bright; a pleasing seam of acidity brings things to a harmonious and salivating finish. Drink 2022-2028.
{***}{region}Chablis{region} {color}White{color} {maturity}laying-down{maturity}
{maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}
{ratings} [] Burghound:: 90/100 [] Jasper Morris MW:: 89-91/100 Outstanding {ratings}
{***}
-
2017 Beaune, Les Bons Feuvres, Domaine Sébastien Magnien
This juicy and voluptuous Pinot Noir comes from vines in a natural suntrap not far from Pommard. The oak is well-integrated and adds a hint of spice, but the emphasis here is on ripe red-berry fruit. As ever with Sébastien's reds, its tannins seem to melt in the mouth. It makes a showstopping pairing with chargrilled tomahawk steak. Drink now to 2023.
{region}Beaune{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage}
{ratings} {ratings} {***}
2017 Beaune, Les Bons Feuvres, Domaine Sébastien Magnien2017 Beaune, Les Bons Feuvres, Domaine Sébastien MagnienBottle Price 75 cl $198.00Was $238.00 -
2018 Chassagne-Montrachet, Domaine de Montille
The fruit here is from two parcels totalling 0.67 hectares: Les Houillères, which bestrides the Chassagne/Puligny boundary, and Champ Derrière, just below Château de Chassagne-Montrachet. There’s plenty of texture this year; the wine’s viscous, with a hint of wild honey and a long, rich finish. Drink 2022-2028.
{***}{region}Chassagne-Montrachet{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}{***}
-
2018 Monthélie, Les Duresses, 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille
The 2018 Monthélie Les Duresses has a well-defined, focused bouquet of pretty white flower and Granny Smith apple scents. The palate is well balanced with fine depth, a good seam of acidity and a gentle, orange pith-tinged finish. This is a fine Montagny. Drink 2021-2026. Neil Martin 88-90 points
Smoky aromas of pear, apple, spice and a whiff of citrus zest lead to equally energetic if somewhat less concentrated flavors that exude more evident minerality on the delicious and crunchy finish. This too is attractively refreshing. Drink 2024+. Allen Meadows 88-91 points
88-91AM
{***}{region}Burgundy{region} {color} White{color}
{maturity}drink-now{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage} {ratings} [] Neil Martin:: 88-90/100
[] Allen Meadows:: 88-91/100
{ratings}{***}
-
2018 Chassagne-Montrachet, Embazées, 1er Cru, Benjamin Leroux
This is a higher vineyard in Chassagne, on the appellation’s southern border. The soil is poor and stony over limestone. This Chassagne is riper than an equivalent Meursault this year, with an extra 0.5% potential alcohol, despite being harvested on the same day. But there is plenty of detail in the fruit and a lush, unctuous finish. Drink 2023-2029.
{***}{region}Chassagne-Montrachet{region} {color} White {color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}{***}
-
2018 Nuits-St Georges, Les Pruliers, 1er Cru, Domaine Jean Grivot
The deeper clay soil here has preserved an energetic, mentholated freshness, which provides an engaging counterpoint to the black cherry fruit and bitter dark chocolate notes. The attack is friendly and generous, but there is serious structure behind, and this will require patience. Drink 2025-2031.
{***}{region} Nuits-St Georges{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}{***}
-
2017 Clos de Vougeot, Grand Cru, Domaine Jean Grivot
The Grivots have been working very hard at their Clos de Vougeot over the years, looking to soften the wine’s usually sturdy tannins. Certainly there is a suavity this year, a touch of Vosne magic, perhaps. A strong wine that Étienne is trying to educate. Drink 2025-2032.
{***}{region} Burgundy {region} {color} Red {color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage} {ratings} {ratings}{***}
-
1985 Beaune, Les Teurons, 1er Cru, Camille Giroud - Ex-Cellar 2021At Maison Camille Giroud, a diversity of terroir allows for delicious variety. From perfumed, plush reds to perfumed whites; their precise wines are made from plots all across the famed Côte d’Or – what unites each parcel is a signature precision and character.
{***} {region}Burgundy{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}drink-now{maturity} {maturity-text}Drink Now{maturity-text} {vintage}1985{vintage}
{***}
-
2018 Beaune, Les Grèves, 1er Cru, Dominique Lafon
Dominique rents this from the same owner as Vignes Franches, and the vines are also 60 years old. Arguably Beaune’s best vineyard, this has an extra layer of dark, meaty richness alongside the usual bright, floral notes. Drink 2024-2031.
{***}
{region}Beaune{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity}
{maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}
{ratings} {ratings} {***}
2018 Beaune, Les Grèves, 1er Cru, Dominique LafonBeaune2018 Beaune, Les Grèves, 1er Cru, Dominique LafonBottle Price 75 cl $495.00 -
2017 Morey-St Denis, En la Rue de Vergy, Lignier-Michelot
This lieu-dit just above Clos de Tart has a very cool, mineral terroir. This saw 80 percent whole-bunch and 30 percent new oak. The nose is pretty, with a delicate lift and an energy which flows through to the palate. Pleasant, medium-weight fruit is underpinned by a cool, chalky grip from the limestone soil. Drink 2020-2024.
{***} {region}Morey-St Denis{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage}
{***}
2017 Morey-St Denis, En la Rue de Vergy, Lignier-MichelotMorey-St Denis2017 Morey-St Denis, En la Rue de Vergy, Lignier-MichelotBottle Price 75 cl $445.00Was $475.00 -
2018 Gevrey-Chambertin, Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Sérafin Père & Fils
The vines for this cuvée are 70 years old on average, with some nudging 100 years. The parcels are neighbours to the Grands and Premiers Crus of Griottes, Petite Chapelle, Crais and Champeaux. There is a step up in concentration versus the regular bottling, with greater detail and complexity, and a lovely salivating freshness to finish. Drink 2024-2030.
{***} {region}Gevrey-Chambertin{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text}
{vintage}2018{vintage}
{***}
-
2018 Volnay, Les Champans, 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille
Brian was limited to 50% whole-bunch here; it would have been more, but there was no space in the tank. Champans can tend towards the rustic and tannic, and Brian softens the edges to give a softer, gentler and more delicate expression with silky tannins and lovely, perfumed lift. Drink 2023-2029.
{***}{region} Volnay {region} {color} Red {color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage} {ratings} {ratings}{***}
-
2018 Pommard, Les Pézerolles, 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille
As Pommards go, Les Pézerolles is rather Volnaysien in style, thanks to its limestone soils, which give a more elegant and delicate expression. The fruit here is most definitely red and this is pretty, perfumed and charming, but with a serious, chalky limestone structure. Drink 2024-2032.
{***}{region}Pommard{region} {color} Red{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage} {ratings} {***}
-
2017 Gevrey-Chambertin, Domaine Sylvie Esmonin
This is a notably ripe 2017 with its dark fruit aromas that include cassis, plum and newly turned earth. The vibrant, intense and solidly concentrated medium weight flavors exude a discreet minerality onto the complex and persistent bitter cherry pit-inflected finish that possesses just enough rusticity to warrant mentioning. Drink 2025+
{***} {region}Gevrey-Chambertin{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage}
{ratings} [] Burghound:: 89/100
{ratings}
{***}
-
2010 Charmes-Chambertin, Grand Cru, Olivier Bernstein
There are two suppliers for this wine, one each located in Charmes and Mazoyères-Chambertin. The nose for this Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru is plump and open, but attractively fresh. The stems show a bit, more structure than usual, improving the overall structure of the wine. Another impressively long finish.
{***}{region} Gevrey-Chambertin {region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2010{vintage}
{ratings} []Burghound:: 91-94/100
[]Jancis Robinson:: 17/20
{ratings}
{***}
-
2011 Chambertin, Clos de Bèze, Grand Cru, Olivier Bernstein
Rich full purple. An explosive nose of weight and majesty, everything you would hope for. Chassin barrel shows again, marvellous mid palate fruit, then a wonderful long finish based around a complex basket of fruit, superb texture, seamless, and enormously long. Again there is a wonderful, fresh undercurrent which comes from picking at the right time. Bravo. Throughout this wine shows a beautiful grain of finesse, with silky tannins all the way through.
Jasper Morris MW{***}{region} Gevrey-Chambertin {region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2011{vintage}
{ratings} []Burghound:: 93-96/100
{ratings}
{***}
-
2009 Mazis-Chambertin, Grand Cru, Olivier Bernstein
This Mazis will not lie down easily to the challenge posed by the Clos de Bèze for top dog status in the Bernstein range. It has a marvellously dense, backward nose and a sublimely full palate coming from grapes which were evidently picked at the perfect moment. There is a fabulous crunchy finish and amazing persistence. The 80 year old vines are speaking. It may open out a little earlier, but otherwise 2018-2028.
Jasper Morris MW{***}{region}Gevrey-Chambertin{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2009{vintage} {ratings} []Burghound:: 93-95/100
[]Jancis Robinson:: 17/20
{ratings}{***}
-
2011 Savigny-Lès-Beaune, Les Peuillets, 1er Cru, Domaine GuyonHere the earthy and serious nose features notes of black currant and wild dark berries that serve to introduce moderately firm and well-detailed flavors that exude a fine minerality on the powerful, long and moderately austere finish. This is not at all a typical Peuillets as it lacks the usual finesse. To be sure, this is a perfectly good wine but well outside what I expect from the appellation.
{***} {region}Burgundy{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}drink-now{maturity} {maturity-text}Drink Now{maturity-text} {vintage}2011{vintage}
{ratings}[] Burghound:: 88/100 {
ratings
}
{***}
2011 Savigny-Lès-Beaune, Les Peuillets, 1er Cru, Domaine GuyonBurgundy2011 Savigny-Lès-Beaune, Les Peuillets, 1er Cru, Domaine GuyonBottle Price 75 cl $370.00Was $395.00 -
2014 Gevrey-Chambertin, Lavaux Saint-Jacques, 1er Cru, Domaine Faiveley
Deep ruby red colour with an attractive nose offering intense aromas of small black fruits. A powerful, warm and concentrated wine with exceptional aromatic intensity with elegant tannins and a touch of leather that linger son the finish.
This parcel is situated in the northern part of the village just before the valley. This climat's name is derived from "La Val", the term used in the Middle Ages to refer to a low point in the land, a topographic rift. Along with "Les Cazetiers" and "Clos Saint-Jacques", this climat is considered to be one of the 3 best Premiers Crus in Gevrey. The Domaine purchased this parcel in late 2013.{***}{region}Gevrey-Chambertin{region} {color} Red{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2014{vintage}{***}
-
2017 Chambolle-Musigny, Benjamin Leroux
Benjamin Leroux produced 13 barrels of this Chambolle-Musigny in 2017; three of them come from the Chatelots Premier Cru vineyard. The nose is pretty and perfumed, with peony and rose petal notes alongside some wild berry aromas. The palate is clean and energetic, with real intensity and purity. This is a focused, precise and mineral expression of Chambolle-Musigny. Drink now to 2025.
{***} {region}Chambolle-Musigny{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage}
{ratings} {ratings}
{***}
2017 Chambolle-Musigny, Benjamin LerouxChambolle-Musigny2017 Chambolle-Musigny, Benjamin LerouxBottle Price 75 cl $575.00 -
2018 Clos de Vougeot, Grand Cru, Domaine de la Vougeraie
{***}{region} Burgundy {region} {color} Red {color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage} {ratings} {ratings}{***}
2018 Clos de Vougeot, Grand Cru, Domaine de la VougeraieBurgundy2018 Clos de Vougeot, Grand Cru, Domaine de la VougeraieBottle Price 75cl $1,550.00Bottle Price 150cl $3,050.00 -
2018 Puligny-Montrachet, Les Chalumeaux, 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille
Some 80% of de Montille's 2018 Puligny-Montrachet Village consists of declassified premier cru Les Chalumeaux, which may account for why it's so good this year. Revealing notes of citrus oil, white flowers, fresh pastry and beeswax, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and succulent, combining charming fruit with mineral nuance to persuasive effect. (89 - 91 points, The Wine Advocate, 13th February 2020)
{***}{region}Puligny-Montrachet{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}{***}
-
2020 Berry Bros. & Rudd Bourgogne Côte d'Or Pinot Noir by Benjamin Leroux
Our friend Benjamin Leroux has made this excellent Burgundian Pinot Noir for us. Sourced exclusively from vineyards in Chorey-lès-Beaune, this wine punches above its weight in complexity and elegance. The nose is serious and brooding; pepper notes accompany charming wild-berry fruits. The warm and sunny vintage delivers generous morello cherry and subtle spice. It’s approachable now but has the structure to keep for three to five years. Pair this versatile wine with charcuterie, cheese and heartier dishes.
{***} {region}Burgundy{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}drink-now{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text} {vintage}2020{vintage} {***}
-
2019 Meursault, Jean-Philippe Fichet
The ingredients here are some of Meursault’s best village vineyards. Chaumes de Narvaux is elegant and mineral, Clous adds finesse, Limouzin is nestled among the Premiers Crus, giving depth and richness, while Criots and Crotots add textbook buttery notes. Jean-Philippe works his magic and makes one of the best examples at this level, showing creamy and crystallised fruits. Drink 2022-2030.
{***}{region} Meursault {region} {color} White {color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}
{ratings} [] Jasper Morris MW:: 88-91/100
{ratings}
{***}
2019 Meursault, Jean-Philippe FichetMeursault2019 Meursault, Jean-Philippe FichetBottle Price 75 cl $468.00 -
2019 Bourgogne Blanc, Benjamin Leroux
Almost the whole blend is from the Côte d’Or, mostly Meursault; the inclusion of some Hautes-Côtes de Beaune fruit, for added zip, means it cannot use the Côte d’Or appellation. Ben uses 600-litre foudres, preserving the wine’s alluring freshness, with creamy textures from ageing on lees. A delicious benchmark. Drink 2021-2025.
{***}{region} Burgundy{region} {color} White{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage} {ratings} [] Jancis Robinson:: 16.5/20
[] Jasper Morris MW:: 88-88/20
{ratings}{***}
2019 Bourgogne Blanc, Benjamin LerouxBurgundy2019 Bourgogne Blanc, Benjamin LerouxBottle Price 75 cl $199.00 -
2018 Vosne-Romanée, Benjamin Leroux
Ben now has access to all the vines from his supplier in Vosne, so this year this wine is an even more complex quilt of different vineyards, namely Basses Maizières, Genaivrières, La Rivière, Aux Raviolles and Les Jacquines. It’s full of sumptuous, open and juicy fruit, with a lovely positive mid-palate. The greater volume this year from the newer vineyards means a little less whole-bunch, at 33%.
{***}{region}Vosne-Romanée{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage} {ratings} {ratings}{***}
2018 Vosne-Romanée, Benjamin LerouxVosne-Romanée2018 Vosne-Romanée, Benjamin LerouxBottle Price 75 cl $585.00 -
2018 St Aubin, Derrière la Tour, 1er Cru, Domaine Jean-Claude Bachelet
The 2018 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière La Tour is showing nicely, mingling aromas of cherries and red berries with hints of potpourri and spices. Medium to full-bodied, bright and fleshy, the combination of a warm vintage and a cooler, higher-altitude site is felicitous.
{***}{region}St Aubin{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}
{ratings} [] Wine Advocate:: 90/100
{ratings}
{***}
-
2019 Chablis, Fourchaume, 1er Cru, Le Domaine d'Henri
Half these vines were planted in 1964, the rest in ’99. The younger vines provide fruit and energy, the older density and concentration. The nose is restrained, showing green apple; the palate is generous without falling into yellow fruit. The texture is luxurious, with a stinging acidity to the finish. There’s power and freshness, with a lingering salinity. Drink 2022-2028.
{***}{region}Chablis{region} {color}White{color} {maturity}laying-down{maturity}
{maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}
{ratings} [] Jasper Morris MW:: 89-92/100 {ratings}
{***}
-
2019 Chablis, Fourchaume, 1er Cru, Domaine Gérard Duplessis
Old vines. Pale to mid yellow, with a warm spicy nose, not, so typical of Fourchaume, soft and fleshy behind, then brightens up at the finish. Slight caramel note at the moment, which should disappear. - Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy
{***}{region}Chablis{region} {color}White{color} {maturity}laying-down{maturity}
{maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}
{ratings} [] Jasper Morris MW:: 89-92/100 {ratings}
{***}
-
2018 Meursault, Le Tesson, Jean-Philippe Fichet
This centrally placed, steeply sloping vineyard is probably the pick of the Meursault village lieux-dits. Jean-Philippe has just under one hectare of vines planted in 1949, ’65 and ’76. Its easterly exposition gives a more mineral style, with an intense lift of fruit on the finish. Drink 2022-2029.
{***}{region} Meursault {region} {color} White {color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}
{ratings}
{ratings}
{***}
2018 Meursault, Le Tesson, Jean-Philippe FichetMeursault2018 Meursault, Le Tesson, Jean-Philippe FichetBottle Price 75 cl $595.00 -
2017 Beaune, Les Pertuisots, 1er Cru, Jean-Yves Devevey
With subtle perfume, this is rather lovely, but not glossy, as the vineyard lies towards Pommard so is more structured than most. Last year’s frosts were heavy here and have meant some retraining of damaged vines, reducing the normal yield by 40 percent, but they should be back in commission by the 2019 vintage. Drink 2020-2024.
{region}Beaune{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage}
{ratings} {ratings} {***}
-
2012 Nuits-St Georges, Les Vignes Rondes, 1er Cru, Domaine Confuron-Cotétidot
A distinctly floral nose of spice, plum and earth introduces relatively refined medium-bodied flavors that display a touch of wood on the solidly complex, well-balanced and persistent finish. As is typically the case this is an elegant Nuits but with the structure to reward longer-term cellaring. - Allen Meadows, Burghound
{***}{region} Nuits-St Georges {region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2012{vintage}
{ratings} [] Burghound:: 89-92/100
{ratings}
{***}
-
2017 Yann Durieux, Recrue des Sens, Love and Pif, Vin de France
The vines are grown respecting Organic and Biodynamic Agriculture principles. The Domaine does not trim, and all the vines are plaited (like Leroy Domain does), which creates bridges between the wines. Yann wants to limit or stop the use of copper in the vinyard. The Domain uses herbal preparation and decoctions to treat plantation. Some years it is almost possible, others, like 2016 is not possible. Yann Durieux spend a lot of time observing the vineyard, making research to find right solutions. Yann invests in equipment such as light chaser to be able to intervene at any time, with the least impact on the soil. This balance and reinforcement of the plant will allow Yann to work more serenely then in the cellar. The Domaine's wines are systematically made every year without any inputs. The use of chaptalisation, sulphiting and other "Bon-Dieuseries" are proscribed from the Domaine. This is why wines are very marked by the vintage effect.
{***} {region}Burgundy{region} {color}White{color} {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For Laying Down{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage}
{***}
-
2002 Clos des Lambrays, Grand Cru, Domaine des Lambrays2002 Clos des Lambrays, Grand Cru, Domaine des Lambrays2002 Clos des Lambrays, Grand Cru, Domaine des LambraysBottle Price 75cl $3,935.00
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2010 Clos des Lambrays, Grand Cru, Domaine des Lambrays
Very heady, fine, ripe, graceful fruit dominates here, with the stems beautifully integrated. A refreshing touch of acidity at the back of the palate enhances the experience of this brilliant wine which finishes in a state of grace and elegance.
Jasper Morris MWMaintaining his reputation as being one of the early pickers, Thierry Brouin, the experienced régisseur of Domaine des Lambrays, started on 22nd September in fine weather. He loves this vintage and with good reason. The Clos des Lambrays in particular is a sublime wine. But as with most domaines in 2010, yields are significantly down.
{***} {region}Morey-St Denis{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text} {vintage}2010{vintage}
{ratings} [] Wine Advocate :: 94/100{ratings}
{***}
-
2009 Volnay, Les Mitans, 1er Cru, Domaine Michel Lafarge
Lightish cherry red. Sweet complete nose. Very rich and sweet on the palate. Charming! But with good freshness too. Great balance and attack. Not heavy but not light either. Tingle on the finish. (Jancis Robinson, jancisrobinson.com, January 2011)
{***}{region} Volnay{region} {color} Red {color}
{maturity}drink-now{maturity} {maturity-text}Drink Now{maturity-text} {vintage}2009{vintage} {ratings}[] Jancis Robinson MW:: 17.5/20
{ratings}{***}
-
2018 Vosne-Romanée, Domaine d'Eugénie
Moderate wood influence surrounds the overtly spiced and ripe plum, dark currant and violet scents. The attractively textured, rich and sappy medium weight flavors possess very good depth on the lengthy finish where a touch of wood appears. This is quite good for its level and is a wine that should drink well on the younger side if that's your preference. - Allen Meadows, Burghound
{***}{region}Vosne-Romanée{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage} {ratings} [] Burghound:: 89-91/100
[] Vinous:: 88-90/100
{ratings}{***}
2018 Vosne-Romanée, Domaine d'EugénieVosne-Romanée2018 Vosne-Romanée, Domaine d'EugénieBottle Price 75 cl $775.00 -
2017 Auxey-Duresses, 1er Cru, Domaine Roulot
Roulot's only premier cru bottling of red grapes, the Auxey is perfect for those who enjoy an ethereal, mineral-driven style of Pinot Noir. The nose presents a harmonious medley of dark berries and spice, while the palate echoes the taut, crystalline character of the domaine's white wines. A chalky core underpins this red that will drink beautifully for at least the next decade.
{***} {region} Auxey-Duresses{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage}{***}
2017 Auxey-Duresses, 1er Cru, Domaine RoulotAuxey-Duresses2017 Auxey-Duresses, 1er Cru, Domaine RoulotBottle Price 75 cl $795.00 -
2016 Charmes-Chambertin, Grand Cru, Lucien Le Moine
A very pretty and airy nose features notes of red cherry, raspberry and spice with a shading of soft wood and earth. On the palate though this is not nearly as concentrated though there is still perfectly good concentration and a sleek muscularity on the vibrant, detailed and lingering finish. While this is by no means light, it is a Charmes built more along the lines of finesse than power. Drink 2028+
Burghound (Apr 2018){***}{region} Gevrey-Chambertin {region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2016{vintage}
{ratings}
[] Burghound:: 91-94/100
{ratings}
{***}
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2018 Nuits-St Georges, Roncière, 1er Cru, Domaine Jean Grivot
In Etienne’s hands Roncière is always an elegant and red-fruited expression of Nuits, even in a warm vintage such as 2018. Red fruit abounds on the caressing palate, while the finish is spicy and refreshing, with a cooling sage-mint feel. Drink 2024-2030.
{***}{region} Nuits-St Georges{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}{***}
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2004 Nuits-St Georges, Les Saint-Georges, 1er Cru, Domaine Faiveley
Consistently one of the highest quality vineyards in Nuits, producing wines deep in colour and fruit. With Faiveley providing a taut structure for ageing.
{***}{region} Nuits-St Georges {region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2004{vintage}
{ratings}
{ratings}
{***}
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2018 Corton-Charlemagne, Grand Cru, Camille Giroud
Five barrels of this were made in 2018. Most of the fruit comes from the cooler western side of the hill in Pernand-Vergelesses. This is classically proportioned with restrained stone-fruit and spine-tingling minerality. The finish is very textural, with a finely detailed and grippy mouth-feel. Drink 2024-2030.
{***}{region}Corton{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}{***}
2018 Corton-Charlemagne, Grand Cru, Camille GiroudCorton2018 Corton-Charlemagne, Grand Cru, Camille GiroudBottle Price 75 cl $1,250.00 -
2018 Meursault, Porusots, 1er Cru, Domaine des Comtes Lafon
The 2018 Meursault Les Porusots 1er Cru is maybe the dark horse of Dominique Lafon’s wines this vintage. Exceptional clarity and delineation on the nose the crushed rock and white flower scents wafting from the glass. The palate is well defined and sports a very subtle reduction. Powerful and intense with plenty of spice ginger and white pepper enhancing the finish. Superb. (Drink between 2023-2045)- Vinous
{***}{region}Meursault{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}
{ratings} [] Vinous:: 95/100
{ratings}
{***}
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2017 Nuits-St Georges, Clos Saint-Marc, 1er Cru, Domaine Michèle & Patrice Rion
This vineyard sits across the road from the house, with quite deep (two metres) topsoil over marne. Very typically Nuits, there’s plenty of black fruit and sweet spice on the nose, while the palate offers red and black cherry, and some floral touches. Weighty, dense and concentrated with a rocky, limestone texture to the tannins; it’s deep, dense, complex and age-worthy. Drink 2023-2030.
{***}{region} Nuits-St Georges {region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage}{***}
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2017 Morey-St Denis, Les Chenevery, 1er Cru, Lignier-Michelot
Discreet but not invisible wood and menthol influences set off the much riper aromas of cassis, plum, black raspberry and game. There is excellent intensity to the mineral-driven and overtly powerful middle weight plus flavors that offer excellent depth and persistence on the firmly structured finale. This is really quite good and worth checking out provided you cellar it for at least 5 to 7 years first. 93 Points - Burghound
{***} {region}Morey-St Denis{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage}
{ratings} [] Burghound:: 93/100
{ratings}
{***}
-
2018 Beaune, Les Greves, 1er Cru Domaine de Montille
Here there is a bit more wood influence on the distinctly earthy and quite floral aromas of dark currant poach plum and a softly spicy top note. The sleeker if not quite as dense medium-bodied flavors possess focused power that really builds as the dusty and serious finish sits on the palate. Excellent. Drink starting 2033. - Burghound
{***} {region}Burgundy{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}
{ratings} []Burghound:: 91-93/100
[]Wine Advocate:: 91-93/100
[]Vinous:: 91-93/100
[]Jasper Morris:: 92-95/100
{ratings}
{***}
-
2019 Chambolle-Musigny, Les Baudes, 1er Cru, Domaine Sérafin Père & Fils
This is from the northern end of Chambolle, immediately under Bonnes Mares, with which it shares some personality: this is a stronger style of Chambolle. There’s plenty of intent about the wine, and it has the shoulders to carry it off. A forthright and assertive wine, the slightly ferric tannins play a key role, underpinned by spicy oak. Drink 2027-2038.
{***} {region}Chambolle-Musigny{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text}
{vintage}2017{vintage}
{ratings} {ratings}
{***}
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2019 Clos-St Denis, Grand Cru, Domaine Stephane Magnien
Power, opulence and elegance characterize this magnificent wine of the Côte de Nuits. Among the most prestigious appellations in the world, Clos St Denis is one of the most successful wines by Domaine Magnien.
On the palate a full-bodied wine, very concentrated and complex. Roundness and balance are the reflection of a great vintage and a successful vinification.
{***}{region}Morey-St Denis{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}{***}
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2018 Morey-St Denis, Vieilles Vignes, Lignier-Michelot
This is from Très Girard, Les Cognées and the village section of Chenevery, with the oldest vines aged 80 years. There is deeper clay here and the wine is in a more generous style for Morey. It’s very plush in 2018, but given dimension by a spicy, chunky finish. Drink 2022-2026.
{***} {region}Morey-St Denis{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}
{ratings}
{ratings}
{***}
-
2018 Corton, Clos du Roi, Grand Cru, Domaine de Montille
As is typical, whole bunches make up two-thirds this year, with new oak maintained at around 50%. The vines are almost 85 years old, providing an intensity and elegance to this wine, which has a ferrous and meaty middle, but a beautifully delineated and elegant finish. Drink 2025-2035.
{***}{region}Corton{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}{***}
-
2018 Clos de Vougeot, Grand Cru, Domaine de Montille
Like the Aux Thorey the nose is mildly reduced but the underlying fruit seems ripe. There is very good energy to the moderately concentrated flavors that also possess an attractive mid-palate mouthfeel before terminating in a youthfully austere and refreshingly saline-inflected finish. Drink 2033+, Burghound (Apr 2020)
{***}{region} Burgundy {region} {color} Red {color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage} {ratings}
[] Vinous:: 91-93/100
[] Burghound:: 91-94/100{ratings}{***}
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2018 Morey-St Denis, Domaine des Lambrays
This is sourced from the domaine’s vineyards on the higher slope, Les Larrets above Lambrays and En la Rue de Vergy above Clos de Tart. With everything de-stemmed, the wine is very perfumed, floral and intense, lifted by evident limestone minerality. No Grand Cru fruit was included this year, nor will there be in the future, says Jacques. Drink 2022-2028.
{***} {region}Morey-St Denis{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}
{ratings}
{ratings}
{***}
2018 Morey-St Denis, Domaine des LambraysMorey-St Denis2018 Morey-St Denis, Domaine des LambraysBottle Price 75 cl $750.00 -
2017 Pommard, Les Rugiens-bas, 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille
Firm reduction knocks down the underlying fruit at present. There is more size and power to the equally mineral-driven flavors that aren't especially dense, though neither are they dilute, while offering outstanding depth and persistence on the notably firm finale. Patience suggested. Drink 2034+, Burghound (Apr 2019)
{***}{region}Pommard{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage}
{ratings}
[] Burghound:: 91-94/100
{ratings}
{***}
-
2017 Gevrey-Chambertin, Le Fonteny, 1er Cru, Dom. Sérafin Père & FilsThis is just above Corbeaux but further towards the Combe de Lavaux, thus north-facing, although it gets sun all day. The topsoil is especially feeble and the underlying rock is very hard. Unsurprising then that the wine should offer both ripeness and precision, and very successfully. Drink 2023-2028.
The harvest was done early and quickly here, starting on 6th September and finished by 12th. Karine Sérafin explained that the estate was harvesting earlier than before, to keep more freshness in the wines, and also working more with leaf coverage. The old vines negated any need to green harvest and yields are up by only 20 percent from 2016, but otherwise Karine and her cousin Frédérique are intent on preserving the individuality of Christian Sérafin’s style for vins de garde, with 100 percent new oak for everything upwards from the Gevrey Vieilles Vignes.{***} {region}Gevrey-Chambertin{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text}
{vintage}2017{vintage}
{***}
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2017 Morey-St Denis, Les Millandes, 1er Cru, Dom. Sérafin Père & Fils
Sérafin has two plots in this well-regarded Premier Cru, one with 60-year-old vines, the other closer to 40 years old. The purity and delicacy of the vineyard is evident and, given the vineyard’s proximity to both Clos de la Roche and Clos St Denis, there is much elegance in evidence too. Drink 2022-2027.
The harvest was done early and quickly here, starting on 6th September and finished by 12th. Karine Sérafin explained that the estate was harvesting earlier than before, to keep more freshness in the wines, and also working more with leaf coverage. The old vines negated any need to green harvest and yields are up by only 20 percent from 2016, but otherwise Karine and her cousin Frédérique are intent on preserving the individuality of Christian Sérafin’s style for vins de garde, with 100 percent new oak for everything upwards from the Gevrey Vieilles Vignes.{***} {region}Morey-St Denis{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage}
{ratings} [] Wine Advocate:: 89-91+/100
{ratings}
{***}
-
2008 Chambolle-Musigny, Les Fuées, 1er Cru, Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier
This is also admirably fresh and pure but the high-toned and airy nose of red pinot fruit and subtle spice notes is even more refined and complements the lilting, graceful and poised medium-bodied flavors that seem to be constructed on a firm base of minerality on the lingering and tension-filled finish. A classic Fuées with its hallmark mild austerity.
Allen Meadows - burghound.com - Jan 2011{***}{region} Chambolle-Musigny{region} {color} Red{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2008{vintage}
{ratings} [] Wine Advocate:: 91/100
[] Burghound:: 91/100
{ratings}
{***}
-
2018 Meursault, Perrières, 1er Cru, Domaine Henri Germain & Fils
Domaine Henri Germain is run by Henri's son, Jean-François Germain, who continues to employ traditional organic farming and winemaking. Yields are kept very low and vineyard work is done by hand, and in the winery Jean-François is extremely minimalist. Wines never see more than 20-30% new oak and are almost always bottled unfined and unfiltered. His wines display an incredible richness, complexity, character and depth of flavor that is unequaled in almost all of the region.
{***}{region}Meursault{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}{***}
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2014 Chambertin Clos De Bèze, Grand Cru, Domaine Gerard Raphet
An attractively spicy and beautifully layered nose offers up ripe aromas of red berry liqueur, violets, game and warm earth. There is good richness but also good detail to the vibrant middle weight flavors that possess good but not better mid-palate density before culminating in a firm, balanced and admirably long finish where a touch of youthful asperity appears. Note that this beguilingly and elegant wine is on the lighter side for a Clos de Bèze though it's one that should be approachable on the younger side but age well too over the medium-term. Drink 2024+, Burghound (Jan 2017)
{***}{region} Gevrey-Chambertin {region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For Laying Down{maturity-text} {vintage}2014{vintage}
{ratings} []Burghound:: 92/100
{ratings}
{***}
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2013 Clos-St Denis, Grand Cru, Domaine Gagey, Louis Jadot
A graceful tint of pale purple. Floral, with appealing sweet red fruit, clearly some concentration to the cherry and raspberry fruit, while there is clearly much more to emerge later on.
Jasper Morris MW - Wine Buyer{***}{region}Morey-St Denis{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2013{vintage}{***}
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1995 Volnay, Clos des Chênes, 1er Cru, Camille Giroud (Ex-Cellar 2021)
At Maison Camille Giroud, a diversity of terroir allows for delicious variety. From perfumed, plush reds to perfumed whites; their precise wines are made from plots all across the famed Côte d’Or – what unites each parcel is a signature precision and character.
Founded in 1865, Maison Camille Giroud began as a specialist négociant. They had a few hectares of their own vines, but the vast majority of their wines were purchased from top-ranked growers across the region. They’d then age these wines in their cellars until they reached peak maturity; sometimes decades later.
{***}{region}Volnay{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}drink-now{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text} {vintage}1995{vintage} {ratings}
{ratings} {***}
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2017 Pommard, Les Pézerolles, 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille
As Pommards go, Les Pézerolles is rather Volnaysien in style, thanks to its limestone soils which give a more elegant and delicate expression. The fruit here is most definitely red and while there is some structure it is chalkier than a typical Pommard, giving a more accessible and approachable style. Drink 2022-2028.
Winemaker Brian Sieve draws comparisons between the white wines of 2017 and 2014, explaining that the texture, weight and freshness are very similar in both years, although 2017 has perhaps a little more fruit ripeness, along with excellent tension and persistence. He believes that this same freshness and brightness in the reds will provide ageing capacity, pointing out that they worked hard to restrict the yield of Pinot Noir to achieve riper grapes. Overall slightly less whole-bunch fermentation was used as Brian felt the stems and fruit were not as ripe as in richer vintages.{***}{region}Pommard{region} {color} Red{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage} {ratings} {***}
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2017 Volnay, Les Taillepieds, 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille
As Pommards go, Les Pézerolles is rather Volnaysien in style, thanks to its limestone soils which give a more elegant and delicate expression. The fruit here is most definitely red and while there is some structure it is chalkier than a typical Pommard, giving a more accessible and approachable style. Drink 2022-2028.
Winemaker Brian Sieve draws comparisons between the white wines of 2017 and 2014, explaining that the texture, weight and freshness are very similar in both years, although 2017 has perhaps a little more fruit ripeness, along with excellent tension and persistence. He believes that this same freshness and brightness in the reds will provide ageing capacity, pointing out that they worked hard to restrict the yield of Pinot Noir to achieve riper grapes. Overall slightly less whole-bunch fermentation was used as Brian felt the stems and fruit were not as ripe as in richer vintages.{***}{region}Pommard{region} {color} Red{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage} {ratings} {***}
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2018 Mazis-Chambertin, Grand Cru, Domaine Faiveley
Once again there is just enough wood to point out along with hints of menthol, anise and the sauvage adding breadth to the ripe dark currant scents. As is usually the case, the larger-scaled flavors possess more size and weight if not the same refinement or minerality as the Latricières where the supporting tannins coat the palate on the grippy, serious and youthfully austere finale. This is very definitely and 'buy and forget it somewhere deep in the cellar' wine. Burghound
{***}{region}Gevrey-Chambertin{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage} {ratings} []Burghound:: 92-95/100
[]Wine Advocate:: 92-94/100
{ratings}{***}
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2017 Pommard, Clos des Epeneaux, 1er Cru Domaine du Comte Armand
As usual, older and younger vines are harvested and vinified separately. Tasted apart, the junior wine is lush and very driven by red fruit, the senior partner principally shows the density of old vines. Essayed in a 55-45 young-to-old-vine blend, the dark sweet fruit of the old vines is to the fore but kept mobile by the energy of the young vines. A very impressive double act. Drink 2025-2033.
{***}{region}Pommard{region} {color} Red{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For Laying Down{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage} {ratings} [] The Wine Advocate:: 92-94/100{ratings} {***}
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2017 Gevrey-Chambertin, Coeur du Roy, Très Vielles Vignes, Domaine Dugat-Py
Once again the aromatic expression is quite reserved while being filled with floral nuances that add a touch of elegance to the cool and pure essence of red currant, earth and herbal tea scents. There is excellent intensity to the sleek and mineral-inflected medium weight flavors that possess fine depth and persistence on the very firmly structured finish. Drink 2029+. Burghound (Jan 2020)
{***}{region} Gevrey-Chambertin{region} {color} Red{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For Laying Down{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage}
{ratings} [] Vinous:: 90-92/100
[] Burghound:: 90/100
{ratings}
{***}
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2016 Chevalier-Montrachet, Grand Cru, Château de Puligny-Montrachet (Magnum)
The estate has nearly a quarter of a hectare here, but suffered a 50 percent loss in 2016. Marvellously intense, this has an ethereal, cool, stone component – a classic character of this vineyard, with a lick of exotic nectarine on the finish. It was matured equally in a mixture of standard and demis, and with more and longer lees contact than usual, to feed the wine’s textural volume. It will need patience. Drink 2022-2032.
{***}{region}Puligny-Montrachet{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text} {vintage}2016{vintage}{***}
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2018 Clos Vougeot, Le Petit Maupertuis, Grand Cru, Benjamin Leroux
Having created a name for himself as régisseur (general manager) of Domaine du Comte Armand in Pommard, Benjamin Leroux established, with English backing, a small négociant business based in Beaune since 2007. The range is confined to the Côte d’Or, from Chassagne-Montrachet to Gevrey-Chambertin, with the intention of developing farming contracts or indeed purchasing vineyards in the future.
The possibilities are very exciting for this exceptionally talented vigneron. Benjamin is a master at delivering purity of fruit alongside a seamless texture in his wines which have only the subtlest influence of oak.{***}{region} Burgundy {region} {color} Red {color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage} {ratings} {ratings}{***}
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2018 Puligny-Montrachet, Le Cailleret, 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille (Magnum)
A wine which merits its name, this is stony and flinty on the nose, with smoky reduction running the length of the wine. The palate is salty, precise and tangy, with fine, chiselled detail and a pulpy richness to the finish. Drink 2025-2032.
{***}{region}Puligny-Montrachet{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}{***}
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2017 Chassagne-Montrachet, Blanc, Domaine Lamy-Pillot
Fresh fruits, pear, peach with integrated oak. Aromas of white flowers moving towards almond, toast and broiche. A complex mouth with good minerality. This wine has many seductive qualities. Intense, lively and generous.
{***}{region}Chassagne-Montrachet{region} {color}White{color} {maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage}{***}
-
2018 Chambertin, Clos de Bèze, Grand Cru, Domaine Faiveley
An even spicier and wonderfully expansive nose reflects notes of anise, clove, lavender and violet that suffuse the red and dark pinot fruit scents. The mouthfeel of the big-bodied flavors possess a lovely sense of underlying tension along with good detail and a subtle minerality on the equally firm but somewhat less austere finale. This is slightly more complete and a wine of class and grace though make no mistake, if you wish to see it at its peak, a good deal of patience is advised. Burghound (Jan 2020)
{***}{region} Gevrey-Chambertin {region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For Laying Down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}
{ratings} []Burghound:: 93-96/100
[]Wine Advocate:: 94-96/100
{ratings}
{***}
-
2017 Clos de Vougeot, Grand Cru, Domaine de la Vougeraie (Magnum)
{***}{region} Burgundy {region} {color} Red {color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage} {ratings} {ratings}{***}
-
2018 Nuits-St Georges, 1er Cru, Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Prieuré Roch
Selectively picked from the oldest vines of Clos des Corvées (the name “Clos des Corvées” is reserved exclusively for the first selective pick of “millerandés” grapes), a wine of enormous body and depth.
{***}{region} Nuits-St Georges{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}{***}
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2018 Hautes Côtes de Beaune, La Dalignère, Sebastien Magnien
Made from the fruit of a single vineyard (La Dalignère), this is inherently richer and more powerful than Sébastien's other Hautes-Côtes wines and he therefore chooses to raise it in barrel, rather than a combination of barrel and tank. The nose combines lifted floral and berry notes with an engaging earthy, spicy character. It has great concentration and depth of fruit on the palate, so try it with a hearty meat casserole.
{***} {region} Côtes de Beaune{region} {color} Red{color}
{maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}{***}
-
2019 Bourgogne Rouge, Terres de Famille, Domaine de la Vougeraie
The policy here is to give newly planted vines six or seven years before including their fruit in village level wines or above; this deluxe Bourgogne is a happy consequence. It’s a seamless blend of parcels from Volnay, Gevrey Evocelles, Clos de Thorey and the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits. Juicy and approachable, it’s not short of structure or complexity. Drink 2020-2024.
{***}{region}Burgundy{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}{***}
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2019 Bourgogne Pinot Noir, Domaine Henri Prudhon
Prudhon’s Bourgogne Rouge is an affordable and light-bodied Pinot Noir, made from grapes classified as Bourgogne and situated within the commune of St Aubin. It’s aged entirely in older oak barrels, which lend some subtle spice notes to the bright and pure fruit. The warm 2019 vintage has given the wine a little extra flesh and ripeness, with plenty of juicy, ripe red-berry fruit. This is a very drinkable red Burgundy. Drink now to 2025
{***}{region}Burgundy{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}{***}
2019 Bourgogne Pinot Noir, Domaine Henri PrudhonBurgundy2019 Bourgogne Pinot Noir, Domaine Henri PrudhonBottle Price 75 cl $148.00 -
2019 Bourgogne-Hautes Côtes de Nuits, Les Dames Huguettes, Patrice & Maxime Rion
This important vineyard in the Hautes-Côtes sits above the main vineyards of Nuits-St Georges. The Rions have access to fruit from vines planted at high density, which controls yield and improves quality. This has a very pretty redcurrant bouquet, with some finesse and good weight on the palate, showing none of the skinniness sometimes found in the Hautes-Côtes. Drink 2021-2027.
{***}{region} Burgundy {region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage}{***}
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2019 St Véran, En Crèches, Olivier Merlin
This is a small parcel which provides a maximum of 10 barrels per year. Olivier loves this site’s old vines and steep slope. It’s a seductive and silky expression of St Véran, with a pleasing acidity behind. It’s finely balanced. Drink 2022-2028.
{***}{region} St Véran {region} {color} White {color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}{***}
2019 St Véran, En Crèches, Olivier MerlinSt Véran2019 St Véran, En Crèches, Olivier MerlinBottle Price 75 cl $205.00 -
2019 Monthélie Blanc, Sous Le Cellier, Jean-Philippe Fichet
This sunny, steep, west-facing site was once planted to Pinot Noir; it was replanted to Chardonnay in 1994. Although the exposition always gives ripe fruit – an advantage here – the predominant notes are always of flowers and gunflint. In 2019, there’s an extra dimension of lime blossom and a fuller palate, still finishing firm. Drink 2022-2028.
{***}{region}Burgundy{region} {color} White{color}
{maturity}drink-now{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage} {ratings}
{ratings}{***}
-
2017 Santenay, Clos Rousseau, 1er Cru, Camille Giroud
This is a fine reminder of the potential of the “lesser” Burgundian villages. Admittedly this comes from the sweet spot in the Clos Rousseau vineyard, the Clos des Roches Noires, but there is a delicious creamy completeness about the wine, with complex aromas of spice and damson. Drink 2022-2027.
{***}{region} Santenay{region} {color} Red{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage} {ratings} {ratings}{***}
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2019 Meursault, Santenots, 1er Cru, Domaine Bitouzet-Prieur
This is from the upper Les Blancs section, near Volnay; much of this vineyard is planted to Pinot Noir. This section will be 50 years old next year, and the vines are shy-bearing and small-berried. There are just three barrels, but it’s impressive: intensely ripe but not overblown, the red wine terroir adding a suggestion of grilled bacon. Drink 2024-2035.
{***} {region}Meursault{region} {color}White{color} {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}
{ratings} [] Vinous:: 88-90/100
[] Jasper Morris MW:: 91-93/100
{ratings}
{***}
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2018 Meursault, Clos de la Barre, Domaine des Comtes Lafon
There is a phenolic note (think olive or nut oil elements) to the notably ripe white and yellow orchard fruit that includes hints of apricot, white peach and passion fruit. There is better verve to the delicious medium-bodied flavors that possess fine mid-palate density that is offset by the firm acid spine supporting the chiseled, linear and bone-dry finale. This is more tightly wound than it usually is and should also reward extended cellaring. *Burghound Outstanding top Value!*
{***}{region}Meursault{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}
{ratings} [] Vinous:: 92/100
[] Burghound :: 89-92/100
[] The Wine Advocate :: 90-92/100
{ratings}
{***}
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2005 Vosne-Romanée, Les Suchots, 1er Cru, Lucien Le Moine
A potent mix of wood spice, Vosne spice and pain grillé introduces rich, full, sweet and sleekly muscled flavors that are impressively scaled and powerful on the dusty, ripe and stunningly long finish. This really stains the palate and the intensity is almost painful yet there is impeccable balance. One to cellar.
{***}{region}Vosne-Romanée{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2005{vintage} {ratings} [] Allen Meadows:: 94/100 {ratings}{***}
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2017 Puligny-Montrachet, Les Combettes, 1er Cru, Domaine Jadot
{***}{region} Burgundy {region} {color} White {color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage} {ratings} [] Wine Advocate:: 91-93/100
{ratings}{***}
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2017 Puligny-Montrachet, Folatières, 1er Cru, Domaine Louis Jadot
{***}{region} Burgundy {region} {color} White {color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage} {ratings}
{ratings}{***}
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2018 Nuits-St Georges, Les St Juliens, Domaine de Montille
The 2017 Nuits Saint-Georges Aux Julien 1er Cru includes one-third whole cluster fruit with 20% new oak. This has a lifted bouquet, very perfumed and well defined with vivid red and black fruit. The palate is well balanced with crisp tannin, good backbone, with a slightly chewiness towards the finish. Give this a three to five years once in bottle. Fine.
Drink 2022-2030{***}{region} Nuits-St Georges{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}
{ratings} [] Vinous:: 89-91/100
[] Burghound:: 89/100
[] Jancis Robinson :: 17/20
{ratings}
{***}
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2019 Meursault, Les Grands Charrons, Pierre Boisson
This Meursault is made from Chardonnay cultivated on the small plot called Les Grands Charrons. Les Grands Charrons is located on a small straight road and presents a limestone nature and a reddening of its land more intense depending on the slope.
{***}{region} Meursault {region} {color} White {color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}
{ratings}
{ratings}
{***}
2019 Meursault, Les Grands Charrons, Pierre BoissonMeursault2019 Meursault, Les Grands Charrons, Pierre BoissonBottle Price 75 cl $1,350.00 -
2018 Meursault, Limozin, Domaine Henri Germain & Fils
Outstanding. Top Value. A slightly riper nose offers up aromas of white peach, lemongrass, hazelnut and spice hints that are in keeping with the equally ripe, round and nicely rich medium-bodied flavors that aren't quite as refined, all wrapped in a delicious and more complex finish. In a word, excellent. -Allen Meadows, Burghound
{***}{region}Meursault{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}
{ratings} [] The Wine Advocate:: 90-92/100
[] Burghound:: 89-92/100
{ratings}
{***}
-
2019 Chevalier-Montrachet, Grand Cru, Domaine de Montille
From the small block separated from the main vineyard, immediately above Le Cailleret from which it was created in 1955, and the most northerly plot of Chevalier. This is buzzing: Chevalier often feels tighter and less opulent than Le Montrachet, as is the case here, but the vintage’s freshness gives an irresistible dynamism to match the wine’s intensity. Drink 2028-2045.
{***}{region}Puligny-Montrachet{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For Laying Down{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}
{ratings} [] Neal Martin, Vinous:: 95-97/100
[] Jasper Morris MW:: 93-95/100
{ratings}
{***}
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2005 Chapelle-Chambertin, Grand Cru, Domaine Louis Jadot
Like the Griotte, the highly complex and distinguished nose is almost exclusively from the red berry side of the aromatic spectrum with round and rich but noticeably wood-influenced flavors where the oak is more of a textural aspect than a taste factor because it rounds off the finish. The material is sufficiently gifted to eventually deal with the wood but probably at the cost of precision and detail. Perhaps this will surprise to the upside as the old vine extract is certainly present in spades. - Burghound
{***}{region} Gevrey-Chambertin {region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text} {vintage}2005{vintage}
{ratings}
[] Jancis Robinson MW :: 18/20
[] Wine Advocate :: 92-94/100
[] Burghound :: 91-94/100
{ratings}
{***}
-
2018 Puligny Montrachet, Les Folatières, 1er cru, Olivier Leflaive
There is a mildly exotic character present on the petrol-inflected white and yellow orchard fruit aromas, and in particularly white peach, that are trimmed in just enough wood to notice. The succulent, rich and relatively full-bodied flavors possess a caressing mouthfeel while delivering impressive length where a subtle bead of minerality adds a sense of lift. *Burghound Sweet Spot Outstanding Top Value!" - Burghound
{***}{region}Puligny-Montrachet{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}
{ratings}[] Burghound:: 90-93/100
[] Wine Spectator:: 93/100
[] Decanter:: 95/100
{ratings}
{***}
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2018 Beaune, Les Teurons, 1er Cru, Domaine Rossignol-Trapet
From the higher, most favoured sector of the vineyard, directly below Aux Cras; the site is quite warm but stony, so always gives freshness. A gentle perfume and gossamer-like fruit. Drink 2021-2026.
{***}
{region}Beaune{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity}
{maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}
{ratings} {ratings} {***}
-
2018 Batard-Montrachet, Grand Cru, Domaine de la Vougeraie
{***}{region} Burgundy {region} {color} White {color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage} {ratings} {ratings}{***}
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2020 Berry Bros. & Rudd Pouilly-Fuissé by Olivier Merlin
The Merlin family have made this well-rounded white for us. The fruit comes from the villages of Vergisson, Chaintré and Fuissé. Notes of ripe melon, peach and white flowers on the nose are accompanied by a subtle hint of oak. The palate is generous and refreshing, with pear and apricot giving way to a cleansing finish. Enjoy this with fish and seafood dishes. Drink now to 2025.
{***}{region}Pouilly-Fuissé{region} {color} White{color} {maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text} {vintage}2020{vintage} {ratings} {ratings} {***}
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2017 Volnay, Frémiets, 1er Cru, Domaine du Comte ArmandThis is beautifully heady and perfumed. Some parcels are nearly 90 years old, and others 35 years old, with the crop a healthy 49.6hl/ha. Again, there is the impression of purity, sensuality and structure, aided in part by the contiguity of Pommard-Jarolières. Drink 2022-2028.
Paul Zinetti was realistic yet confident in the quality of his 2017s. Such an early harvest, which started in Volnay Frémiets on 3rd September and ended in Auxey on 11th September, provided new challenges which Paul addressed creatively and sympathetically. The wines were fruity and direct but he found that colour and structure were slow to come, so he kept the wine on skins for a week or more after fermentation. There is less whole-bunch this year as the stems weren’t always fully ripe, but his de-stemmer preserves a lot of whole berries anyway. He will bottle all the reds before Christmas without filtration but he will trial some fining to round out the tannins.
{***} {region}Volnay{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage}
{ratings} [] Wine Advocate: 89-91/100{
ratings
}
{***}
-
2008 Gevrey-Chambertin, Lavaux St Jacques, 1er Cru, Claude Dugat
The 2008 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St.-Jacques opens with sweet, floral notes that meld into spices and dark red fruits. Textured and enveloping throughout, the Lavaux St. Jacques impresses for the sheer pleasure it provides. The finish remains a bit taut, but in another few years this should be a gem. It is a dazzling wine from Claude Dugat. - Wine Advocate
{***}{region}Gevrey-Chambertin{region} {color} Red{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2008{vintage}
{ratings}[] The Wine Advocate:: 94/100
[] Burghound:: 91/100
{ratings}
{***}
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2019 Bourgogne Rouge, Les Cras, Olivier Merlin
This is from young vines from cuttings of old Pinot Fin – taken from the Clos des Epeneaux around 20 years ago – planted on a steep, south-facing limestone slope. With 50% whole bunches, there’s a gorgeous fragrant and floral nose, and a twist of herbal freshness on the palate. It’s stylish yet crunchy, with pretty red berry fruits. Drink 2022-2030.
{***} {region}Burgundy{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}
{ratings} {***}
2019 Bourgogne Rouge, Les Cras, Olivier MerlinBurgundy2019 Bourgogne Rouge, Les Cras, Olivier MerlinBottle Price 75cl $208.00 -
2019 Puligny-Montrachet, Les Enseignères, Domaine Henri Prudhon
This is one of Prudhon’s most prized holdings: just under one hectare of vines in the highly regarded vineyard of Les Enseignières. Despite its classification as “just” village-level, it sits immediate below the Grands Crus of Bâtard-Montrachet and Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet. The vines here are old, giving the wine plenty of concentration and complexity. The nose offers toasty oak, ripe white stone-fruit and some delicate floral touches. The palate is rich, citrussy and saline, with a struck-match note that prolongs the finish. This is textbook Puligny.
{***}{region}Puligny-Montrachet{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}
{ratings}
{ratings}
{***}
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2011 Chambolle-Musigny, Les Chatelots, 1er Cru, Domaine Ghislaine Barthod
This is very nicely perfumed and has a lovely mid palate of concentrated raspberries. It is quite dense for Chambolle, with an excellent fresh finish.
Jasper Morris MW, Berrys' Burgundy Director
Given that the sugar levels are not high in 2011, Ghislaine Barthod expected something lighter this year. However, the wines have come out with good texture and density. While accessible in the medium term, they show an attractive freshness and energy which puts them into a different class from the attractive 2007s. Chambolle-Musigny has done well in 2011, since the style of the appellation appreciates the fresher aspect of lower alcohol levels.{***} {region}Chambolle-Musigny{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2011{vintage}
{ratings}
{ratings}
{***}
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2018 Vosne-Romanée, La Combe Brûlée, Domaine Bruno Clavelier
One of the most beautiful vineyards of Terroir, with its more than 85 years of life, lives vibrant in the contrast between the freshness of the winds of the Combe and the heat held by the sunny pebbles of the ground.
{***} {region}Vosne-Romanée{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For Laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}
{ratings}
{ratings}
{***}
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2018 Vosne-Romanée, Les Hautes Maizières, Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Bruno Clavelier
This old vines cuvée comes from a tiny parcel of vines nearly 79 years in age that were planted by Massale Selection. The sub-soil here is chalk but there's limestone and clay up above. This is a structured red Burgundy that's powerful and will benefit from age. The majority of the domaine's vines are old vines (Massale) planted in the 1930s and 40s. Naturally the yields are miniscule for this reason making this wine all the more rare.
{***} {region}Vosne-Romanée{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}
{ratings}
{ratings}
{***}
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2010 Volnay, Les Taillepieds, 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille
Vinification with the stems gives these wines a notable character on the nose, with floral, spice and rose petals all coming to the fore, and an impressive density on the palate. This is a very graceful wine, and the finish shows a touch of tannin to maintain structure.
Jasper Morris MWDomaine de Montille picked between the 18th and 26th September in 2010. The red wines, made by American Brian Sieve (one of two winemakers in this catalogue born in Indianapolis!) under the surveillance of Etienne de Montille, now show a consistency of style and quality that perhaps was not entirely there a few years ago. The whites are the responsibility of Etienne’s sister Alix and maintain the class of recent times. Together they have produced a fine result in 2010.
{***}{region}Pommard{region} {color} Red{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2010{vintage} {ratings} [] The Wine Advocate:: 91-93/100 {***}
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2018 Nuits-St Georges, Aux Cras, 1er Cru, Domaine Bruno Clavelier
The vine comes from a great gene pool. It is regular and has many millerandage berries. The wine has the typical structure of Nuits-Saint-Georges, but the tannins are elegant and reflect the near Vosne-Romanée. The Nuits Saint-Georges 1er Cru Aux Cras is tasty and dynamic, always with a good balance. The flesh, very present, with notes of juicy black fruit (blackberries, blueberries, blackcurrants) is enriched with floral nuances (elder, heather) and spicy.
{***}{region} Nuits-St Georges {region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}{***}
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2018 Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Corbeaux, 1er Cru, Domaine Bruno Clavelier
A cool site giving low pH wines (higher acidity). Mid purple in colour with no great depth, an elegant light red fruit nose, strict, fresh raspberry and alpine strawberry. - Jasper Morris MW
{***}{region}Gevrey-Chambertin{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage} {ratings} [] Jasper Morris :: 89-93/100 {ratings}{***}
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2019 Puligny-Montrachet, Les Folatières, 1er Cru, Château de Puligny-Montrachet
Pale primrose. Lovely dense aromatic nose, very good weight of full, more white than yellow, fruit, with waves of flavour across the palate. I love the balance of this wine albeit in its richer style, with a very satisfying long finish.
Jasper Morris MW, insideburgundy.com (December 2020){***}{region}Puligny-Montrachet{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}
{ratings}[] Vinous:: 92-94/100
[] Jasper Morris MW:: 92-95/100
{ratings}
{***}
-
2019 Puligny-Montrachet, Sous le Puits, 1er Cru, Jean-Claude Bachelet & Fils
This is an opulent, broad-shouldered expression of Puligny, with a generous lick of toasty oak. The style of this wine initially seems at odds with the nature of the vineyard, then a wave of fresh acidity serves notice that Sous le Puits, above Blagny, is Puligny’s highest Premier Cru. Drink 2024-2028.
{***}{region}Chassagne-Montrachet{region} {color} White {color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}{***}
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2017 Monthelie, Domaine Coche-Dury
A mildly toasty red berry fruit nose evidences hints of raspberry liqueur. The supple, pliant and very round middle weight flavors possess a caressing mid-palate that contrasts mildly with the sneaky long if mildly rustic finish. This too should drink well early on though be capable of rewarding 5ish years of cellaring. Drink 2023+
{***}{region}Burgundy{region} {color} Red{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage} {ratings} [] Burghound:: 88/100 {ratings}{***}
2017 Monthelie, Domaine Coche-DuryBurgundy2017 Monthelie, Domaine Coche-DuryBottle Price 75 cl $2,050.00 -
2019 Meursault, Les Charmes-Dessus, 1er Cru, Benjamin Leroux
In Meursault’s golden rectangle, wines reach their peak in the higher (Dessus) parts of Charmes and Genevrières and the lower (Dessous) section of Perrières. This is Ben’s second vintage here; the wine shows some of the vineyard’s typical lime blossom before its back straightens and it becomes a serious proposition. Drink 2024-2036.
{***}{region}Meursault{region} {color}White{color} {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}
{ratings} [] Jasper Morris MW:: 92-94/100
[] Jancis Robinson MW:: 17/20
{ratings}
{***}
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2016 Vosne-Romanée, Aux Malconsorts, Christiane, 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille
This truly special wine is named after Etienne and Alix de Montille’s mother. It’s made from 0.49 hectares of vines which are now classified as Malconsorts but separated from the main domaine holding by a path – nestled against the north and west edges of La Tâche. While it has never been classified as part of the famous Grand Cru, it has a unique character which sets it apart. And the vines are older, giving a more concentrated expression. This is spicier and more darkly fruited than its partner, with a firmer tannic structure, greater concentration and more ageing potential. The wine is made with two-thirds whole-cluster and around 65% new oak. Drink 2024-2050.
{***}{region}Vosne-Romanée{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2016{vintage} {ratings} {ratings}{***}
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2008 Chablis, La Forest, 1er Cru, Vincent Dauvissat
Rene Dauvissats 2008 Chablis La Forest achieves a remarkably vibrant sense of interplay and complexity characteristic both for its vintage and for this cuvee at its best. Scents of iris, white truffle, crushed chalk, saline-alkaline ocean breeze, tart plum, white peach and grapefruit all have their counterparts in a palate performance of riveting interactivity and prodigious yet continually fascinating length. There is a firm feel, brightness, and in the end a tendency for its mineral aspects to slightly dominate this show that result in a sparer impression than the corresponding 2007, something of a reversal of these vintages normal roles. Once again, here is an exceptional Chablis premier cru that should be worth following for a dozen or more years.
David Schildknecht - 31/10/2010{***}{region}Chablis{region} {color}White{color} {maturity}drink-now{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text} {vintage}2008{vintage}
{ratings} [] Wine Advocate:: 94/100 {ratings}
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2008 Chablis, La Forest, 1er Cru, Vincent DauvissatChablis2008 Chablis, La Forest, 1er Cru, Vincent DauvissatBottle Price 75 cl $1,875.00 -
2018 Corton-Charlemagne, Grand Cru, Méo-Camuzet Frère & Soeurs
Five barrels of this were made in 2018. Most of the fruit comes from the cooler western side of the hill in Pernand-Vergelesses. This is classically proportioned with restrained stone-fruit and spine-tingling minerality. The finish is very textural, with a finely detailed and grippy mouth-feel. Drink 2024-2030.
{***}{region}Corton{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}{***}
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2018 Coteaux Bourguignons, Domaine Jean Grivot, Burgundy
The 2018 Côteaux Bourguignon, which is 100% Gamay, offers plush cranberry, dark cherry and bergamot aromas on the nose. The palate is sweet and candied on the entry, with good acidity, nice balance and veins of blue fruit toward the finish. Fine.
Neal Martin, vinous.com (Jan 2020)
{***} {region}Burgundy{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage} {***}