Burgundy
Burgundy produces some of the most regal Grand Cru and Premier Cru wines in the world. With 100 different appellations, myriad individual vineyards and more than 3,000 individual producers, around 15 million cases are produced there annually from 26,500ha of vines. Burgundy has five sub-regions: Chablis in the Yonne department; the Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune in the Côte d'Or; and the Chalonnais and Mâconnais in the Saone-et-Loire.
{***} {keyvisual_style}alt2{keyvisual_style} {filters} []white::White Burgundy []red::Red Burgundy []chablis::Chablis []meursault::Meursault []pouilly-fuisse::Pouilly Fuissé []gevrey-chambertin::Gevrey Chambertin []st-veran::St. Véran []st-aubin::St. Aubin []puligny-montrachet::Puligny Montrachet []chassagne-montrachet::Chassagne Montrachet []beaune::Beaune []santenay::Santenay []volnay::Volnay []pommard::Pommard []nuits-st-georges::Nuits-St Georges []vosne-romanee::Vosne-Romanée []chambolle-musigny::Chambolle-Musigny []corton::Corton []morey-st-denis::Morey-St Denis {filters} {***}
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2018 St Aubin, Sur le Sentier du Clou, 1er Cru, Domaine Joseph Colin
A deft application of wood sets off airy and cool aromas that include those of citrus, pear and a whiff of mineral reduction. There is more volume if perhaps not quite the same electricity to the medium-bodied flavors that possess better mid-palate flesh, all wrapped in a clean, dry and citrusy finale. This would benefit from having more depth, but it may well develop if allowed 3 to 5 years of cellaring. ( Burghound)
{***}{region}St Aubin{region} {color}White{color} {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage}{***}
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2019 Mâcon La Roche Vineuse, Vieilles Vignes, Olivier Merlin
This old-vine cuvée is fermented and aged for the first year in oak, before moving to tank to avoid drying out. The nose is surprisingly serious, with some spicy oak reduction. It’s quite peachy and rounded initially on the palate, before a pleasing salinity arrives and tightens up the finish. Drink 2021-2025.
{***}{region} Mâcon{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}{***}
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2019 Chablis, Montmain, 1er Cru, Domaine Pinson Frères
These vines are slightly younger than those in Forêt, planted in 1956. There’s clay in the soil here, a real boon in 2019 as it helped the vines to weather the dry summer. Earthy and restrained, this will require a little more time to mature, but there’s a real energy and substantial weight of fruit. It’s very promising. Drink 2023-2030.
{***}{region}Chablis{region} {color}White{color} {maturity}laying-down{maturity}
{maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}
{ratings} [] Burghound:: 91/100 [] Jasper Morris MW:: 90-93/100 Outstanding {ratings}
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2019 Bourgogne Blanc, Dominique Lafon
Dominique has used a mixture of 500-litre demi-muids and barriques, with 20% new wood. The fruit, as usual, is 50-50 between Puligny and Meursault; both elements play their part. The vintage has given the wine a creamy attack and, initially, the wine is very full on the palate, but it trims to a more sculpted Puligny-style finish. Drink 2021-2025.
{***}{region}Burgundy{region} {color}White{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}{***}
2019 Bourgogne Blanc, Dominique LafonBurgundy2019 Bourgogne Blanc, Dominique LafonBottle Price 75 cl $265.00 -
2018 Bourgogne Blanc, Clos-du-Château, Domaine de Montille
This comes from the five hectares immediately in front of the château, a park until it was planted in 1986. Brian did not use any SO2 until after the malolactic fermentation, and the wine is only aged in minimum 500-litre barrels. It’s classically Puligny in style, with flinty reduction and a pure, floral, citrus profile. Drink 2021-2026.
{***}{region} Burgundy{region} {color} White {color}
{maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}{***}2018 Bourgogne Blanc, Clos-du-Château, Domaine de MontilleBurgundy2018 Bourgogne Blanc, Clos-du-Château, Domaine de MontilleBottle Price 75 cl $199.00Bottle Price 150 cl $455.00 -
2019 Pouilly-Vinzelles, La Soufrandière, Bret Brothers
The fruit comes from the lower slopes and younger vines of the excellent Les Quarts vineyard – which sits on a perfectly exposed south-east-facing slope with views over the Saone valley towards Mont Blanc. Eighty percent is made in tank, for freshness. The rest is fermented and aged in old barrels, giving a gentle oxygenation which rounds out the palate and adds complexity. The nose is packed with apple and pear, with a light dusting of acacia, vanilla and straw. Juicy and medium bodied on the palate, this offers plenty of concentration and a saline, precise finish. This biodynamic Burgundy is excellent value. Drink now to 2026.
{***} {region} Burgundy{region} {color} White {color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}{***}
2019 Pouilly-Vinzelles, La Soufrandière, Bret BrothersBurgundy2019 Pouilly-Vinzelles, La Soufrandière, Bret BrothersBottle Price 75 cl $278.00Bottle Price 150 cl $585.00 -
2019 Pouilly-Vinzelles, Climat Les Quarts, La Soufrandière, Bret Brothers
{***}{region}Burgundy{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage} {ratings}
[] Jasper Morris MW:: 89-92/100
{ratings} {***}
2019 Pouilly-Vinzelles, Climat Les Quarts, La Soufrandière, Bret BrothersBurgundy2019 Pouilly-Vinzelles, Climat Les Quarts, La Soufrandière, Bret BrothersBottle Price 75cl $348.00Bottle Price 150cl $708.00 -
2019 St Véran, La Combe Desroches, La Soufrandière, Bret Brothers
This wine has a pronounced mineral character and saline finish: it’s “linear” in the brothers’ words. It hails from a north-facing vineyard, which performs well in warm years like 2019. It’s raised predominantly in tank – 80% of the blend – to lock in that tension. Drink 2020-2026.
{***}{region} St Véran {region} {color} White {color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}{***}
2019 St Véran, La Combe Desroches, La Soufrandière, Bret BrothersSt Véran2019 St Véran, La Combe Desroches, La Soufrandière, Bret BrothersBottle Price 75 cl $268.00Bottle Price 150 cl $515.00 -
2018 Meursault, Les Poruzots, 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille
Poruzots is a vineyard quick to ripen, and Brian takes care to pick this in good time, as evidenced by the vibrant bead of acidity which runs through the wine. There is the classic Poruzots breadth, along with an earthy reduction, but there is real freshness here. It was in 20% new oak. Drink 2023-2029.
{***}{region}Meursault{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}{***}
2018 Meursault, Les Poruzots, 1er Cru, Domaine de MontilleMeursault2018 Meursault, Les Poruzots, 1er Cru, Domaine de MontilleBottle Price 75 cl $750.00Bottle Price 150 cl $1,495.00 -
2018 Meursault, Saint Christophe, Domaine de Montille
This wine comes from the climats of Casse-Tête, Les Petits Charrons and Narvaux du Dessous, three terroirs which are perfectly sited in the middle of the hill of Meursault, also known as the Montagne Saint-Christophe. There is good weight here, but this is a true hillside Meursault with a serious acid structure, graphite reduction and chewy, mineral finish. Drink2022-2028.
{***}{region} Meursault {region} {color} White {color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}20168{vintage}{***}
2018 Meursault, Saint Christophe, Domaine de MontilleMeursault2018 Meursault, Saint Christophe, Domaine de MontilleBottle Price 150 cl $1,275.00 -
2018 Puligny-Montrachet, Les Aubues, Domaine Jean-Claude Bachelet
This is a wonderfully positioned vineyard for a simple village wine, nestling under the Grand Cru Bâtard-Montrachet. The Bachelets’ parcel also touches Chassagne’s Les Encegnières. The fruit is rich and luscious, around a very mineral and compact core. A very fine example at this level. Drink 2022-2025.
{***}{region}Puligny-Montrachet{region} {color}White{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}{***}
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2018 Puligny-Montrachet, La Garenne, 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille
This high, exposed vineyard close to Blagny is benefitting from this current run of warm vintages. The 50-year-old vines yield very small berries, but the warmth of the year has added some lustrous fruit to the steely core of minerality. Drink 2024-2029.
{***}{region}Puligny-Montrachet{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}{***}
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2018 Puligny-Montrachet, Les Folatières, 1er Cru, Château de Puligny-Montrachet
From half a hectare in the middle of the slope, bordered either side by Leflaive and Leroy, this is the essence of Puligny. It’s floral and citrus on the nose, with a more rounded, elegant and voluptuous texture, then an intense freshness which Brian feels will only increase with time. Drink 2025-2032.
{***}{region}Puligny-Montrachet{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}
{ratings}[] Vinous:: 91-93/100
{ratings}
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2018 Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Macherelles, 1er Cru, Jean-Claude Bachelet & Fils
Les Macherelles is situated in the northern part of Chassagne-Montrachet, just outside the village itself. The vineyard is notable for its iron-rich red clay soils, which always give a chewy, mineral aspect to the wine. The nose is rather exuberant, with some peach and mandarin notes interspersed with mealy spice and a touch of oak. This is an intense and quite powerful wine, but with a persistent thread of sinewy, mineral freshness.
{***}{region}Chassagne-Montrachet{region} {color} White {color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}{***}
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2018 Pommard, Les Rugiens-bas, 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille
Domaine Boisson-Vadot, run by father and son team of Bernard and Pierre Boisson, is one of the rising stars in Meursault. The philosophy of the Domaine revolves around careful, hands-on vineyard management to coax the greatest potential of each vintage out of the various plots, and low-impact winemaking in the cellars that allows the unique terroir of each vineyard to surface. New oak is very minimal, no more than 30% for the top cuvées, and much more restraint in the village wines and in Bourgogne Blanc.
Pierre Boisson produces a village Meursault from his grandmother’s vineyards (50 year old vines in the lieu-dits of Criots and Perchots) that is hailed an model wine for the appellation.{***}{region}Pommard{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage}
{ratings}
[] Vinous:: 94/100
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2018 Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Corbeaux, 1er Cru, Domaine Sérafin Père & Fils
Sérafin’s vines sit within a clos of sorts here, in what used to be a cemetery. The vines are 50 years old and the wine has a fine-boned structure wrapped like a belt around a weighty, spicy middle. This is quite a substantial wine, but it will age well. Drink 2026-2032.
{***} {region}Gevrey-Chambertin{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text}
{vintage}2018{vintage}
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2017 Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos Prieur, 1er Cru, Domaine Rossignol-TrapetThey aren’t especially old vines here, having been replanted after the frosts of 1985, although the vineyard was spared last year. Situated immediately below Mazis, this is more aromatically understated but has a lovely, effortless intensity. Drink 2022-2027.
For Nicolas, with the domaine’s focus on biodynamics, this was an année calme, a welcome respite between 2016 and 2018. His biggest challenge was to manage the pruning of the canes affected by last year’s frosts, so a green harvest was necessary as well. Harvesting started on 5th September in their Beaune-Teurons. He opted for lighter extraction this year with no punchdowns, but some délestage (rack and return) for aeration. Nicolas feels the style is very close to their 2016s. It is certainly a fine range this year and proof that good vineyard work was key to success.
{***} {region}Gevrey-Chambertin{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage}
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2019 Chambolle-Musigny, Les Cras, Domaine Michèle & Patrice Rion
The lower part here is Premier Cru, beside Les Fuées. This is from the village section, above Les Fuées and adjacent to Bonnes Mares. Its altitude is a real benefit during global warming. The perfume is bright, pure and lifted; the palate is full of redcurrant fruit with chalky tannins. It’s charming and full of joie de vivre. Drink 2022-2032.
{***}{region}Chambolle-Musigny{region} {color} Red{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage} {ratings} [] Vinous:: 91-93/100 [] Jasper Morris MW:: 90-93/100{ratings} {***}
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2017 Volnay, Santenots-du-Milieu, 1er Cru, Domaine des Comtes Lafon
The 2017 Volnay 1er Cru Les Santenots-du-Milieu confirms its strong showing from barrel, soaring from the glass with scents of ripe cherries, red berries, rose petals, orange rind and a deft touch of toasty new oak. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with melting tannins, succulent acids and a charming, supple profile that makes it hard to resist. - Wine Advocate
{***} {region}Volnay{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage}
{ratings} [] Wine Advocate:: 93/100
[] Vinous:: 93/100
[] Burghound:: 92/100
{ratings}
{***}
2017 Volnay, Santenots-du-Milieu, 1er Cru, Domaine des Comtes LafonVolnay2017 Volnay, Santenots-du-Milieu, 1er Cru, Domaine des Comtes LafonBottle Price 75 cl $990.00Bottle Price 150 cl $2,575.00 -
2018 Volnay, En Caillerets, 1er Cru, Benjamin Leroux
Ben’s parcel is located just above the famous Clos des 60 Ouvrées. Caillerets gives some of Volnay’s most joyous and headily perfumed wines, redolent of violet and rose. There are some old vines, up to 70 years old, and Ben uses as much whole-bunch as he can (80% this year), based on each vine’s genetic quality. The year’s ripeness translates to succulence, but the terroir also gives composure and equanimity. Drink 2026-2033.
{***} {region}Volnay{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For Laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}
{ratings} {ratings}
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2019 Chablis, Domaine Pinson Frères
This is a blend of five parcels, split 50-50 between the left and right banks of the Serein. Raised entirely in stainless steel to preserve freshness, the attractive nose offers ripe orchard fruits and a touch of sea breeze. The palate is surprisingly concentrated and dense for a village wine but retains its Chablis minerality. It’s very attractive. Drink 2021-2026.
{***}{region}Chablis{region} {color}White{color} {maturity}drink-now{maturity} {maturity-text}
drink-now
{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}{***}
2019 Chablis, Domaine Pinson FrèresChablis2019 Chablis, Domaine Pinson FrèresBottle Price 75 cl $208.00 -
2019 Chablis, Domaine Sébastien Dampt
A classic Chablis nose features notes of sea breeze, shellfish and algae that add interest to the intensely citrusy nose. There is good if not special volume to the vibrant and attractively textured flavors that brim with minerality on the clean and agreeably dry but not really austere finale. This is worth checking out. 2023+
Allen Meadows, Burghound, (December 2020){***}{region}Chablis{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}
{ratings} [] Burghound :: 89/100
[] Jasper Morris MW :: 89/100
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2019 Chablis, Domaine Sébastien DamptChablis2019 Chablis, Domaine Sébastien DamptBottle Price 75 cl $190.00 -
2019 St Véran, Le Grand Bussière, Olivier Merlin
This vineyard has a high proportion of Chardonnay Muscaté, which gives the wine its characteristic floral nose with rose petals and a touch of blood orange. As ever, this is picked early to preserve freshness, and there’s a pleasing bitterness to the finish of this otherwise generous wine. Drink 2021-2026.
{***}{region} St Véran {region} {color} White {color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}
{ratings} [] Jasper Morris MW ::87-90/100
{ratings}
{***}
2019 St Véran, Le Grand Bussière, Olivier MerlinSt Véran2019 St Véran, Le Grand Bussière, Olivier MerlinBottle Price 75 cl $268.00 -
2019 Mâcon-Vinzelles, Clos de Grand-Père La Soufrandière, Bret Brothers
This one-hectare plot, purchased by the Brets’ grandfather, lies on relatively deep soils in the heart of the village of Vinzelles – overlooked by the primary school and mairie. Conceived for early drinking, it’s expressive and harmonious from the word “go”. Its texture is gorgeous. Drink 2020-2023.
{***} {region} Mâcon{region} {color} White {color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}{***}
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2019 Pouilly-Fuissé, Sur La Roche, Olivier Merlin
When the classification arrives in 2020, this will be the highest-altitude Premier Cru in Pouilly-Fuissé: it’s over 300 metres above sea level. There’s a little more ripeness to the nose here, but the palate retains the signature freshness of the vineyard. A star performer this year, this has wonderful salinity and minerality. Drink 2024-2030.
{***}{region} Pouilly-Fuissé {region} {color} White {color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For Laying Down{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}
{ratings} [] Jasper Morris MW:: 90-92/100
[] Vinous:: 92/100
{ratings}
{***}
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2018 Puligny-Montrachet, Domaine de Montille
Most (80%) of this wine comes from a section of the Chalumeaux Premier Cru vineyard, which had to be declassified in 1975 when the previous owner illegally imported some fertile topsoil. Deep roots and soil erosion have since rectified the damage and, combined with parcels from Levron and Baudrières-Nosroy, this makes a top village Puligny. It’s precise, clean and classic, with floral top notes. Drink 2022-2029.
{***}{region}Puligny- Montrachet{region} {color} White{color}
{maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage} {ratings} {ratings} {***}2018 Puligny-Montrachet, Domaine de MontillePuligny- Montrachet2018 Puligny-Montrachet, Domaine de MontilleBottle Price 75 cl $565.00Bottle Price 150 cl $1,195.00 -
2018 St Aubin, En Remilly, 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille
The upper part of this vineyard is very well-exposed and can sometimes give exotic wines if picked too late. This, however, is perfectly balanced, with a ripe-fruit attack underpinned by stinging acidity and a chewy grip on the finish. A serious and textural wine. Drink 2022-2029.
{***}{region}St Aubin{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage} {ratings} {ratings} {***}
2018 St Aubin, En Remilly, 1er Cru, Domaine de MontilleSt Aubin2018 St Aubin, En Remilly, 1er Cru, Domaine de MontilleBottle Price 75 cl $450.00Bottle Price 150 cl $895.00 -
2019 Meursault, Les Gruyaches, Jean-Philippe Fichet
Gruyaches is tucked in under Charmes, on the Premier Cru side of the road to Puligny. The oldest vines date to 1930. It’s as good, if not better, than some Premier Cru Charmes, just above it. The site is warm, with clay over limestone, but the old vines give moderation. The wine is intense, honeyed, layered and harmonious. Drink 2022-2032.
{***}{region} Meursault {region} {color} White {color} {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}
{ratings} []Jasper Morris MW:: 90-92/100
{ratings}
{***}
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2019 St Véran, La Côte-Rotie, Olivier Merlin
This is a much bigger cuvée, yielding around thirty barrels; it’s a site Olivier knows well. As the name suggests, this is a well-exposed slope, but there’s plenty of limestone and the rootstock is late ripening. There’s some orange blossom and mandarin here, with serious acidity and a grippy, textural finish. Drink 2023-2029.
{***}{region} St Véran {region} {color} White {color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}
{ratings} [] Jasper Morris MW ::87-89/100
{ratings}
{***}
2019 St Véran, La Côte-Rotie, Olivier MerlinSt Véran2019 St Véran, La Côte-Rotie, Olivier MerlinBottle Price 75 cl $245.00 -
2019 Mâcon-la Roche Vineuse, Les Cras, Olivier Merlin
This cuvée is from old vines planted on a steep, south-facing site with high limestone content. It’s a wine which always punches above its weight, requiring a few years before approaching. Olivier shows this after the St Vérans, such is the regard in which it’s held. The 2019 is very concentrated, if a little more accessible than usual. Drink 2022-2027.
{***}{region} Mâcon{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}{***}
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2019 Puligny-Montrachet, Les Levrons, Domaine Bitouzet-Prieur
This well-sited vineyard sits immediately below Premier Cru Les Referts, close to the Meursault boundary. Coming amid the run of Meursaults in the tasting, it always stands in stark contrast: its bonier, leaner Puligny architecture is even more exaggerated. It’s very concentrated with stony, spicy notes. There’s perhaps just an atom of Meursault in its genes. Drink 2022-2030.
"An even more floral blend is composed by notes of mostly essence of pear and apple. The finer and sleeker but not richer middle weight flavors possess a beguiling texture that carries over to the citrusy, clean and bone-dry finale. This stylish effort is very Puligny in character and well-worth checking out. " 89-91pts Outstanding, Allen Meadows, Burghound
"Notes of citrus zest, warm bread, hazelnuts and white flowers introduce the 2019 Puligny-Montrachet Les Levrons, a medium to full-bodied, satiny and precise wine with a pretty core of fruit that's girdled by bright acids." 90pts William Kelley, Wine Advocate
{***}{region}Puligny-Montrachet{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}
{ratings}[] Jasper Morris MW:: 89-92/100
[] Burghound:: 89-91/100
[] Wine Advocate:: 90/100
{ratings}
{***}
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2019 Meursault, Clos du Cromin, Domaine Bitouzet-Prieur
Close to Les Corbins, this offers a very contrasting style: it has a tighter structure and quite a saline lick. The intensity of the acidity adds a sparkle to the fruit’s top notes; they’re closer to apricot, with some appealing smoky spice, allspice perhaps. The wine has great length, retaining fine composure in the context of the vintage. Drink 2022-2029.
{***} {region}Meursault{region} {color}White{color} {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}
{ratings} [] Vinous:: 90-92/100
[] Jasper Morris MW:: 89-91/100
{ratings}
{***}
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2019 Chablis, Vaillons, 1er Cru, Domaine Pinson Frères
From a 0.2-hectare site in the climat of Châtains, this wine is fermented in tank and raised in used barrels. It’s open and appealing, with ripe citrus fruits and a touch of iodine on the nose. The palate is crisp and bright; a pleasing seam of acidity brings things to a harmonious and salivating finish. Drink 2022-2028.
{***}{region}Chablis{region} {color}White{color} {maturity}laying-down{maturity}
{maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}
{ratings} [] Burghound:: 90/100 [] Jasper Morris MW:: 89-91/100 Outstanding {ratings}
{***}
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2018 Chassagne-Montrachet, Domaine de Montille
The fruit here is from two parcels totalling 0.67 hectares: Les Houillères, which bestrides the Chassagne/Puligny boundary, and Champ Derrière, just below Château de Chassagne-Montrachet. There’s plenty of texture this year; the wine’s viscous, with a hint of wild honey and a long, rich finish. Drink 2022-2028.
{***}{region}Chassagne-Montrachet{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}{***}
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2018 Monthélie, Les Duresses, 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille
This is one of the best sites in the Hautes-Côtes. It’s south-facing and stony; Sébastien’s holdings have a lot of old vines. “Complexity” isn’t a noun often associated with the Hautes-Côtes, but there’s clearly an extra dimension to this wine. It’s expressed by a sinewy structure overlaid by hints of turmeric and fulsome crunchy red fruits. Drink 2021-2027.
{***} {region} Monthélie{region} {color} Red{color}
{maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}{***}
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2018 Nuits-St Georges, Les Pruliers, 1er Cru, Domaine Jean Grivot
The deeper clay soil here has preserved an energetic, mentholated freshness, which provides an engaging counterpoint to the black cherry fruit and bitter dark chocolate notes. The attack is friendly and generous, but there is serious structure behind, and this will require patience. Drink 2025-2031.
{***}{region} Nuits-St Georges{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}{***}
-
1985 Beaune, Les Teurons, 1er Cru, Camille Giroud - Ex-Cellar 2021At Maison Camille Giroud, a diversity of terroir allows for delicious variety. From perfumed, plush reds to perfumed whites; their precise wines are made from plots all across the famed Côte d’Or – what unites each parcel is a signature precision and character.
{***} {region}Beaune{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}drink-now{maturity} {maturity-text}Drink Now{maturity-text} {vintage}1985{vintage}
{***}
-
2018 Beaune, Les Grèves, 1er Cru, Dominique Lafon
Dominique rents this from the same owner as Vignes Franches, and the vines are also 60 years old. Arguably Beaune’s best vineyard, this has an extra layer of dark, meaty richness alongside the usual bright, floral notes. Drink 2024-2031.
{***}
{region}Beaune{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity}
{maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}
{ratings} {ratings} {***}
2018 Beaune, Les Grèves, 1er Cru, Dominique LafonBeaune2018 Beaune, Les Grèves, 1er Cru, Dominique LafonBottle Price 75 cl $495.00 -
2017 Morey-St Denis, En la Rue de Vergy, Lignier-Michelot
This lieu-dit just above Clos de Tart has a very cool, mineral terroir. This saw 80 percent whole-bunch and 30 percent new oak. The nose is pretty, with a delicate lift and an energy which flows through to the palate. Pleasant, medium-weight fruit is underpinned by a cool, chalky grip from the limestone soil. Drink 2020-2024.
{***} {region}Morey-St Denis{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage}
{***}
2017 Morey-St Denis, En la Rue de Vergy, Lignier-MichelotMorey-St Denis2017 Morey-St Denis, En la Rue de Vergy, Lignier-MichelotBottle Price 75 cl $445.00Was $475.00 -
2018 Gevrey-Chambertin, Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Sérafin Père & Fils
The vines for this cuvée are 70 years old on average, with some nudging 100 years. The parcels are neighbours to the Grands and Premiers Crus of Griottes, Petite Chapelle, Crais and Champeaux. There is a step up in concentration versus the regular bottling, with greater detail and complexity, and a lovely salivating freshness to finish. Drink 2024-2030.
{***} {region}Gevrey-Chambertin{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text}
{vintage}2018{vintage}
{***}
-
2018 Volnay, En Champans, 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille
Brian was limited to 50% whole-bunch here; it would have been more, but there was no space in the tank. Champans can tend towards the rustic and tannic, and Brian softens the edges to give a softer, gentler and more delicate expression with silky tannins and lovely, perfumed lift. Drink 2023-2029.
{***}{region} Volnay {region} {color} Red {color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage} {ratings} {ratings}{***}
-
2018 Pommard, Les Pézerolles, 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille
As Pommards go, Les Pézerolles is rather Volnaysien in style, thanks to its limestone soils, which give a more elegant and delicate expression. The fruit here is most definitely red and this is pretty, perfumed and charming, but with a serious, chalky limestone structure. Drink 2024-2032.
{***}{region}Pommard{region} {color} Red{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage} {ratings} {***}
-
2017 Gevrey-Chambertin, Domaine Sylvie Esmonin
This is a notably ripe 2017 with its dark fruit aromas that include cassis, plum and newly turned earth. The vibrant, intense and solidly concentrated medium weight flavors exude a discreet minerality onto the complex and persistent bitter cherry pit-inflected finish that possesses just enough rusticity to warrant mentioning. Drink 2025+
{***} {region}Gevrey-Chambertin{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage}
{ratings} [] Burghound:: 89/100
{ratings}
{***}
-
2010 Charmes-Chambertin, Grand Cru, Olivier Bernstein
There are two suppliers for this wine, one each located in Charmes and Mazoyères-Chambertin. The nose for this Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru is plump and open, but attractively fresh. The stems show a bit, more structure than usual, improving the overall structure of the wine. Another impressively long finish.
{***}{region} Gevrey-Chambertin {region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2010{vintage}
{ratings} []Burghound:: 91-94/100
[]Jancis Robinson:: 17/20
{ratings}
{***}
-
2011 Chambertin, Clos de Bèze, Grand Cru, Olivier Bernstein
Rich full purple. An explosive nose of weight and majesty, everything you would hope for. Chassin barrel shows again, marvellous mid palate fruit, then a wonderful long finish based around a complex basket of fruit, superb texture, seamless, and enormously long. Again there is a wonderful, fresh undercurrent which comes from picking at the right time. Bravo. Throughout this wine shows a beautiful grain of finesse, with silky tannins all the way through.
Jasper Morris MW{***}{region} Gevrey-Chambertin {region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2011{vintage}
{ratings} []Burghound:: 93-96/100
{ratings}
{***}
-
2018 Clos de Vougeot, Grand Cru, Domaine de la Vougeraie
{***}{region} Vougeot {region} {color} Red {color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage} {ratings} {ratings}{***}
-
2018 Puligny-Montrachet, Les Chalumeaux, 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille
Some 80% of de Montille's 2018 Puligny-Montrachet Village consists of declassified premier cru Les Chalumeaux, which may account for why it's so good this year. Revealing notes of citrus oil, white flowers, fresh pastry and beeswax, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and succulent, combining charming fruit with mineral nuance to persuasive effect. (89 - 91 points, The Wine Advocate, 13th February 2020)
{***}{region}Puligny-Montrachet{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}{***}
-
2019 Meursault, Jean-Philippe Fichet
The ingredients here are some of Meursault’s best village vineyards. Chaumes de Narvaux is elegant and mineral, Clous adds finesse, Limouzin is nestled among the Premiers Crus, giving depth and richness, while Criots and Crotots add textbook buttery notes. Jean-Philippe works his magic and makes one of the best examples at this level, showing creamy and crystallised fruits. Drink 2022-2030.
{***}{region} Meursault {region} {color} White {color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}
{ratings} [] Jasper Morris MW:: 88-91/100
{ratings}
{***}
2019 Meursault, Jean-Philippe FichetMeursault2019 Meursault, Jean-Philippe FichetBottle Price 75 cl $468.00 -
2018 St Aubin, Derrière la Tour, 1er Cru, Domaine Jean-Claude Bachelet
The 2018 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière La Tour is showing nicely, mingling aromas of cherries and red berries with hints of potpourri and spices. Medium to full-bodied, bright and fleshy, the combination of a warm vintage and a cooler, higher-altitude site is felicitous.
{***}{region}St Aubin{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}
{ratings} [] Wine Advocate:: 90/100
{ratings}
{***}
-
2019 Chablis, Fourchaume, 1er Cru, Le Domaine d'Henri
Half these vines were planted in 1964, the rest in ’99. The younger vines provide fruit and energy, the older density and concentration. The nose is restrained, showing green apple; the palate is generous without falling into yellow fruit. The texture is luxurious, with a stinging acidity to the finish. There’s power and freshness, with a lingering salinity. Drink 2022-2028.
{***}{region}Chablis{region} {color}White{color} {maturity}laying-down{maturity}
{maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}
{ratings} [] Jasper Morris MW:: 89-92/100 {ratings}
{***}
-
2019 Chablis, Fourchaume, 1er Cru, Domaine Gérard Duplessis
Old vines. Pale to mid yellow, with a warm spicy nose, not, so typical of Fourchaume, soft and fleshy behind, then brightens up at the finish. Slight caramel note at the moment, which should disappear. - Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy
{***}{region}Chablis{region} {color}White{color} {maturity}laying-down{maturity}
{maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}
{ratings} [] Jasper Morris MW:: 89-92/100 {ratings}
{***}
-
2018 Meursault, Le Tesson, Jean-Philippe Fichet
This centrally placed, steeply sloping vineyard is probably the pick of the Meursault village lieux-dits. Jean-Philippe has just under one hectare of vines planted in 1949, ’65 and ’76. Its easterly exposition gives a more mineral style, with an intense lift of fruit on the finish. Drink 2022-2029.
{***}{region} Meursault {region} {color} White {color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}
{ratings}
{ratings}
{***}
2018 Meursault, Le Tesson, Jean-Philippe FichetMeursault2018 Meursault, Le Tesson, Jean-Philippe FichetBottle Price 75 cl $595.00 -
2017 Beaune, Les Pertuisots, 1er Cru, Jean-Yves Devevey
With subtle perfume, this is rather lovely, but not glossy, as the vineyard lies towards Pommard so is more structured than most. Last year’s frosts were heavy here and have meant some retraining of damaged vines, reducing the normal yield by 40 percent, but they should be back in commission by the 2019 vintage. Drink 2020-2024.
{***}
{region}Beaune{region}
{color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage}
{ratings} {ratings} {***}
-
2012 Nuits-St Georges, Les Vignes Rondes, 1er Cru, Domaine Confuron-Cotétidot
A distinctly floral nose of spice, plum and earth introduces relatively refined medium-bodied flavors that display a touch of wood on the solidly complex, well-balanced and persistent finish. As is typically the case this is an elegant Nuits but with the structure to reward longer-term cellaring. - Allen Meadows, Burghound
{***}{region} Nuits-St Georges {region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2012{vintage}
{ratings} [] Burghound:: 89-92/100
{ratings}
{***}
-
2002 Clos des Lambrays, Grand Cru, Domaine des Lambrays
The 2002 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru is a great success for retired winemaker Thierry Brouin. Redcurrants and cranberry on the nose, hints of allspice and tomato vine, all very well defined and conveying a sense of "coolness". The palate is very well balanced, a little rustic but with good weight, gently building towards a discrete ferrous finish that feels long and tender. This Grand Cru could be up and down in this period...this was definitely one of their finest moments. 5/2019, Vinous
{***} {region}Morey-St Denis{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text} {vintage}2002{vintage}
{ratings} [] Vinous:: 94/100
[] Burghound:: 92/100
{ratings}
{***}
-
2010 Clos des Lambrays, Grand Cru, Domaine des Lambrays
Very heady, fine, ripe, graceful fruit dominates here, with the stems beautifully integrated. A refreshing touch of acidity at the back of the palate enhances the experience of this brilliant wine which finishes in a state of grace and elegance.
Jasper Morris MWMaintaining his reputation as being one of the early pickers, Thierry Brouin, the experienced régisseur of Domaine des Lambrays, started on 22nd September in fine weather. He loves this vintage and with good reason. The Clos des Lambrays in particular is a sublime wine. But as with most domaines in 2010, yields are significantly down.
{***} {region}Morey-St Denis{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text} {vintage}2010{vintage}
{ratings} [] Wine Advocate :: 94/100{ratings}
{***}
-
2018 Vosne-Romanée, Domaine d'Eugénie
Moderate wood influence surrounds the overtly spiced and ripe plum, dark currant and violet scents. The attractively textured, rich and sappy medium weight flavors possess very good depth on the lengthy finish where a touch of wood appears. This is quite good for its level and is a wine that should drink well on the younger side if that's your preference. - Allen Meadows, Burghound
{***}{region}Vosne-Romanée{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage} {ratings} [] Burghound:: 89-91/100
[] Vinous:: 88-90/100
{ratings}{***}
2018 Vosne-Romanée, Domaine d'EugénieVosne-Romanée2018 Vosne-Romanée, Domaine d'EugénieBottle Price 75 cl $775.00 -
2017 Auxey-Duresses, 1er Cru, Domaine Roulot
Roulot's only premier cru bottling of red grapes, the Auxey is perfect for those who enjoy an ethereal, mineral-driven style of Pinot Noir. The nose presents a harmonious medley of dark berries and spice, while the palate echoes the taut, crystalline character of the domaine's white wines. A chalky core underpins this red that will drink beautifully for at least the next decade.
{***} {region} Auxey-Duresses{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage}{***}
2017 Auxey-Duresses, 1er Cru, Domaine RoulotAuxey-Duresses2017 Auxey-Duresses, 1er Cru, Domaine RoulotBottle Price 75 cl $795.00 -
2016 Charmes-Chambertin, Grand Cru, Lucien Le Moine
A very pretty and airy nose features notes of red cherry, raspberry and spice with a shading of soft wood and earth. On the palate though this is not nearly as concentrated though there is still perfectly good concentration and a sleek muscularity on the vibrant, detailed and lingering finish. While this is by no means light, it is a Charmes built more along the lines of finesse than power. Drink 2028+
Burghound (Apr 2018){***}{region} Gevrey-Chambertin {region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2016{vintage}
{ratings}
[] Burghound:: 91-94/100
{ratings}
{***}
-
2018 Nuits-St Georges, Roncière, 1er Cru, Domaine Jean Grivot
In Etienne’s hands Roncière is always an elegant and red-fruited expression of Nuits, even in a warm vintage such as 2018. Red fruit abounds on the caressing palate, while the finish is spicy and refreshing, with a cooling sage-mint feel. Drink 2024-2030.
{***}{region} Nuits-St Georges{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}{***}
-
2004 Nuits-St Georges, Les Saint-Georges, 1er Cru, Domaine Faiveley
Consistently one of the highest quality vineyards in Nuits, producing wines deep in colour and fruit. With Faiveley providing a taut structure for ageing.
{***}{region} Nuits-St Georges {region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2004{vintage}
{ratings}
{ratings}
{***}
-
2017 Nuits-St Georges, Clos Saint-Marc, 1er Cru, Domaine Michèle & Patrice Rion
This vineyard sits across the road from the house, with quite deep (two metres) topsoil over marne. Very typically Nuits, there’s plenty of black fruit and sweet spice on the nose, while the palate offers red and black cherry, and some floral touches. Weighty, dense and concentrated with a rocky, limestone texture to the tannins; it’s deep, dense, complex and age-worthy. Drink 2023-2030.
{***}{region} Nuits-St Georges {region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage}{***}
-
2017 Morey-St Denis, Les Chenevery, 1er Cru, Lignier-Michelot
Discreet but not invisible wood and menthol influences set off the much riper aromas of cassis, plum, black raspberry and game. There is excellent intensity to the mineral-driven and overtly powerful middle weight plus flavors that offer excellent depth and persistence on the firmly structured finale. This is really quite good and worth checking out provided you cellar it for at least 5 to 7 years first. 93 Points - Burghound
{***} {region}Morey-St Denis{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage}
{ratings} [] Burghound:: 93/100
{ratings}
{***}
-
2018 Beaune, Les Greves, 1er Cru Domaine de Montille
Here there is a bit more wood influence on the distinctly earthy and quite floral aromas of dark currant poach plum and a softly spicy top note. The sleeker if not quite as dense medium-bodied flavors possess focused power that really builds as the dusty and serious finish sits on the palate. Excellent. Drink starting 2033. - Burghound
{***} {region}Beaune{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}
{ratings} []Burghound:: 91-93/100
[]Wine Advocate:: 91-93/100
[]Vinous:: 91-93/100
[]Jasper Morris:: 92-95/100
{ratings}
{***}
-
2019 Chambolle-Musigny, Les Baudes, 1er Cru, Domaine Sérafin Père & Fils
This is from the northern end of Chambolle, immediately under Bonnes Mares, with which it shares some personality: this is a stronger style of Chambolle. There’s plenty of intent about the wine, and it has the shoulders to carry it off. A forthright and assertive wine, the slightly ferric tannins play a key role, underpinned by spicy oak. Drink 2027-2038.
{***} {region}Chambolle-Musigny{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text}
{vintage}2017{vintage}
{ratings} {ratings}
{***}
-
2018 Morey-St Denis, Vieilles Vignes, Lignier-Michelot
This is from Très Girard, Les Cognées and the village section of Chenevery, with the oldest vines aged 80 years. There is deeper clay here and the wine is in a more generous style for Morey. It’s very plush in 2018, but given dimension by a spicy, chunky finish. Drink 2022-2026.
{***} {region}Morey-St Denis{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}
{ratings}
{ratings}
{***}
-
2018 Clos de Vougeot, Grand Cru, Domaine de Montille
Like the Aux Thorey the nose is mildly reduced but the underlying fruit seems ripe. There is very good energy to the moderately concentrated flavors that also possess an attractive mid-palate mouthfeel before terminating in a youthfully austere and refreshingly saline-inflected finish. Drink 2033+, Burghound (Apr 2020)
{***}{region} Burgundy {region} {color} Red {color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage} {ratings}
[] Vinous:: 91-93/100
[] Burghound:: 91-94/100{ratings}{***}
-
2018 Morey-St Denis, Domaine des Lambrays
This is sourced from the domaine’s vineyards on the higher slope, Les Larrets above Lambrays and En la Rue de Vergy above Clos de Tart. With everything de-stemmed, the wine is very perfumed, floral and intense, lifted by evident limestone minerality. No Grand Cru fruit was included this year, nor will there be in the future, says Jacques. Drink 2022-2028.
{***} {region}Morey-St Denis{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}
{ratings}
{ratings}
{***}
2018 Morey-St Denis, Domaine des LambraysMorey-St Denis2018 Morey-St Denis, Domaine des LambraysBottle Price 75 cl $750.00 -
2017 Pommard, Les Rugiens-bas, 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille
Firm reduction knocks down the underlying fruit at present. There is more size and power to the equally mineral-driven flavors that aren't especially dense, though neither are they dilute, while offering outstanding depth and persistence on the notably firm finale. Patience suggested. Drink 2034+, Burghound (Apr 2019)
{***}{region}Pommard{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage}
{ratings}
[] Burghound:: 91-94/100
{ratings}
{***}
-
2017 Gevrey-Chambertin, Le Fonteny, 1er Cru, Dom. Sérafin Père & FilsThis is just above Corbeaux but further towards the Combe de Lavaux, thus north-facing, although it gets sun all day. The topsoil is especially feeble and the underlying rock is very hard. Unsurprising then that the wine should offer both ripeness and precision, and very successfully. Drink 2023-2028.
The harvest was done early and quickly here, starting on 6th September and finished by 12th. Karine Sérafin explained that the estate was harvesting earlier than before, to keep more freshness in the wines, and also working more with leaf coverage. The old vines negated any need to green harvest and yields are up by only 20 percent from 2016, but otherwise Karine and her cousin Frédérique are intent on preserving the individuality of Christian Sérafin’s style for vins de garde, with 100 percent new oak for everything upwards from the Gevrey Vieilles Vignes.{***} {region}Gevrey-Chambertin{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text}
{vintage}2017{vintage}
{***}
-
2017 Morey-St Denis, Les Millandes, 1er Cru, Dom. Sérafin Père & Fils
Sérafin has two plots in this well-regarded Premier Cru, one with 60-year-old vines, the other closer to 40 years old. The purity and delicacy of the vineyard is evident and, given the vineyard’s proximity to both Clos de la Roche and Clos St Denis, there is much elegance in evidence too. Drink 2022-2027.
The harvest was done early and quickly here, starting on 6th September and finished by 12th. Karine Sérafin explained that the estate was harvesting earlier than before, to keep more freshness in the wines, and also working more with leaf coverage. The old vines negated any need to green harvest and yields are up by only 20 percent from 2016, but otherwise Karine and her cousin Frédérique are intent on preserving the individuality of Christian Sérafin’s style for vins de garde, with 100 percent new oak for everything upwards from the Gevrey Vieilles Vignes.{***} {region}Morey-St Denis{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage}
{ratings} [] Wine Advocate:: 89-91+/100
{ratings}
{***}
-
2018 Meursault, Perrières, 1er Cru, Domaine Henri Germain & Fils
Domaine Henri Germain is run by Henri's son, Jean-François Germain, who continues to employ traditional organic farming and winemaking. Yields are kept very low and vineyard work is done by hand, and in the winery Jean-François is extremely minimalist. Wines never see more than 20-30% new oak and are almost always bottled unfined and unfiltered. His wines display an incredible richness, complexity, character and depth of flavor that is unequaled in almost all of the region.
{***}{region}Meursault{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}{***}
-
2014 Chambertin Clos De Bèze, Grand Cru, Domaine Gerard Raphet
An attractively spicy and beautifully layered nose offers up ripe aromas of red berry liqueur, violets, game and warm earth. There is good richness but also good detail to the vibrant middle weight flavors that possess good but not better mid-palate density before culminating in a firm, balanced and admirably long finish where a touch of youthful asperity appears. Note that this beguilingly and elegant wine is on the lighter side for a Clos de Bèze though it's one that should be approachable on the younger side but age well too over the medium-term. Drink 2024+, Burghound (Jan 2017)
{***}{region} Gevrey-Chambertin {region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For Laying Down{maturity-text} {vintage}2014{vintage}
{ratings} []Burghound:: 92/100
{ratings}
{***}
-
2013 Clos-St Denis, Grand Cru, Domaine Gagey, Louis Jadot
A graceful tint of pale purple. Floral, with appealing sweet red fruit, clearly some concentration to the cherry and raspberry fruit, while there is clearly much more to emerge later on.
Jasper Morris MW - Wine Buyer{***}{region}Morey-St Denis{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2013{vintage}{***}
-
2017 Volnay, Les Taillepieds, 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille
As Pommards go, Les Pézerolles is rather Volnaysien in style, thanks to its limestone soils which give a more elegant and delicate expression. The fruit here is most definitely red and while there is some structure it is chalkier than a typical Pommard, giving a more accessible and approachable style. Drink 2022-2028.
Winemaker Brian Sieve draws comparisons between the white wines of 2017 and 2014, explaining that the texture, weight and freshness are very similar in both years, although 2017 has perhaps a little more fruit ripeness, along with excellent tension and persistence. He believes that this same freshness and brightness in the reds will provide ageing capacity, pointing out that they worked hard to restrict the yield of Pinot Noir to achieve riper grapes. Overall slightly less whole-bunch fermentation was used as Brian felt the stems and fruit were not as ripe as in richer vintages.{***}{region}Pommard{region} {color} Red{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage} {ratings} {***}
-
2018 Mazis-Chambertin, Grand Cru, Domaine Faiveley
Once again there is just enough wood to point out along with hints of menthol, anise and the sauvage adding breadth to the ripe dark currant scents. As is usually the case, the larger-scaled flavors possess more size and weight if not the same refinement or minerality as the Latricières where the supporting tannins coat the palate on the grippy, serious and youthfully austere finale. This is very definitely and 'buy and forget it somewhere deep in the cellar' wine. Burghound
{***}{region}Gevrey-Chambertin{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage} {ratings} []Burghound:: 92-95/100
[]Wine Advocate:: 92-94/100
{ratings}{***}
-
2017 Pommard, Clos des Epeneaux, 1er Cru Domaine du Comte Armand
As usual, older and younger vines are harvested and vinified separately. Tasted apart, the junior wine is lush and very driven by red fruit, the senior partner principally shows the density of old vines. Essayed in a 55-45 young-to-old-vine blend, the dark sweet fruit of the old vines is to the fore but kept mobile by the energy of the young vines. A very impressive double act. Drink 2025-2033.
{***}{region}Pommard{region} {color} Red{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For Laying Down{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage} {ratings} [] The Wine Advocate:: 92-94/100{ratings} {***}
-
2017 Gevrey-Chambertin, Coeur du Roy, Très Vielles Vignes, Domaine Dugat-Py
Once again the aromatic expression is quite reserved while being filled with floral nuances that add a touch of elegance to the cool and pure essence of red currant, earth and herbal tea scents. There is excellent intensity to the sleek and mineral-inflected medium weight flavors that possess fine depth and persistence on the very firmly structured finish. Drink 2029+. Burghound (Jan 2020)
{***}{region} Gevrey-Chambertin{region} {color} Red{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For Laying Down{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage}
{ratings} [] Vinous:: 90-92/100
[] Burghound:: 90/100
{ratings}
{***}
-
2016 Chevalier-Montrachet, Grand Cru, Château de Puligny-Montrachet (Magnum)
The estate has nearly a quarter of a hectare here, but suffered a 50 percent loss in 2016. Marvellously intense, this has an ethereal, cool, stone component – a classic character of this vineyard, with a lick of exotic nectarine on the finish. It was matured equally in a mixture of standard and demis, and with more and longer lees contact than usual, to feed the wine’s textural volume. It will need patience. Drink 2022-2032.
{***}{region}Puligny-Montrachet{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text} {vintage}2016{vintage}{***}
-
2018 Clos Vougeot, Le Petit Maupertuis, Grand Cru, Benjamin Leroux
Having created a name for himself as régisseur (general manager) of Domaine du Comte Armand in Pommard, Benjamin Leroux established, with English backing, a small négociant business based in Beaune since 2007. The range is confined to the Côte d’Or, from Chassagne-Montrachet to Gevrey-Chambertin, with the intention of developing farming contracts or indeed purchasing vineyards in the future.
The possibilities are very exciting for this exceptionally talented vigneron. Benjamin is a master at delivering purity of fruit alongside a seamless texture in his wines which have only the subtlest influence of oak.{***}{region} Vougeot {region} {color} Red {color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage} {ratings} {ratings}{***}
-
2018 Puligny-Montrachet, Le Cailleret, 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille (Magnum)
A wine which merits its name, this is stony and flinty on the nose, with smoky reduction running the length of the wine. The palate is salty, precise and tangy, with fine, chiselled detail and a pulpy richness to the finish. Drink 2025-2032.
{***}{region}Puligny-Montrachet{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}{***}
-
2018 Chambertin, Clos de Bèze, Grand Cru, Domaine Faiveley
An even spicier and wonderfully expansive nose reflects notes of anise, clove, lavender and violet that suffuse the red and dark pinot fruit scents. The mouthfeel of the big-bodied flavors possess a lovely sense of underlying tension along with good detail and a subtle minerality on the equally firm but somewhat less austere finale. This is slightly more complete and a wine of class and grace though make no mistake, if you wish to see it at its peak, a good deal of patience is advised. Burghound (Jan 2020)
{***}{region} Gevrey-Chambertin {region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For Laying Down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}
{ratings} []Burghound:: 93-96/100
[]Wine Advocate:: 94-96/100
{ratings}
{***}
-
2017 Clos de Vougeot, Grand Cru, Domaine de la Vougeraie (Magnum)
{***}{region} Vougeot {region} {color} Red {color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage} {ratings} {ratings}{***}
-
2018 Nuits-St Georges, 1er Cru, Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Prieuré Roch
Selectively picked from the oldest vines of Clos des Corvées (the name “Clos des Corvées” is reserved exclusively for the first selective pick of “millerandés” grapes), a wine of enormous body and depth.
{***}{region} Nuits-St Georges{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}{***}
-
2018 Hautes Côtes de Beaune, La Dalignère, Sebastien Magnien
Made from the fruit of a single vineyard (La Dalignère), this is inherently richer and more powerful than Sébastien's other Hautes-Côtes wines and he therefore chooses to raise it in barrel, rather than a combination of barrel and tank. The nose combines lifted floral and berry notes with an engaging earthy, spicy character. It has great concentration and depth of fruit on the palate, so try it with a hearty meat casserole.
{***} {region} Burgundy{region} {color} Red{color}
{maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}{***}
-
2019 Bourgogne-Hautes Côtes de Nuits, Les Dames Huguettes, Patrice & Maxime Rion
This important vineyard in the Hautes-Côtes sits above the main vineyards of Nuits-St Georges. The Rions have access to fruit from vines planted at high density, which controls yield and improves quality. This has a very pretty redcurrant bouquet, with some finesse and good weight on the palate, showing none of the skinniness sometimes found in the Hautes-Côtes. Drink 2021-2027.
{***}{region} Burgundy {region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage}{***}
-
2019 St Véran, En Crèches, Olivier Merlin
This is a small parcel which provides a maximum of 10 barrels per year. Olivier loves this site’s old vines and steep slope. It’s a seductive and silky expression of St Véran, with a pleasing acidity behind. It’s finely balanced. Drink 2022-2028.
{***}{region} St Véran {region} {color} White {color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}{***}
2019 St Véran, En Crèches, Olivier MerlinSt Véran2019 St Véran, En Crèches, Olivier MerlinBottle Price 75 cl $205.00 -
2019 Monthélie Blanc, Sous Le Cellier, Jean-Philippe Fichet
This is one of the best sites in the Hautes-Côtes. It’s south-facing and stony; Sébastien’s holdings have a lot of old vines. “Complexity” isn’t a noun often associated with the Hautes-Côtes, but there’s clearly an extra dimension to this wine. It’s expressed by a sinewy structure overlaid by hints of turmeric and fulsome crunchy red fruits. Drink 2021-2027.
{***} {region} Monthélie{region} {color} Red{color}
{maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}{***}
-
2019 Meursault, Santenots, 1er Cru, Domaine Bitouzet-Prieur
This is from the upper Les Blancs section, near Volnay; much of this vineyard is planted to Pinot Noir. This section will be 50 years old next year, and the vines are shy-bearing and small-berried. There are just three barrels, but it’s impressive: intensely ripe but not overblown, the red wine terroir adding a suggestion of grilled bacon. Drink 2024-2035.
{***} {region}Meursault{region} {color}White{color} {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}
{ratings} [] Vinous:: 88-90/100
[] Jasper Morris MW:: 91-93/100
{ratings}
{***}
-
2005 Vosne-Romanée, Les Suchots, 1er Cru, Lucien Le Moine
A potent mix of wood spice, Vosne spice and pain grillé introduces rich, full, sweet and sleekly muscled flavors that are impressively scaled and powerful on the dusty, ripe and stunningly long finish. This really stains the palate and the intensity is almost painful yet there is impeccable balance. One to cellar.
{***}{region}Vosne-Romanée{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2005{vintage} {ratings} [] Allen Meadows:: 94/100 {ratings}{***}
-
2017 Puligny-Montrachet, Les Combettes, 1er Cru, Domaine Jadot
{***}{region} Puligny-Montrachet {region} {color} White {color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage} {ratings} [] Wine Advocate:: 91-93/100
{ratings}{***}
-
2018 Nuits-St Georges, Les St Juliens, Domaine de Montille
The 2017 Nuits Saint-Georges Aux Julien 1er Cru includes one-third whole cluster fruit with 20% new oak. This has a lifted bouquet, very perfumed and well defined with vivid red and black fruit. The palate is well balanced with crisp tannin, good backbone, with a slightly chewiness towards the finish. Give this a three to five years once in bottle. Fine.
Drink 2022-2030{***}{region} Nuits-St Georges{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}
{ratings} [] Vinous:: 89-91/100
[] Burghound:: 89/100
[] Jancis Robinson :: 17/20
{ratings}
{***}
-
2019 Meursault, Les Grands Charrons, Pierre Boisson
This Meursault is made from Chardonnay cultivated on the small plot called Les Grands Charrons. Les Grands Charrons is located on a small straight road and presents a limestone nature and a reddening of its land more intense depending on the slope.
{***}{region} Meursault {region} {color} White {color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}
{ratings}
{ratings}
{***}
2019 Meursault, Les Grands Charrons, Pierre BoissonMeursault2019 Meursault, Les Grands Charrons, Pierre BoissonBottle Price 75 cl $1,350.00 -
2018 Meursault, Limozin, Domaine Henri Germain & Fils
Outstanding. Top Value. A slightly riper nose offers up aromas of white peach, lemongrass, hazelnut and spice hints that are in keeping with the equally ripe, round and nicely rich medium-bodied flavors that aren't quite as refined, all wrapped in a delicious and more complex finish. In a word, excellent. -Allen Meadows, Burghound
{***}{region}Meursault{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}
{ratings} [] The Wine Advocate:: 90-92/100
[] Burghound:: 89-92/100
{ratings}
{***}
-
2018 Puligny Montrachet, Les Folatières, 1er cru, Olivier Leflaive
There is a mildly exotic character present on the petrol-inflected white and yellow orchard fruit aromas, and in particularly white peach, that are trimmed in just enough wood to notice. The succulent, rich and relatively full-bodied flavors possess a caressing mouthfeel while delivering impressive length where a subtle bead of minerality adds a sense of lift. *Burghound Sweet Spot Outstanding Top Value!" - Burghound
{***}{region}Puligny-Montrachet{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}
{ratings}[] Burghound:: 90-93/100
[] Wine Spectator:: 93/100
[] Decanter:: 95/100
{ratings}
{***}
-
2017 Volnay, Frémiets, 1er Cru, Domaine du Comte ArmandThis is beautifully heady and perfumed. Some parcels are nearly 90 years old, and others 35 years old, with the crop a healthy 49.6hl/ha. Again, there is the impression of purity, sensuality and structure, aided in part by the contiguity of Pommard-Jarolières. Drink 2022-2028.
Paul Zinetti was realistic yet confident in the quality of his 2017s. Such an early harvest, which started in Volnay Frémiets on 3rd September and ended in Auxey on 11th September, provided new challenges which Paul addressed creatively and sympathetically. The wines were fruity and direct but he found that colour and structure were slow to come, so he kept the wine on skins for a week or more after fermentation. There is less whole-bunch this year as the stems weren’t always fully ripe, but his de-stemmer preserves a lot of whole berries anyway. He will bottle all the reds before Christmas without filtration but he will trial some fining to round out the tannins.
{***} {region}Volnay{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage}
{ratings} [] Wine Advocate: 89-91/100{
ratings
}
{***}
-
2019 Bourgogne Rouge, Les Cras, Olivier Merlin
This is from young vines from cuttings of old Pinot Fin – taken from the Clos des Epeneaux around 20 years ago – planted on a steep, south-facing limestone slope. With 50% whole bunches, there’s a gorgeous fragrant and floral nose, and a twist of herbal freshness on the palate. It’s stylish yet crunchy, with pretty red berry fruits. Drink 2022-2030.
{***} {region}Burgundy{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}
{ratings} {***}
2019 Bourgogne Rouge, Les Cras, Olivier MerlinBurgundy2019 Bourgogne Rouge, Les Cras, Olivier MerlinBottle Price 75cl $208.00 -
2018 Vosne-Romanée, La Combe Brûlée, Domaine Bruno Clavelier
One of the most beautiful vineyards of Terroir, with its more than 85 years of life, lives vibrant in the contrast between the freshness of the winds of the Combe and the heat held by the sunny pebbles of the ground.
{***} {region}Vosne-Romanée{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For Laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}
{ratings}
{ratings}
{***}
-
2018 Vosne-Romanée, Les Hautes Maizières, Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Bruno Clavelier
This old vines cuvée comes from a tiny parcel of vines nearly 79 years in age that were planted by Massale Selection. The sub-soil here is chalk but there's limestone and clay up above. This is a structured red Burgundy that's powerful and will benefit from age. The majority of the domaine's vines are old vines (Massale) planted in the 1930s and 40s. Naturally the yields are miniscule for this reason making this wine all the more rare.
{***} {region}Vosne-Romanée{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}
{ratings}
{ratings}
{***}
-
2010 Volnay, Les Taillepieds, 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille
Vinification with the stems gives these wines a notable character on the nose, with floral, spice and rose petals all coming to the fore, and an impressive density on the palate. This is a very graceful wine, and the finish shows a touch of tannin to maintain structure.
Jasper Morris MWDomaine de Montille picked between the 18th and 26th September in 2010. The red wines, made by American Brian Sieve (one of two winemakers in this catalogue born in Indianapolis!) under the surveillance of Etienne de Montille, now show a consistency of style and quality that perhaps was not entirely there a few years ago. The whites are the responsibility of Etienne’s sister Alix and maintain the class of recent times. Together they have produced a fine result in 2010.
{***}{region}Pommard{region} {color} Red{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2010{vintage} {ratings} [] The Wine Advocate:: 91-93/100 {***}
-
2018 Nuits-St Georges, Aux Cras, 1er Cru, Domaine Bruno Clavelier
The vine comes from a great gene pool. It is regular and has many millerandage berries. The wine has the typical structure of Nuits-Saint-Georges, but the tannins are elegant and reflect the near Vosne-Romanée. The Nuits Saint-Georges 1er Cru Aux Cras is tasty and dynamic, always with a good balance. The flesh, very present, with notes of juicy black fruit (blackberries, blueberries, blackcurrants) is enriched with floral nuances (elder, heather) and spicy.
{***}{region} Nuits-St Georges {region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}{***}
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2018 Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Corbeaux, 1er Cru, Domaine Bruno Clavelier
A cool site giving low pH wines (higher acidity). Mid purple in colour with no great depth, an elegant light red fruit nose, strict, fresh raspberry and alpine strawberry. - Jasper Morris MW
{***}{region}Gevrey-Chambertin{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage} {ratings} [] Jasper Morris :: 89-93/100 {ratings}{***}
-
2019 Puligny-Montrachet, Les Folatières, 1er Cru, Château de Puligny-Montrachet
Pale primrose. Lovely dense aromatic nose, very good weight of full, more white than yellow, fruit, with waves of flavour across the palate. I love the balance of this wine albeit in its richer style, with a very satisfying long finish.
Jasper Morris MW, insideburgundy.com (December 2020){***}{region}Puligny-Montrachet{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}
{ratings}[] Vinous:: 92-94/100
[] Jasper Morris MW:: 92-95/100
{ratings}
{***}
-
2019 Puligny-Montrachet, Sous le Puits, 1er Cru, Jean-Claude Bachelet & Fils
This is an opulent, broad-shouldered expression of Puligny, with a generous lick of toasty oak. The style of this wine initially seems at odds with the nature of the vineyard, then a wave of fresh acidity serves notice that Sous le Puits, above Blagny, is Puligny’s highest Premier Cru. Drink 2024-2028.
{***}{region}Chassagne-Montrachet{region} {color} White {color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}{***}
-
2019 Meursault, Les Charmes-Dessus, 1er Cru, Benjamin Leroux
In Meursault’s golden rectangle, wines reach their peak in the higher (Dessus) parts of Charmes and Genevrières and the lower (Dessous) section of Perrières. This is Ben’s second vintage here; the wine shows some of the vineyard’s typical lime blossom before its back straightens and it becomes a serious proposition. Drink 2024-2036.
{***}{region}Meursault{region} {color}White{color} {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}
{ratings} [] Jasper Morris MW:: 92-94/100
[] Jancis Robinson MW:: 17/20
{ratings}
{***}
-
2016 Vosne-Romanée, Aux Malconsorts, Christiane, 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille
This truly special wine is named after Etienne and Alix de Montille’s mother. It’s made from 0.49 hectares of vines which are now classified as Malconsorts but separated from the main domaine holding by a path – nestled against the north and west edges of La Tâche. While it has never been classified as part of the famous Grand Cru, it has a unique character which sets it apart. And the vines are older, giving a more concentrated expression. This is spicier and more darkly fruited than its partner, with a firmer tannic structure, greater concentration and more ageing potential. The wine is made with two-thirds whole-cluster and around 65% new oak. Drink 2024-2050.
{***}{region}Vosne-Romanée{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2016{vintage} {ratings} {ratings}{***}
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2008 Chablis, La Forest, 1er Cru, Vincent Dauvissat
Rene Dauvissats 2008 Chablis La Forest achieves a remarkably vibrant sense of interplay and complexity characteristic both for its vintage and for this cuvee at its best. Scents of iris, white truffle, crushed chalk, saline-alkaline ocean breeze, tart plum, white peach and grapefruit all have their counterparts in a palate performance of riveting interactivity and prodigious yet continually fascinating length. There is a firm feel, brightness, and in the end a tendency for its mineral aspects to slightly dominate this show that result in a sparer impression than the corresponding 2007, something of a reversal of these vintages normal roles. Once again, here is an exceptional Chablis premier cru that should be worth following for a dozen or more years.
David Schildknecht - 31/10/2010{***}{region}Chablis{region} {color}White{color} {maturity}drink-now{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text} {vintage}2008{vintage}
{ratings} [] Wine Advocate:: 94/100 {ratings}
{***}
2008 Chablis, La Forest, 1er Cru, Vincent DauvissatChablis2008 Chablis, La Forest, 1er Cru, Vincent DauvissatBottle Price 75 cl $1,875.00 -
2018 Corton-Charlemagne, Grand Cru, Méo-Camuzet Frère & Soeurs
Five barrels of this were made in 2018. Most of the fruit comes from the cooler western side of the hill in Pernand-Vergelesses. This is classically proportioned with restrained stone-fruit and spine-tingling minerality. The finish is very textural, with a finely detailed and grippy mouth-feel. Drink 2024-2030.
{***}{region}Corton{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}{***}
-
2009 Volnay, Clos de la Cave des Ducs, 1er Cru, Benjamin Leroux
Having created a name for himself as régisseur (general manager) of Domaine du Comte Armand in Pommard, Benjamin Leroux established, with English backing, a small négociant business, based in Beaune since 2007. The possibilities are very exciting for this exceptionally talented vigneron. Benjamin is a master at delivering purity of fruit alongside a seamless texture in his wines, which have only the subtlest influence of oak.
The vineyard is farmed by Benjamins right-hand man, Jean-Charles Carr, and the Clos de la Cave des Ducs is the epitome of perfectly balanced Volnay not massive but with an exquisite delicacy of red and black fruit and great persistence.{***} {region}Volnay{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2009{vintage}
{ratings} [] The Wine Advocate:: 92/100 {ratings}
{***}
-
2009 Volnay, Les Taillepieds, 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille
Clear, bright and glowing purple this seductive looking Volnay from Domaine de Montille does not disappoint. Very fine, soft and elegant fruit in the foreground is followed by fruit that builds steadily on the palate and keeps going all the way through.
{***}{region}Pommard{region} {color} Red{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2009{vintage} {ratings} [] The Wine Advocate:: 91-93/100 {***}
2009 Volnay, Les Taillepieds, 1er Cru, Domaine de MontillePommard2009 Volnay, Les Taillepieds, 1er Cru, Domaine de MontilleBottle Price 75 cl $1,295.00Was $1,350.00 -
2009 Vosne-Romanée, Aux Brûlée, Domaine Bruno Clavelier
One of the most beautiful vineyards of Terroir, with its more than 85 years of life, lives vibrant in the contrast between the freshness of the winds of the Combe and the heat held by the sunny pebbles of the ground.
{***} {region}Vosne-Romanée{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text} {vintage}2009{vintage}
{ratings}
{ratings}
{***}
-
2009 Volnay, En Champans, 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille
The 2009 Volnay Champans flows across the palate with the grace of a ballerina. An exotic bouquet melds into expressive red berries, flowers, tobacco and spices. Clean, chalky notes frame the long, beautifully articulated finish. The tension and sheer energy here is fabulous. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2029.
Antonio Galloni - 26/04/2012{***}{region} Volnay {region} {color} Red {color}
{maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text} {vintage}2009{vintage} {ratings} [] The Wine Advocate:: 93/100 {ratings}{***}
2009 Volnay, En Champans, 1er Cru, Domaine de MontilleVolnay2009 Volnay, En Champans, 1er Cru, Domaine de MontilleBottle Price 75 cl $1,235.00 -
2019 Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune, Clos de la Perrière, Domaine Sébastien Magnien
This is one of the best sites in the Hautes-Côtes. It’s south-facing and stony; Sébastien’s holdings have a lot of old vines. “Complexity” isn’t a noun often associated with the Hautes-Côtes, but there’s clearly an extra dimension to this wine. It’s expressed by a sinewy structure overlaid by hints of turmeric and fulsome crunchy red fruits. Drink 2021-2027.
{***} {region} Burgundy{region} {color} Red{color}
{maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}{***}
-
2009 Bonnes Mares, Grand Cru, Domaine de la Vougeraie
After a tiny crop in 2008, Vougeraies Bonnes-Mares has delivered both quality and quantity in 2009. There is beautiful supple fruit at the front of the palate, with greater density behind in the form of plum and cherry fruit.
{***} {region}Morey-St Denis{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For Laying Down{maturity-text} {vintage}2009{vintage}
{ratings}[] Wine Advocate :: 94+/100
{ratings}
{***}
-
2011 Volnay, Clos des 60 Ouvrées, La Pousse D'Or
Elegant. A medium-bodied, medium-intense package, showing ripe and clean berry character, with a spicy, smoky undertow.
{***}{region} Volnay{region} {color} Red {color}
{maturity}drink-now{maturity} {maturity-text}Drink Now{maturity-text} {vintage}2011{vintage} {ratings}
{ratings}{***}
2011 Volnay, Clos des 60 Ouvrées, La Pousse D'OrVolnay2011 Volnay, Clos des 60 Ouvrées, La Pousse D'OrBottle Price 75 cl $915.00 -
2009 Beaune Cent Vignes, 1er Cru, Camille Giroud
Good deep red-ruby. Cherry and leather on the nose. Juicy and sweet, with a fresh quality to the black cherry, red berry, smoke and caramel flavors.
{***} {region}Beaune{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2009{vintage}
{***}
2009 Beaune Cent Vignes, 1er Cru, Camille GiroudBeaune2009 Beaune Cent Vignes, 1er Cru, Camille GiroudBottle Price 75 cl $875.00 -
2009 Nuits-St Georges Les Vaucrains, Camille Giroud
Vaucrains is situated in the heart of the appellation just south of the town of Nuits itself. It sits above Les St Georges and Les Cailles and intensity and minerality are its hallmarks. The young genius that is David Croix has fashioned this brilliant wine for Camille Giroud.
Giroud's Nuits-St Georges has a notably tough, dense structure, which is the terroir of Vaucrains speaking. Sensitive handling means that it has avoided any feeling of roughness – a really grown-up version of the Maranges, perhaps?{***}{region} Nuits-St Georges{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2009{vintage}
{ratings} [] The Wine Advocate:: 91-94/100
[] Burghound :: 91-94/100
{ratings}
{***}
-
2019 Vosne-Romanée, Benjamin Leroux
No Raviolles this year, but this is a fine mix of Vosne terroirs; the softness of the southern vineyards mingles with the silkiness of Maizières. Although a big cuvée for Ben, all the fruit is from a single source; there’s a velvety completeness to the wine. It’s plush and heady, with a fine architecture of tannin and freshness. Drink 2022-2032.
{***}{region}Vosne-Romanée{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage} {ratings} {ratings}{***}
2019 Vosne-Romanée, Benjamin LerouxVosne-Romanée2019 Vosne-Romanée, Benjamin LerouxBottle Price 75 cl $650.00 -
2019 Clos Blanc de Vougeot, 1er Cru, Domaine de la Vougeraie
This enigmatic wine is unique in Burgundy, courtesy largely of the vineyard’s very chalky soil. It abuts the northern wall of Clos Vougeot, yet it’s definitively a white wine terroir. It’s always taut and tensile in youth, with marked acidity. The warm summer added a smoky nose and hints of cumin spice. It’ll need time to knit together. Drink 2024-2035.
{***}{region} Burgundy {region} {color} White {color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage} {ratings} [] Vinous:: 89-91/100
[] Jasper Morris MW:: 93-95/100
{ratings}{***}
-
2009 Nuits-St Georges, Clos Saint-Marc, 1er Cru, Domaine Michèle & Patrice Rion
Exceptionally heady, with a huge volume of fruit at the back of the palate, this Nuits-St Georges wine is so full of fruit that it completely covers the undoubted structure, and it just keeps on going! Jasper Morris MW
{***}{region} Nuits-St Georges{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}drink-now{maturity} {maturity-text}Drink Now{maturity-text} {vintage}2009{vintage}
{ratings}
[] Jancis Robinson :: 17.5/20
{ratings}
{***}
-
2001 Pommard, Clos des Epeneaux, 1er Cru, Domaine du Comte Armand
An extraordinarily fine wine which will blossom over the next decade. This is a powerful Pommard, black in colour and thickly textured. It would be an impressive match for jugged hare or chicken cooked with black olives.
{***}{region}Pommard{region} {color} Red{color}
{maturity}drink-now{maturity} {maturity-text}Drink Now{maturity-text} {vintage}2001{vintage} {ratings} {ratings} {***}
-
2005 Nuits-St Georges, Clos des Porrets St-Georges, 1er Cru, Domaine Henri Gouges
The 2005 Nuits Saint-Georges Clos des Porrets Saint-Georges 1er Cru is both bold and expressive on the nose with black fruit, pressed iris flowers and a hint of iodine. I appreciate the delineation, not to mention the complexity that emerges after 30 minutes in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied, quite structured as most 2005s have remained, but it is redeemed by a wonderful line of acidity. Perhaps I would have preferred more flesh towards the saline finish but that might develop with time. One for the patient. (NM) (10/2018)
{***}{region} Nuits-St Georges {region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}drink-now{maturity} {maturity-text}Drink Now{maturity-text} {vintage}2005{vintage}
{ratings}[] Vinous:: 90/100
{ratings}
{***}
-
2019 Chassagne-Montrachet, Clos de la Maltroie, 1er Cru, Domaine de la Vougeraie
This new acquisition is from 0.2 hectares from the small triangle next to the village known, confusingly, as “Chassagne”, but sold as “Maltroie”. There are 62-year-old vines; the parcel was already farmed biodynamically, so no conversion was necessary. It’s rich and succulent in the Chassagne style of the vintage. Some Ormeau was also purchased but lost to frost. Drink 2024-2032.
{***}{region}Chassagne-Montrachet{region} {color} White {color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}
{ratings} [] Vinous:: 90-92/100
[] Burghound:: 90-92/100
{ratings}
{***}
-
2005 Chambolle-Musigny, Les Baudes, 1er Cru, Louis Jadot
This remains incredibly youthful though not without a certain appeal as the ripe nose of spicy and seductive red, black and violet aromas offer fine complexity. There is excellent volume to the very rich, full-bodied and impressively concentrated middle weight plus flavors that are at once appealingly textured and wonderfully long. This is supple on the mid-palate because of all of the mouth coating extract yet the finish firms up quickly as the vineyard's proximity to Bonnes Mares is very much in evidence. For my taste it would be a waste to open one of these in the next 5 years and it will need at least another 7 to 10 years to be at its best. That said, it should be terrific once it finally peaks. - (09/2013) Burghound
{***}{region}Chambolle-Musigny{region} {color} Red{color}
{maturity}drink-now{maturity} {maturity-text}Drink Now{maturity-text} {vintage}2005{vintage} {ratings} [] Burghound:: 92/100 {ratings} {***}
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2005 Volnay, Fremiet, 1er Cru, Domaine Marquis d'Angerville
This is more discreet and reserved with wonderfully pure notes of red, black and blue fruits plus a lovely hint of violets that sit atop dusty, refined and gorgeously delineated flavors supported by an almost pungent minerality on the textured, long and explosive finish. This is more concentrated and structured than usual and should live for a very long time. *Outstanding* - Burghound
{***}{region}Volnay{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text} {vintage}2005{vintage} {ratings}
[] Burghound:: 91-93/100
[] Jancis Robinson:: 18/20
{ratings} {***}
-
2002 Volnay Taillepieds, 1er Cru, Domaine Marquis d'Angerville
It's almost hard to believe but this offers even more elegance, finesse and precision than the Champans with a purity of expression that rivals the very best wines of the Côte de Beaune in 2002. This just oozes sap, which buffers the otherwise firm, mineral-infused, punchy flavors and rounds out the presently very racy finish. A wine of impeccable balance and this too is very Volnay. - 4/2004 Burghound
{***}{region}Volnay{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}drink-now{maturity} {maturity-text}Drink Now{maturity-text} {vintage}2002{vintage} {ratings}
[] The Wine Advocate:: 90-91/100
[] Burghound:: 93/100
[] Wine Spectator:: 90/100
{ratings} {***}
-
2005 Volnay, Les Fremiets, 1er Cru, Domaine Henri Boillot
This too is quite ripe yet slightly fresher with airy and high-toned red Pinot fruit that gives way to detailed and intensely mineral-infused flavors that retain a lovely sense of purity and refinement on the balanced, long and penetrating finish. This is an exercise in harmony and transparency. In a word, terrific. *Sweet spot, Outstanding* - Burghound
{***}{region}Volnay{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}drink-now{maturity} {maturity-text}Drink Now{maturity-text} {vintage}2005{vintage} {ratings}
[] Burghound:: 93/100
{ratings} {***}
-
2005 Savigny-lès-Beaune, Aux Vergelesses, 1er Cru, Simon Bize & FilsAn interesting set of aromas are present as this mixes distinct earth aromas with violet and spice hints that introduce rich, full, sweet and big-bodied flavors that are powerful and seriously long. The firm tannins are almost invisible as the dry extract really drenches the palate. A terrific effort and recommended. *Sweet Spot, Outstanding* - 4/2007 Burghound
{***} {region}Burgundy{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text} {vintage}2005{vintage}
{ratings} [] Burghound:: 91-93/100
[] Wine Advocate:: 93/100
{ratings}
{***}
-
2010 Bonnes Mares, Grand Cru, Patrice & Maxime Rion
Much more backward than the Amoureuses. This has an intense purple colour, very dense if currently unyielding fruit on the nose, and an impressively powerful palate, concentrated, tightly knit and backward. A great wine in the making.
Jasper Morris MWWe have decided to combine here the wines that fall under the domaine label and those produced officially as négociant wines and labelled as Patrice Rion. Most of these cuvées are from vines managed by Patrice who has one contract to farm the vineyards and another to buy the grapes. The exceptions are the village Chambolle-Musigny and Nuits-St Georges Vieilles Vignes where Patrice is not involved in the farming.
Patrice and son Maxime are tweaking their techniques a little by reducing new oak and slightly increasing extraction in the pre-fermentation stage. These are impressive results – the Nuits-St Georges continues the consistently fine streak of recent years while this is certainly the finest range of Chambolle-Musigny that they have ever produced. 2010 reminds Patrice a little of 1978 and 1991, two vintages with small yields, full ripeness and notable concentration.
{***} {region}Morey-St Denis{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2010{vintage}
{ratings} [] Burghound :: 92-94/100
{ratings}
{***}
-
2015 Auxey-Duresses, En Reugne, 1er Cru, Pierre Boisson
Ripe purple, with a dense concentration of dark cherry fruit, there is something a touch firmer behind, with more structure, as befits a Premier Cru. The bones are covered by delicious, unctuous fruit. This is a wine with great persistence. Drink 2020-2028.
{***} {region} Auxey-Duresses{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}drink-now{maturity} {maturity-text}Drink Now{maturity-text} {vintage}2015{vintage}{***}
-
2018 Meursault, Clos de la Barre, Domaine des Comtes Lafon
There is a phenolic note (think olive or nut oil elements) to the notably ripe white and yellow orchard fruit that includes hints of apricot, white peach and passion fruit. There is better verve to the delicious medium-bodied flavors that possess fine mid-palate density that is offset by the firm acid spine supporting the chiseled, linear and bone-dry finale. This is more tightly wound than it usually is and should also reward extended cellaring. *Burghound Outstanding top Value!*
{***}{region}Meursault{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}
{ratings} [] Vinous:: 92/100
[] Burghound :: 89-92/100
[] The Wine Advocate :: 90-92/100
{ratings}
{***}
-
2020 Berry Bros. & Rudd Bourgogne Côte d'Or Pinot Noir by Benjamin Leroux
Our friend Benjamin Leroux has made this excellent Burgundian Pinot Noir for us. Sourced exclusively from vineyards in Chorey-lès-Beaune, this wine punches above its weight in complexity and elegance. The nose is serious and brooding; pepper notes accompany charming wild-berry fruits. The warm and sunny vintage delivers generous morello cherry and subtle spice. It’s approachable now but has the structure to keep for three to five years. Pair this versatile wine with charcuterie, cheese and heartier dishes.
{***} {region}Burgundy{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}drink-now{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text} {vintage}2020{vintage} {***}
-
2018 Berry Bros. & Rudd Nuits-St Georges, Benjamin Leroux
The fruit for our 2018 Nuits-St Georges comes from 50-year-old vines in three different vineyards. The warm vintage has yielded a generous, spicy wine with a rich and rounded mouthfeel. Red and black cherries jostle for attention with sweet oak spice, while supple tannins and refreshing acidity make this an excellent wine for the table. Drink now to 2026.
{***} {region}Nuits-St Georges{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}{***}
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2017 Berry Bros. & Rudd Gevrey-Chambertin by Rossignol-Trapet
Made with fruit from 65-year-old, organically farmed vines, our 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin is charming, fleet-footed and delicate. Using two-thirds whole bunches and just 15% new oak, brothers David and Nicolas Rossignol have produced a vibrant and energetic wine with a beguiling floral perfume, sweet crushed strawberry fruit and a refreshing finish. Try it with lighter red meat dishes or salmon.
{***} {region}Gevrey-Chambertin{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage} {ratings} {ratings}{***}
-
2020 Berry Bros. & Rudd White Burgundy by Collovray & Terrier
For our 2019 White Burgundy we have worked once again with our good friends Jean-Luc Terrier and Christian Collovray. The warm and sunny 2019 vintage has yielded a charming wine with aromas of ripe stone-fruit, subtle floral touches and a suggestion of toasted hazelnuts. The palate is at once generous and refreshing, with a mineral, smoky finish courtesy of judicious oak ageing. A versatile wine, enjoy it on its own or as an accompaniment to salads, seafood and lighter meat dishes.
{***} {region}Burgundy{region} {color}White{color} {vintage}2020{vintage} {maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text} {ratings} {ratings}{***}
-
2017 Savigny-Lès-Beaune, Les Peuillets, 1er Cru, Domaine GuyonThe Peuillets vineyard is sandy and can suffer in the heat. This is not about complexity, aiming instead for an openness of style and a creamy palate, at which it succeeds very well, but without compromising vitality. Drink 2020-2024.
Jean-Pierre Guyon tasted his berries on 8th September and was not impressed. He waited for the rain that weekend and was among the last to harvest on 15th September. He got lucky, but his assiduous vineyard work must also have helped the astonishing transformation. It’s an hugely impressive range, better than 2016 in Jean-Pierre’s view, and certainly one of the best addresses this year. He has smart new labels as well, with vin biologique proudly to the fore. There is more terroir definition this year, and Jean-Pierre will bottle a little earlier.{***} {region}Burgundy{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage}
{ratings}[] Wine Advocate:: 90-92/100 {ratings}
{***}
-
2018 Bourgogne Passetoutgrain, Vieilles-Vignes, Domaine Bruno Clavelier
There is plenty of freshly turned, and pungent, earth character on the somewhat gamy aromas of wild red and dark berries. The earth continues onto the solidly voluminous and rich middle weight flavors that possess very good punch while exhibiting excellent depth and persistence for the genre on the rustic finale. What is all the more impressive is that this wine should have no trouble aging well too if that's your preference.
{***}{region}Burgundy{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}{***}
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2017 Chambolle-Musigny, Vieilles Vignes, Patrice & Maxime Rion
A blend of three vineyards – La Taupe (above Combe d’Orveau), Les Babillères and Aux Croix (both on the flatter soil) – gives a nicely balanced reading of Chambolle. There is floral character, plenty of midpalate weight and generosity, alongside cool, crunchy minerals. An accessible Chambolle. Drink 2020-2025.
{***}{region}Chambolle-Musigny{region} {color} Red{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage} {ratings} {ratings} {***}
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2019 Bourgogne Rouge, Héritière Louis Remy
Lovely sweet red berry fruit on the attack. This boasts a rich, silky texture but there’s crisp acidity behind; it’s a blend of grapes from Nuits and cooler, calcareous sites in Morey. Touches of grilled meats and toasty oak spice add intrigue. Another impressive effort from Florian. Drink 2022 to 2026.
{***}{region} Burgundy{region} {color} Red{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage} {ratings} {ratings}{***}
2019 Bourgogne Rouge, Héritière Louis RemyBurgundy2019 Bourgogne Rouge, Héritière Louis RemyBottle Price 75 cl $235.00 -
2020 Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge, Domaine Joseph Colin
From Les Pierres and Poirier du Clos. Clear fresh purple not too deep, some reduction on the nose which will blow of, otherwise quite a fresh raspberry fruit. Crisp clean and chiselled, now also some fresh cherry. 12.8% alcohol, which is what it tastes like. - Jasper Morris MW, November 2021
{***}{region}Chassagne-Montrachet{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text}
{vintage}2020{vintage}
{ratings} [] Jasper Morris MW:: 89-91/100
{ratings}
{***}
-
2018 Gevrey-Chambertin, Aux Etelois, Domaine Rossignol-Trapet
Back in the fold after last year’s absence, this comes from the triangle of vines that protrudes between the Grands Crus Charmes and Griotte. It’s rare for a village wine to abut the Grands Crus; the result is an interesting, smoky, peaty nose and a fine, serious edge. There’s much more here than sunshine and ripeness. Drink 2022-2027.
{***} {region}Gevrey-Chambertin{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}
{***}
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2018 Nuits-St Georges, Clos de Thorey, 1er Cru, Domaine de la Vougeraie
Sylvie Poillot, General Manager, farms the estate’s 42 hectares biodynamically. “We do this to preserve the fertility of soils, and to have a very good balance between the soil and the plant’s health,” she explains. It’s not just the soil health that’s changed: two decades on from their conversion to biodynamics, the wines are evolving too: “The wines are more aromatic and more expressive year after year,” she says.
Vougeraie has a huge three hectares here; half the vines are young and half over 50 years old. This is a wine of real aromatic intensity, with plenty of perfume and a touch of ground coffee. The palate is very juicy with a creamy, luxurious texture and a long, fine finish with layers of powdery, salivating tannin. Drink 2022-2028.
{***}{region} Nuits-St Georges{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-keep{maturity}
{maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}{***}
-
2017 Gevrey-Chambertin, Domaine Sérafin Père & Fils
From 10 parcels with an average age of 50 years, this is raised in 30 percent new oak. The basic material is excellent and there is plenty of freshness, overlaid by the oak, but there are really good things here for those who are patient. Drink 2022-2026.
The harvest was done early and quickly here, starting on 6th September and finished by 12th. Karine Sérafin explained that the estate was harvesting earlier than before, to keep more freshness in the wines, and also working more with leaf coverage. The old vines negated any need to green harvest and yields are up by only 20 percent from 2016, but otherwise Karine and her cousin Frédérique are intent on preserving the individuality of Christian Sérafin’s style for vins de garde, with 100 percent new oak for everything upwards from the Gevrey Vieilles Vignes.{***} {region}Gevrey-Chambertin{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text}
{vintage}2017{vintage}
{***}
-
1999 Nuits-St Georges, Les Saint Georges, 1er Cru, Domaine Henri Gouges
"Elegance personified with intensely spicy red and black fruit, anise and a hint of oak with mouth coating pungent fruit and earth flavors. The mouthfeel is extraordinary with fine tannins and superb length. This has enormous potential and is one of the finest Les St.-Georges I have ever tasted from Domaine Gouges"
91-93/100 pts, Burghound.com{***}{region} Nuits-St Georges {region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}1999{vintage}
{ratings}[] Burghound:: 91-93/100
[] Wine Advocate:: 89-91/100
[] Jancis Robinson:: 17.5/20
{ratings}
{***}
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2005 Morey-St Denis, Clos des Ormes, 1er Cru, Domaine Georges Lignier & Fils
Georges Lignier is cousin to Hubert Lignier. In the 1980s the wines from the two domaines were broadly comparable, and a Clos de la Roche 1976 drunk in the summer of 2009 was superb, still remarkably youthful.
The vineyard holdings are impressive: Clos de la Roche, Clos St Denis, Charmes Chambertin, Bonnes Mares, Gevrey Chambertin Combottes, Morey St Denis Clos des Ormes, and village wines in Marsannay, Gevrey, Morey, Chambolle and Volnay.{***} {region}Morey-St Denis{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2005{vintage}
{ratings} {ratings}
{***}
-
2018 Gevrey-Chambertin, Benjamin Leroux
This is another important cuvée for Ben and it demonstrates his ability to capture the essence of a village’s character with, it seems, almost minimum effort. Everything was de-stemmed this year and, yes, it’s immediate and authentic, but also delivers more complexity than is at first evident. Notes of lavender and sweet peony, and a more schoolmasterly structure. Drink 2022-2028.
{***} {region}Gevrey-Chambertin{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}
{ratings}[] Antonio Galloni:: 89-91/100{ratings}
{***}
2018 Gevrey-Chambertin, Benjamin LerouxGevrey-Chambertin2018 Gevrey-Chambertin, Benjamin LerouxBottle Price 75 cl $428.00 -
2017 Bourgogne Blanc, Anne Boisson
Domaine Boisson-Vadot, run by father and son team of Bernard and Pierre Boisson, is one of the rising stars in Mersault. The philosophy of the Domaine revolves around careful, hands-on vineyard management to coax the greatest potential of each vintage out of the various plots, and low-impact winemaking in the cellars that allows the unique terroir of each vineyard to surface. New oak is very minimal, no more than 30% for the top cuvées, and much more restraint in the village wines and in Bourgogne Blanc.
{***} {region}Burgundy{region} {color}White{color} {maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage} {***}
2017 Bourgogne Blanc, Anne BoissonBurgundy2017 Bourgogne Blanc, Anne BoissonBottle Price 75 cl $295.00 -
2011 Volnay, Les Angles, 1er Cru, Domaine Louis Boillot & Fils
The Boillot family has a long and rich history in Burgundy, and fortunately, Louis has a habit of holding back a little wine each year to be offered when it is at maturity. The village of Volnay is renowned for producing elegant, perfumed red wines, and this 2011 is drinking beautifully now.
The nose is delicate and lifted with crushed strawberry fruit, a touch of sousbois, subtle sweet oak spice and gentle graphite notes. The palate is energetic and fresh with a keen thread of acidity that calls out for food, while the tannins are smooth and layered. This would be the ideal partner for duck or mushroom dishes.
{***}{region} Volnay{region} {color} Red {color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2011{vintage} {ratings}
{ratings}{***}
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2014 Clos des Lambrays, Grand Cru, Domaine des Lambrays
All the stems were used in vinification but, such is the intensity of the fruit, they don’t show. This is a rich, plump purple with a surfeit of ripe, velvety red fruit. It is very clean, very pure and very direct: lots of stuffing and lots of stems give this a very tight profile for the moment. This will take a bit longer than some vintages – but promises to be first rate.
Thierry Brouin, whose successor at the Domaine des Lambrays is about to be unveiled, is very happy with 2014, his 36th vintage in charge here. He began picking on 22nd September, relatively late by his standards, and is happy to have produced a little more wine this year (with the exception of the Premier Cru).{***} {region}Morey-St Denis{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text} {vintage}2014{vintage}
{ratings} [] Wine Advocate:: 93-95/100
{ratings}
{***}
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2002 Nuits-St Georges, Les Vaucrains, 1er Cru, Domaine Jean Chauvenet
Vaucrains rubs shoulders with Les-St Georges, the best site in Nuits. The nose is fine and detailed, the palate fresh coulis and marinated fruits in alcohol. Drink from 2010.
{***}{region} Nuits-St Georges{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}drink-now{maturity} {maturity-text}Drink now{maturity-text} {vintage}2002{vintage}
{ratings}
{***}
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2016 Pommard, Clos des Epeneaux, 1er Cru Domaine du Comte Armand
There was only about half the normal yield this year (whatever that means at the moment), with only 30 barrels made. Tasting the separate components of younger (25-year-old) and older (65- to 80-year-old) vines, as well as the vin de presse , really highlighted where Paul is aiming to take the Clos. A new vertical press leaves more berries intact, and thus more sugar. There is an unusual level of suppleness (even in the vin de presse. This is really rather wonderful, a great terroir evolving with the times. Drink 2023-2035.
{***}{region}Pommard{region} {color} Red{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For Laying Down{maturity-text} {vintage}2016{vintage} {ratings} [] The Wine Advocate:: 93-95/100{ratings} {***}
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2015 Meursault, Genevrières-Dessous, 1er Cru, Benjamin Leroux
The nose shows more pungent crushed-stone minerality than the Meursault Genevrières-Dessous. Stylish, broad and horizontal, conveying a sense of brooding energy even if it's in a slightly oxidative phase today. Very dry, salty wine with a vibrant aftertaste that builds inexorably. In a distinctly less fruity and more Perrières -like wet stone style than the Dessous, which Leroux says is more typical Genevrières.
{***}{region}Meursault{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}drink-now{maturity} {maturity-text}Drink Now{maturity-text} {vintage}2015{vintage}
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2013 Meursault Sous La Velle, Anne Boisson
Domaine Boisson-Vadot, run by father and son team of Bernard and Pierre Boisson, is one of the rising stars in Mersault. The philosophy of the Domaine revolves around careful, hands-on vineyard management to coax the greatest potential of each vintage out of the various plots, and low-impact winemaking in the cellars that allows the unique terroir of each vineyard to surface. New oak is very minimal, no more than 30% for the top cuvées, and much more restraint in the village wines and in Bourgogne Blanc.
The Domaine crafts from three of the best lieux à dits in Meursault: Sous la Velle , Grands Charrons (planted in 1988) and Chevalières (planted in 1982). The Grands Charrons is the most expressive, intensely flavoured of the three. The Sous la Velle is a more elegant version of the Grand Charrons.{***} {region}Meursault{region} {color}White{color} {maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will ikeep{maturity-text} {vintage}2013{vintage}
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2013 Meursault Sous La Velle, Anne BoissonMeursault2013 Meursault Sous La Velle, Anne BoissonBottle Price 75 cl $1,165.00 -
2015 Nuits-St Georges, Richemone Ultra, 1er Cru, Perrot-Minot (Magnum)
The 2015 Nuits Saint-Georges 1er Cru La Richemone Vieilles Vignes "Cuvée Ultra" has another vibrant, generous bouquet with ample red cherry, cassis, crushed violet and mineral scents. It is very pure, almost sorbet-like. The palate is medium-bodied with fleshy ripe black cherry and blackcurrant fruit laced with a pinch of white pepper and minerals. Like Christophe's other 2015s, it offers panache in spades, with a caressing finish that lingers long in the mouth, a residue of orange rind on the aftertaste. This is excellent. (NM) - Wine Advocate
{***}{region} Nuits-St Georges{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage}
{ratings} [] Vinous:: 94/100
[] Burghound :: 92-94/100
[] Wine Advocate:: 92-94/100
[] Wine Spectator:: 95/100
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2015 Chambolle-Musigny, Les Cras, Méo-Camuzet Frère & Soeurs
Once again reduction pushes the fruit to the background. There is excellent punch and detail to the equally saline-inflected but more refined medium weight flavors that possess better complexity on the lilting and well-balanced finale. This graceful effort is very Chambolle in style and it should drink well on the younger side if desired. - Burghound
{***}{region}Chambolle-Musigny{region} {color} Red{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2015{vintage} {ratings} [] Burghound:: 90-92/100
[] Vinous:: 89-92/100
{ratings} {***}
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2001 Beaune Grèves, Vigne de L'Enfant Jésus, 1er Cru, Bouchard Père & FilsStrong wood and menthol elements all but dominate the earthy and spicy red dark pinot fruit scents. The sleek, intense and well-defined medium-bodied flavors exude evident minerality onto the much more complex and persistent finale where the wood telegraphed by the nose reemerges. This is really quite good though note that my predicted range offers the benefit of the doubt that the generous wood will ultimately be successfully integrated." - Allen Meadows
{***} {region}Burgundy{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}drink-now{maturity} {maturity-text}Drink Now{maturity-text} {vintage}2001{vintage}
{ratings} [] Wine Advocate:: 92/100
[] Burghound :: 90-93/100
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2017 Morey-St Denis, Les Faconnières, 1er Cru, Lignier-Michelot
This sits just underneath Clos de la Roche and bears more than a passing resemblance to its neighbour. The 70-year-old vines produce tiny berries, giving great concentration of luscious blue fruit, plenty of power and a rocky, stony finish. A mini Clos de la Roche. Drink 2023-2030.
Having tasted numerous different wine styles Virgile decided he loves wines made with whole bunches, and has set about changing his winemaking to include a larger proportion each year, arriving now at a stage where he can’t imagine himself using less than 50 percent. His winemaking is consequently very gentle to avoid extracting harsh tannins from the stems. He began harvesting on 10th September, a little later than some neighbours as he waited for the stems to ripen. Virgile feels this is a vintage which has gained enormously from élevage, giving fine, elegant wines which will drink well early and age surprisingly well.{***} {region}Morey-St Denis{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage}
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2019 Bourgogne Aligoté, Vielles Vignes, Domaine Bruno Clavelier
From 85-year-old vines; a high proportion of old selection of golden aligoté contributes a richness and power to this wine, leaving a mineral finish. It is great young—as is typical of the variety—displaying notes of citrus and exotic fruits, but with a few years it evolves more complex aromas of stone fruit and flowers. A year of aging in vats helps to preserve the freshness of the fruit.
{***}{region} Burgundy {region} {color} White {color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}{***}
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2019 St Aubin Compendium, Domaine Joseph Colin
New vines in En Vermarin make this now a blend of eight village parcels across seven lieux-dits. Each parcel is picked separately, based on ripeness. The nose here is charming, with peaches and cream, and some floral detail. The palate follows a similar profile with a little spicy reduction. The finish is crisp and fresh, with pleasing hazelnut. Drink 2022-2027.
{***}{region}St Aubin{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity}
{maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage} {ratings} {ratings} {***}
2019 St Aubin Compendium, Domaine Joseph ColinSt Aubin2019 St Aubin Compendium, Domaine Joseph ColinBottle Price 75 cl $325.00 -
2019 St Aubin, Derrière la Tour, 1er Cru, Domaine Jean-Claude Bachelet
The Bachelets’ reds are not to be overlooked. Harvested after the Chardonnay – with 2018 being the one exception – the Pinot Noir grapes are destemmed. This cuvée hails from a tiny, south-facing vineyard in the hamlet of Gamay. It’s immensely appetising, with cranberry and floral aromas, crunchy acidity and chalky tannins. Drink 2022-2027.
{***}{region}St Aubin{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}
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2020 Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Evocelles, Domaine de la Vougeraie (Magnum)
Evocelles was hit by a cataclysmic hailstorm in 2021; there’ll be hardly any wine next year. The three hectares of vines are at the top, touching the treeline (so of interest to the local wild boar). There’s Brochon spice, tight fruit and tannin. With 30% whole-bunch, this is a wine of vitality, finishing with some white pepper. Drink 2023-2029.
{***} {region}Gevrey-Chambertin{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2020{vintage}
{ratings} [] Jasper Morris MW:: 90-92/100
[] JBurghound:: 90-92/100
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2015 Chassagne-Montrachet, Morgeot, Les Fairendes, 1er Cru, Domaine Henri Germain & Fils
This is also notably reduced. There is excellent richness and power to the big, bold and palate staining flavors that possess plenty of sappy dry extract, all wrapped in a relatively dry and balanced if only moderately complex finish. More depth will surely develop but it's not clear that this will hit its usual level of overall quality even with age. - Burghound
{***}{region}Chassagne-Montrachet{region} {color} White {color}
{maturity}drink-now{maturity} {maturity-text}Drink Now{maturity-text} {vintage}2015{vintage}
{ratings} [] Burghound:: 89-91/100
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2017 Nuits-St Georges, Méo-Camuzet Frères & Soeurs
This is from a single 1.5-hectare plot in the lieu-dit Le Bas de Combe whose location next to Vosne-Romanée is borne out by this wine’s open, lifted bouquet which would be more Vosne than Nuits but for that engaging hint of spice. The oak (50 percent new) is well-integrated and there’s a pleasing roundness to the palate – indeed, this is remarkably complete for such a young wine. Drink 2020-2025.
Jean-Nicolas describes 2017 as a pretty vintage, with excellent approachability and drinkability at every level, with wines higher up the quality scale offering more complexity and some really serious ageing potential. Picking began on the 6th September in good conditions, and while there was a little rain towards the end, this did not have any impact on quality. The 2017 vintage was the final year under Vineyard Manager Christian Faurois, son and nephew of some of the original MéoCamuzet sharecroppers, who shared his passion for the vineyards with Jean-Nicolas and retired in May 2018. Our notes indicate whether each of the wines is a domaine or négoce bottling.{***}{region} Nuits-St Georges{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage}{***}
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2019 Beaune, Les Grèves, 1er Cru, Dominique Lafon
This is rented from the same owner as the Vignes Franches; vines are also 60 years old. This is the most complex of Dominique’s trio: he considers it the best vineyard in Beaune. The wine is positive and structured, but with finesse, too. The red fruits are expressed more as spice, with a slightly ferric undertone.
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{region}Beaune{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity}
{maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}
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2019 Beaune, Les Grèves, 1er Cru, Dominique LafonBeaune2019 Beaune, Les Grèves, 1er Cru, Dominique LafonBottle Price 75 cl $495.00 -
2008 Chablis, Les Vaillons, 1er Cru, Vincent Dauvissat
Kiwi, white currant, grapefruit, ocean breeze and kelp in the nose of Vincent Dauvissats 2008 Chablis Vaillons lead into a brightly citric, saline, palpably dense palate with tart and bitter impingement of citrus rind and pips, berry seeds, and juniper. Mysteriously marine though almost severe in its concentration and piquancy, this will need at least a couple of years in bottle to properly prove itself and show a more generous side. Its certainly formidable already now, and I would not be surprised to see it reveal close to a decades stamina.
David Schildknecht - 31/10/2010{***}{region}Chablis{region} {color}White{color} {maturity}drink-now{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text} {vintage}2008{vintage}
{ratings} [] Wine Advocate:: 91/100 {ratings}
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2019 St Aubin, En Remilly, 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille (Magnum)
This is probably St Aubin’s best vineyard, over the hill from Le Montrachet. Although sometimes prone to drought stress, De Montille’s vines are towards the bottom of the vineyard, with sufficiently deep roots to be mostly unaffected. This pitch-perfect example has a pinch of Puligny’s reserve and tension mingling with lime blossom and peach aromas. Drink 2024-2034.
{***}{region}St Aubin{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage} {ratings} {ratings} {***}
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2017 Chevalier-Montrachet, Grand Cru, Domaine de Montille
Like the Cailleret, this escaped frost in 2017. The wine comes from the most northern part of the vineyard. If 2017 is a classic white wine vintage, then this wine, and any other Grand Cru, will be the quintessence of great white Burgundy. Its Chevalier character emerges with its lively, quixotically faceted flavours. Drink 2025-2040.
Winemaker Brian Sieve draws comparisons between the white wines of 2017 and 2014, explaining that the texture, weight and freshness are very similar in both years, although 2017 has perhaps a little more fruit ripeness, along with excellent tension and persistence. He believes that this same freshness and brightness in the reds will provide ageing capacity, pointing out that they worked hard to restrict the yield of Pinot Noir to achieve riper grapes. Overall slightly less whole-bunch fermentation was used as Brian felt the stems and fruit were not as ripe as in richer vintages.{***}{region}Puligny-Montrachet{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For Laying Down{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage}
{ratings} [] Wine Advocate:: 93-96/100
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2016 Bourgogne Blanc, Cuvée Oligocene, Patrick Javillier
From the Puligny side of the generic land, which was frosted, but not heavily, this carries 35 percent new oak and has a defined, clear Puligny style, with tight fruit and a kernel of nuttiness. Neatly made, it has substance for a Bourgogne Blanc – indeed, it’s as good as a village Puligny at other addresses.
{***}{region}Burgundy{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}drink-now{maturity} {maturity-text}Drink Now{maturity-text} {vintage}2016{vintage}{***}
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1996 Pommard, Clos des Epeneaux, 1er Cru, Domaine du Comte Armand
An extraordinarily fine wine which will blossom over the next decade. This is a powerful Pommard, black in colour and thickly textured. It would be an impressive match for jugged hare or chicken cooked with black olives.
{***}{region}Pommard{region} {color} Red{color}
{maturity}drink-now{maturity} {maturity-text}Drink Now{maturity-text} {vintage}1996{vintage} {ratings} {ratings} {***}