Red Burgundy

Our friend Benjamin Leroux has made this excellent Burgundian Pinot Noir for us. Sourced exclusively from vineyards in Chorey-lès-Beaune, this wine punches above its weight in complexity and elegance. The nose is serious and brooding; pepper notes accompany charming wild-berry fruits. The warm and sunny vintage delivers generous morello cherry and subtle spice. It’s approachable now but has the structure to keep for three to five years. Pair this versatile wine with charcuterie, cheese and heartier dishes.

{***}
{region}Burgundy{region}
{color}Red{color}
{maturity}drink-now{maturity}
{maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text}
{vintage}2020{vintage}
{***}

The fruit for our 2018 Nuits-St Georges comes from 50-year-old vines in three different vineyards. The warm vintage has yielded a generous, spicy wine with a rich and rounded mouthfeel. Red and black cherries jostle for attention with sweet oak spice, while supple tannins and refreshing acidity make this an excellent wine for the table. Drink now to 2026.

{***}
{region}Nuits-St Georges{region}
{color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity}
{maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text}
{vintage}2018{vintage}{***}

Made with fruit from 65-year-old, organically farmed vines, our 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin is charming, fleet-footed and delicate. Using two-thirds whole bunches and just 15% new oak, brothers David and Nicolas Rossignol have produced a vibrant and energetic wine with a beguiling floral perfume, sweet crushed strawberry fruit and a refreshing finish. Try it with lighter red meat dishes  or salmon.

{***}
{region}Gevrey-Chambertin{region}
{color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-keep{maturity}
{maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text}
{vintage}2017{vintage}
{ratings}
 
{ratings}{***}

The 2018 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière La Tour is showing nicely, mingling aromas of cherries and red berries with hints of potpourri and spices. Medium to full-bodied, bright and fleshy, the combination of a warm vintage and a cooler, higher-altitude site is felicitous.

{***}{region}St Aubin{region}
{color}Red{color}                      {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text}
{vintage}2018{vintage}

{ratings} [] Wine Advocate:: 90/100

{ratings}

{***}

With subtle perfume, this is rather lovely, but not glossy, as the vineyard lies towards Pommard so is more structured than most. Last year’s frosts were heavy here and have meant some retraining of damaged vines, reducing the normal yield by 40 percent, but they should be back in commission by the 2019 vintage. Drink 2020-2024.

{***}

{region}Beaune{region}

{color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage}

{ratings}
{ratings}        {***}

Dominique rents this from the same owner as Vignes Franches, and the vines are also 60 years old. Arguably Beaune’s best vineyard, this has an extra layer of dark, meaty richness alongside the usual bright, floral notes. Drink 2024-2031.

{***}

{region}Beaune{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity}

{maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}

{ratings}
 {ratings}        {***}

{***}
{region}Beaune{region}
{color}Red{color}
{maturity}drink-now{maturity}
{maturity-text}Drink Now{maturity-text}
{vintage}1985{vintage}

{***}

Ben’s parcel is located just above the famous Clos des 60 Ouvrées. Caillerets gives some of Volnay’s most joyous and headily perfumed wines, redolent of violet and rose. There are some old vines, up to 70 years old, and Ben uses as much whole-bunch as he can (80% this year), based on each vine’s genetic quality. The year’s ripeness translates to succulence, but the terroir also gives composure and equanimity. Drink 2026-2033.

{***}
{region}Volnay{region}
{color}Red{color}                               

{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For Laying down{maturity-text}
{vintage}2018{vintage}

{ratings}
{ratings}

{***}

Brian was limited to 50% whole-bunch here; it would have been more, but there was no space in the tank. Champans can tend towards the rustic and tannic, and Brian softens the edges to give a softer, gentler and more delicate expression with silky tannins and lovely, perfumed lift. Drink 2023-2029.

{***}{region} Volnay {region}
{color} Red {color}                                                              

 {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text}
{vintage}2018{vintage}
{ratings}
{ratings}{***}

The 2017 Volnay 1er Cru Les Santenots-du-Milieu confirms its strong showing from barrel, soaring from the glass with scents of ripe cherries, red berries, rose petals, orange rind and a deft touch of toasty new oak. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with melting tannins, succulent acids and a charming, supple profile that makes it hard to resist. - Wine Advocate 

{***}
{region}Volnay{region}
{color}Red{color}                               {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text}
{vintage}2017{vintage}

{ratings} [] Wine Advocate:: 93/100

 [] Vinous:: 93/100

 [] Burghound:: 92/100

{ratings}

{***}

As Pommards go, Les Pézerolles is rather Volnaysien in style, thanks to its limestone soils, which give a more elegant and delicate expression. The fruit here is most definitely red and this is pretty, perfumed and charming, but with a serious, chalky limestone structure. Drink 2024-2032.

{***}{region}Pommard{region}
{color} Red{color}                                                               {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text}
{vintage}2018{vintage}
{ratings}        {***}

Domaine Boisson-Vadot, run by father and son team of Bernard and Pierre Boisson, is one of the rising stars in Meursault. The philosophy of the Domaine revolves around careful, hands-on vineyard management to coax the greatest potential of each vintage out of the various plots, and low-impact winemaking in the cellars that allows the unique terroir of each vineyard to surface. New oak is very minimal, no more than 30% for the top cuvées, and much more restraint in  the village wines and in Bourgogne Blanc.

Pierre Boisson produces a village Meursault from his grandmother’s vineyards (50 year old vines in the lieu-dits of Criots and Perchots) that is hailed an model wine for the appellation. 

{***}{region}Pommard{region}
{color}Red{color}              {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text}
{vintage}2017{vintage}

{ratings}

[] Vinous:: 94/100

{ratings}

{***}

The deeper clay soil here has preserved an energetic, mentholated freshness, which provides an engaging counterpoint to the black cherry fruit and bitter dark chocolate notes. The attack is friendly and generous, but there is serious structure behind, and this will require patience. Drink 2025-2031.

{***}{region} Nuits-St Georges{region}
{color}Red{color}        {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text}
{vintage}2018{vintage}{***}

A distinctly floral nose of spice, plum and earth introduces relatively refined medium-bodied flavors that display a touch of wood on the solidly complex, well-balanced and persistent finish. As is typically the case this is an elegant Nuits but with the structure to reward longer-term cellaring. - Allen Meadows, Burghound

{***}{region} Nuits-St Georges {region}
{color}Red{color}        {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text}
{vintage}2012{vintage}

{ratings} [] Burghound:: 89-92/100

{ratings}

{***}

Sérafin’s vines sit within a clos of sorts here, in what used to be a cemetery. The vines are 50 years old and the wine has a fine-boned structure wrapped like a belt around a weighty, spicy middle. This is quite a substantial wine, but it will age well. Drink 2026-2032.

{***}
{region}Gevrey-Chambertin{region}
{color}Red{color}

{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} 

{vintage}2018{vintage}

{***}

{***}
{region}Gevrey-Chambertin{region}
{color}Red{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity}
{maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text}
{vintage}2017{vintage}

{ratings} [] Burghound:: 89/100

{ratings}

{***}

{***}
{region}Gevrey-Chambertin{region}
{color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-keep{maturity}
{maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text}
{vintage}2017{vintage}

{***}

The lower part here is Premier Cru, beside Les Fuées. This is from the village section, above Les Fuées and adjacent to Bonnes Mares. Its altitude is a real benefit during global warming. The perfume is bright, pure and lifted; the palate is full of redcurrant fruit with chalky tannins. It’s charming and full of joie de vivre. Drink 2022-2032. 

{***}{region}Chambolle-Musigny{region}
{color} Red{color}                                                              

 {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text}
{vintage}2019{vintage}
{ratings}
 [] Vinous:: 91-93/100        
 [] Jasper Morris MW:: 90-93/100{ratings}        {***}

This lieu-dit just above Clos de Tart has a very cool, mineral terroir. This saw 80 percent whole-bunch  and 30 percent new oak. The nose is pretty, with a delicate lift and an energy which flows through to  the palate. Pleasant, medium-weight fruit is underpinned by a cool, chalky grip from the  limestone soil. Drink 2020-2024.

{***}
{region}Morey-St Denis{region}
{color}Red{color}                              

 {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text}
{vintage}2017{vintage}

{***}

{***}{region} Vougeot {region}
{color} Red {color}                                                              

 {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text}
{vintage}2018{vintage}
{ratings}
{ratings}{***}

There are two suppliers for this wine, one each located in Charmes and Mazoyères-Chambertin. The nose for this Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru is plump and open, but attractively fresh. The stems show a bit, more structure than usual, improving the overall structure of the wine. Another impressively long finish.

{***}{region} Gevrey-Chambertin {region}
{color}Red{color}                                                              

{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text}
{vintage}2010{vintage}

{ratings} []Burghound:: 91-94/100

[]Jancis Robinson:: 17/20

{ratings}

{***}

Rich full purple. An explosive nose of weight and majesty, everything you would hope for. Chassin barrel shows again, marvellous mid palate fruit, then a wonderful long finish based around a complex basket of fruit, superb texture, seamless, and enormously long. Again there is a wonderful, fresh undercurrent which comes from picking at the right time. Bravo. Throughout this wine shows a beautiful grain of finesse, with silky tannins all the way through.
Jasper Morris MW

{***}{region} Gevrey-Chambertin {region}
{color}Red{color}                                                              

{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text}
{vintage}2011{vintage}

{ratings} []Burghound:: 93-96/100

{ratings}

{***}

Moderate wood influence surrounds the overtly spiced and ripe plum, dark currant and violet scents. The attractively textured, rich and sappy medium weight flavors possess very good depth on the lengthy finish where a touch of wood appears. This is quite good for its level and is a wine that should drink well on the younger side if that's your preference. - Allen Meadows, Burghound

{***}{region}Vosne-Romanée{region}
{color}Red{color}                                                                                                {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text}
{vintage}2018{vintage}
{ratings}      [] Burghound:: 89-91/100

[] Vinous:: 88-90/100   

{ratings}{***}

Roulot's only premier cru bottling of red grapes, the Auxey is perfect for those who enjoy an ethereal, mineral-driven style of Pinot Noir. The nose presents a harmonious medley of dark berries and spice, while the palate echoes the taut, crystalline character of the domaine's white wines. A chalky core underpins this red that will drink beautifully for at least the next decade.

{***}
{region} Auxey-Duresses{region}
{color}Red{color}                                                             

  {maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text}
{vintage}2017{vintage}{***}

A very pretty and airy nose features notes of red cherry, raspberry and spice with a shading of soft wood and earth. On the palate though this is not nearly as concentrated though there is still perfectly good concentration and a sleek muscularity on the vibrant, detailed and lingering finish. While this is by no means light, it is a Charmes built more along the lines of finesse than power. Drink 2028+

Burghound (Apr 2018)

{***}{region} Gevrey-Chambertin {region}
{color}Red{color}                                                             

{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text}
{vintage}2016{vintage}

{ratings} 

[] Burghound:: 91-94/100

{ratings}

{***}

In Etienne’s hands Roncière is always an elegant and red-fruited expression of Nuits, even in a warm vintage such as 2018. Red fruit abounds on the caressing palate, while the finish is spicy and refreshing, with a cooling sage-mint feel. Drink 2024-2030.

{***}{region} Nuits-St Georges{region}
{color}Red{color}        {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text}
{vintage}2018{vintage}{***}

Consistently one of the highest quality vineyards in Nuits, producing wines deep in colour and fruit. With Faiveley providing a taut structure for ageing.

{***}{region} Nuits-St Georges {region}
{color}Red{color}                                                               

{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text}
{vintage}2004{vintage}

{ratings}

{ratings}

{***}

This vineyard sits across the road from the house, with quite deep (two metres) topsoil over marne. Very typically Nuits, there’s plenty of black fruit and sweet spice on the nose, while the palate offers red and black cherry, and some floral touches. Weighty, dense and concentrated with a rocky, limestone texture to the tannins; it’s deep, dense, complex and age-worthy. Drink 2023-2030.

{***}{region} Nuits-St Georges {region}
{color}Red{color}        {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text}
{vintage}2017{vintage}{***}

Discreet but not invisible wood and menthol influences set off the much riper aromas of cassis, plum, black raspberry and game. There is excellent intensity to the mineral-driven and overtly powerful middle weight plus flavors that offer excellent depth and persistence on the firmly structured finale. This is really quite good and worth checking out provided you cellar it for at least 5 to 7 years first.  93 Points - Burghound

{***}
{region}Morey-St Denis{region}
{color}Red{color}                              

{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text}
{vintage}2017{vintage}

{ratings} [] Burghound:: 93/100

{ratings}

{***}

Here there is a bit more wood influence on the distinctly earthy and quite floral aromas of dark currant poach plum and a softly spicy top note. The sleeker if not quite as dense medium-bodied flavors possess focused power that really builds as the dusty and serious finish sits on the palate. Excellent. Drink starting 2033. - Burghound

{***}
{region}Beaune{region}
{color}Red{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity}
{maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text}
{vintage}2018{vintage}

{ratings} []Burghound:: 91-93/100

[]Wine Advocate:: 91-93/100

[]Vinous:: 91-93/100

[]Jasper Morris:: 92-95/100

{ratings}

{***}

This is from the northern end of Chambolle, immediately under Bonnes Mares, with which it shares some personality: this is a stronger style of Chambolle. There’s plenty of intent about the wine, and it has the shoulders to carry it off. A forthright and assertive wine, the slightly ferric tannins play a key role, underpinned by spicy oak. Drink 2027-2038. 

{***}
{region}Chambolle-Musigny{region}
{color}Red{color}

{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} 

{vintage}2017{vintage}

{ratings} {ratings}

{***}

This is from Très Girard, Les Cognées and the village section of Chenevery, with the oldest vines aged 80 years. There is deeper clay here and the wine is in a more generous style for Morey. It’s very plush in 2018, but given dimension by a spicy, chunky finish. Drink 2022-2026.

{***}
{region}Morey-St Denis{region}
{color}Red{color}                              

{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text}
{vintage}2018{vintage}

{ratings} 

{ratings}

{***}

Like the Aux Thorey the nose is mildly reduced but the underlying fruit seems ripe. There is very good energy to the moderately concentrated flavors that also possess an attractive mid-palate mouthfeel before terminating in a youthfully austere and refreshingly saline-inflected finish. Drink 2033+, Burghound (Apr 2020)

{***}{region} Burgundy {region}
{color} Red {color}                                                              

{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text}
{vintage}2018{vintage}
{ratings}

[] Vinous:: 91-93/100

[] Burghound:: 91-94/100{ratings}{***}

This is sourced from the domaine’s vineyards on the higher slope, Les Larrets above Lambrays and En la Rue de Vergy above Clos de Tart. With everything de-stemmed, the wine is very perfumed, floral and intense, lifted by evident limestone minerality. No Grand Cru fruit was included this year, nor will there be in the future, says Jacques. Drink 2022-2028.

{***}
{region}Morey-St Denis{region}
{color}Red{color}                              

{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text}
{vintage}2018{vintage}

{ratings} 

{ratings}

{***}

Firm reduction knocks down the underlying fruit at present. There is more size and power to the equally mineral-driven flavors that aren't especially dense, though neither are they dilute, while offering outstanding depth and persistence on the notably firm finale. Patience suggested. Drink 2034+, Burghound (Apr 2019)

{***}{region}Pommard{region}
{color}Red{color}              {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text}
{vintage}2017{vintage}

{ratings}

[] Burghound:: 91-94/100

{ratings}

{***}

{***}
{region}Gevrey-Chambertin{region}
{color}Red{color}

{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text}

 {vintage}2017{vintage}

{***}

Sérafin has two plots in this well-regarded Premier Cru, one with 60-year-old vines, the other closer to 40 years old. The purity and delicacy of the vineyard is evident and, given the vineyard’s proximity to both Clos de la Roche and Clos St Denis, there is much elegance in evidence too. Drink 2022-2027.

The harvest was done early and quickly here, starting on 6th September and finished by 12th. Karine Sérafin explained that the estate was harvesting earlier than before, to keep more freshness in the wines, and also working more with leaf coverage. The old vines negated any need to green harvest and yields are up by only 20 percent from 2016, but otherwise Karine and her cousin Frédérique are intent on preserving the individuality of Christian Sérafin’s style for vins de garde, with 100 percent new oak for everything upwards from the Gevrey Vieilles Vignes.

{***}
{region}Morey-St Denis{region}
{color}Red{color}                               {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text}
{vintage}2017{vintage}

{ratings} [] Wine Advocate:: 89-91+/100

{ratings}

{***}

An attractively spicy and beautifully layered nose offers up ripe aromas of red berry liqueur, violets, game and warm earth. There is good richness but also good detail to the vibrant middle weight flavors that possess good but not better mid-palate density before culminating in a firm, balanced and admirably long finish where a touch of youthful asperity appears. Note that this beguilingly and elegant wine is on the lighter side for a Clos de Bèze though it's one that should be approachable on the younger side but age well too over the medium-term. Drink 2024+, Burghound (Jan 2017)

{***}{region} Gevrey-Chambertin {region}
{color}Red{color}                                                              

{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For Laying Down{maturity-text}
{vintage}2014{vintage}

{ratings} []Burghound:: 92/100

{ratings}

{***}

A graceful tint of pale purple. Floral, with appealing sweet red fruit, clearly some concentration to the cherry and raspberry fruit, while there is clearly much more to emerge later on.
Jasper Morris MW - Wine Buyer

{***}{region}Morey-St Denis{region}
{color}Red{color}                                                                  

                              {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text}
{vintage}2013{vintage}{***}

As Pommards go, Les Pézerolles is rather Volnaysien in style, thanks to its limestone soils which give a more elegant and delicate expression. The fruit here is most definitely red and while there is some structure it is chalkier than a typical Pommard, giving a more accessible and approachable style. Drink 2022-2028.

Winemaker Brian Sieve draws comparisons between the white wines of 2017 and 2014, explaining that the texture, weight and freshness are very similar in both years, although 2017 has perhaps a little more fruit ripeness, along with excellent tension and persistence. He believes that this same freshness and brightness in the reds will provide ageing capacity, pointing out that they worked hard to restrict the yield of Pinot Noir to achieve riper grapes. Overall slightly less whole-bunch fermentation was used as Brian felt the stems and fruit were not as ripe as in richer vintages.

{***}{region}Pommard{region}
{color} Red{color}                                                             

  {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text}
{vintage}2017{vintage}
{ratings}        {***}

 Once again there is just enough wood to point out along with hints of menthol, anise and the sauvage adding breadth to the ripe dark currant scents. As is usually the case, the larger-scaled flavors possess more size and weight if not the same refinement or minerality as the Latricières where the supporting tannins coat the palate on the grippy, serious and youthfully austere finale. This is very definitely and 'buy and forget it somewhere deep in the cellar' wine. Burghound

{***}{region}Gevrey-Chambertin{region}
{color}Red{color}       

    {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text}
{vintage}2018{vintage}
{ratings}         
[]Burghound:: 92-95/100

[]Wine Advocate:: 92-94/100   

{ratings}{***}

As usual, older and younger vines are harvested and vinified separately. Tasted apart, the junior wine is lush and very driven by red fruit, the senior partner principally shows the density of old vines. Essayed in a 55-45 young-to-old-vine blend, the dark sweet fruit of the old vines is to the fore but kept mobile by the energy of the young vines. A very impressive double act. Drink 2025-2033.

{***}{region}Pommard{region}
{color} Red{color}                                                               

{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For Laying Down{maturity-text}
{vintage}2017{vintage}
{ratings}
 [] The Wine Advocate:: 92-94/100{ratings}        {***}

Having created a name for himself as régisseur (general manager) of Domaine du Comte Armand in Pommard, Benjamin Leroux established, with English backing, a small négociant business based in Beaune since 2007. The range is confined to the Côte d’Or, from Chassagne-Montrachet to Gevrey-Chambertin, with the intention of developing farming contracts or indeed purchasing vineyards in the future.

The possibilities are very exciting for this exceptionally talented vigneron. Benjamin is a master at delivering purity of fruit alongside a seamless texture in his wines which have only the subtlest influence of oak.

{***}{region} Vougeot {region}
{color} Red {color}                                                              

{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text}
{vintage}2018{vintage}
{ratings}
{ratings}{***}

An even spicier and wonderfully expansive nose reflects notes of anise, clove, lavender and violet that suffuse the red and dark pinot fruit scents. The mouthfeel of the big-bodied flavors possess a lovely sense of underlying tension along with good detail and a subtle minerality on the equally firm but somewhat less austere finale. This is slightly more complete and a wine of class and grace though make no mistake, if you wish to see it at its peak, a good deal of patience is advised.  Burghound (Jan 2020)

{***}{region} Gevrey-Chambertin {region}
{color}Red{color}                                                              

{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For Laying Down{maturity-text}
{vintage}2018{vintage}

{ratings} []Burghound:: 93-96/100

[]Wine Advocate:: 94-96/100

{ratings}

{***}

{***}{region} Vougeot {region}
{color} Red {color}                                                              

 {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text}
{vintage}2017{vintage}
{ratings}
{ratings}{***}

Selectively picked from the oldest vines of Clos des Corvées (the name “Clos des Corvées” is reserved exclusively for the first selective pick of “millerandés” grapes), a wine of enormous body and depth.

{***}{region} Nuits-St Georges{region}
{color}Red{color}        {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text}
{vintage}2018{vintage}{***}

Made from the fruit of a single vineyard (La Dalignère), this is inherently richer and more powerful than Sébastien's other Hautes-Côtes wines and he therefore chooses to raise it in barrel, rather than a combination of barrel and tank. The nose combines lifted floral and berry notes with an engaging earthy, spicy character. It has great concentration and depth of fruit on the palate, so try it with a hearty meat casserole. 

{***}
{region} Burgundy{region}
{color} Red{color}                      

{maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text}
{vintage}2018{vintage}{***}

This important vineyard in the Hautes-Côtes sits above the main vineyards of Nuits-St Georges. The Rions have access to fruit from vines planted at high density, which controls yield and improves quality. This has a very pretty redcurrant bouquet, with some finesse and good weight on the palate, showing none of the skinniness sometimes found in the Hautes-Côtes. Drink 2021-2027. 

{***}{region} Burgundy {region}
{color}Red{color}        {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text}
{vintage}2017{vintage}{***}

A potent mix of wood spice, Vosne spice and pain grillé introduces rich, full, sweet and sleekly muscled flavors that are impressively scaled and powerful on the dusty, ripe and stunningly long finish. This really stains the palate and the intensity is almost painful yet there is impeccable balance. One to cellar.

{***}{region}Vosne-Romanée{region}
{color}Red{color}                                                              

    {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text}
{vintage}2005{vintage}
{ratings}           
 [] Allen Meadows:: 94/100     
{ratings}{***}

The 2017 Nuits Saint-Georges Aux Julien 1er Cru includes one-third whole cluster fruit with 20% new oak. This has a lifted bouquet, very perfumed and well defined with vivid red and black fruit. The palate is well balanced with crisp tannin, good backbone, with a slightly chewiness towards the finish. Give this a three to five years once in bottle. Fine.

Drink 2022-2030

{***}{region} Nuits-St Georges{region}
{color}Red{color}        {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text}
{vintage}2018{vintage}

{ratings} [] Vinous:: 89-91/100

[] Burghound:: 89/100

[] Jancis Robinson :: 17/20

{ratings}

{***}

{***}
{region}Volnay{region}
{color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-keep{maturity}
{maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text}
{vintage}2017{vintage}

{ratings} [] Wine Advocate: 89-91/100{

ratings

}

{***}

This is from young vines from cuttings of old Pinot Fin – taken from the Clos des Epeneaux around 20 years ago – planted on a steep, south-facing limestone slope. With 50% whole bunches, there’s a gorgeous fragrant and floral nose, and a twist of herbal freshness on the palate. It’s stylish yet crunchy, with pretty red berry fruits. Drink 2022-2030.   

{***}
{region}Burgundy{region}
{color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-keep{maturity}
{maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text}
{vintage}2019{vintage}

{ratings} {***}

One of the most beautiful vineyards of Terroir, with its more than 85 years of life, lives vibrant in the contrast between the freshness of the winds of the Combe and the heat held by the sunny pebbles of the ground. 

{***}
{region}Vosne-Romanée{region}
{color}Red{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity}
{maturity-text}For Laying down{maturity-text}
{vintage}2018{vintage}

{ratings}   

{ratings}

{***}

This old vines cuvée comes from a tiny parcel of vines nearly 79 years in age that were planted by Massale Selection. The sub-soil here is chalk but there's limestone and clay up above. This is a structured red Burgundy that's powerful and will benefit from age. The majority of the domaine's vines are old vines (Massale) planted in the 1930s and 40s. Naturally the yields are miniscule for this reason making this wine all the more rare.

{***}
{region}Vosne-Romanée{region}
{color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity}
{maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text}
{vintage}2018{vintage}

{ratings}   

{ratings}

{***}

Vinification with the stems gives these wines a notable character on the nose, with floral, spice and rose petals all coming to the fore, and an impressive density on the palate. This is a very graceful wine, and the finish shows a touch of tannin to maintain structure.
Jasper Morris MW

Domaine de Montille picked between the 18th and 26th September in 2010. The red wines, made by American Brian Sieve (one of two winemakers in this catalogue born in Indianapolis!) under the surveillance of Etienne de Montille, now show a consistency of style and quality that perhaps was not entirely there a few years ago. The whites are the responsibility of Etienne’s sister Alix and maintain the class of recent times. Together they have produced a fine result in 2010.

{***}{region}Pommard{region}
{color} Red{color}                                                             

  {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text}
{vintage}2010{vintage}
{ratings}   [] The Wine Advocate:: 91-93/100     {***}

The vine comes from a great gene pool. It is regular and has many millerandage berries. The wine has the typical structure of Nuits-Saint-Georges, but the tannins are elegant and reflect the near Vosne-Romanée. The Nuits Saint-Georges 1er Cru Aux Cras is tasty and dynamic, always with a good balance. The flesh, very present, with notes of juicy black fruit (blackberries, blueberries, blackcurrants) is enriched with floral nuances (elder, heather) and spicy.

{***}{region} Nuits-St Georges {region}
{color}Red{color}        {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text}
{vintage}2018{vintage}{***}

A cool site giving low pH wines (higher acidity). Mid purple in colour with no great depth, an elegant light red fruit nose, strict, fresh raspberry and alpine strawberry. - Jasper Morris MW

{***}{region}Gevrey-Chambertin{region}
{color}Red{color}                                                               

 {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text}
{vintage}2018{vintage}
{ratings}      [] Jasper Morris :: 89-93/100   
 
{ratings}{***}

This truly special wine is named after Etienne and Alix de Montille’s mother. It’s made from 0.49 hectares of vines which are now classified as Malconsorts but separated from the main domaine holding by a path – nestled against the north and west edges of La Tâche. While it has never been classified as part of the famous Grand Cru, it has a unique character which sets it apart. And the vines are older, giving a more concentrated expression. This is spicier and more darkly fruited than its partner, with a firmer tannic structure, greater concentration and more ageing potential. The wine is made with two-thirds whole-cluster and around 65% new oak. Drink 2024-2050.

{***}{region}Vosne-Romanée{region}
{color}Red{color}                                               

                                                 {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text}
{vintage}2016{vintage}
{ratings}           
        
{ratings}{***}

Having created a name for himself as régisseur (general manager) of Domaine du Comte Armand in Pommard, Benjamin Leroux established, with English backing, a small négociant business, based in Beaune since 2007. The possibilities are very exciting for this exceptionally talented vigneron. Benjamin is a master at delivering purity of fruit alongside a seamless texture in his wines, which have only the subtlest influence of oak.

The vineyard is farmed by Benjamins right-hand man, Jean-Charles Carr, and the Clos de la Cave des Ducs is the epitome of perfectly balanced Volnay not massive but with an exquisite delicacy of red and black fruit and great persistence.

{***}
{region}Volnay{region}
{color}Red{color}                               

{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text}
{vintage}2009{vintage}

{ratings} [] The Wine Advocate:: 92/100
{ratings}

{***}

Clear, bright and glowing purple this seductive looking Volnay from Domaine de Montille does not disappoint. Very fine, soft and elegant fruit in the foreground is followed by fruit that builds steadily on the palate and keeps going all the way through.

{***}{region}Pommard{region}
{color} Red{color}                                                             

  {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text}
{vintage}2009{vintage}
{ratings}   [] The Wine Advocate:: 91-93/100     {***}

One of the most beautiful vineyards of Terroir, with its more than 85 years of life, lives vibrant in the contrast between the freshness of the winds of the Combe and the heat held by the sunny pebbles of the ground. 

{***}
{region}Vosne-Romanée{region}
{color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-keep{maturity}
{maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text}
{vintage}2009{vintage}

{ratings}

{ratings}

{***}

The 2009 Volnay Champans flows across the palate with the grace of a ballerina. An exotic bouquet melds into expressive red berries, flowers, tobacco and spices. Clean, chalky notes frame the long, beautifully articulated finish. The tension and sheer energy here is fabulous. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2029.
Antonio Galloni - 26/04/2012

{***}{region} Volnay {region}
{color} Red {color}                                                              

 {maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text}
{vintage}2009{vintage}
{ratings} [] The Wine Advocate:: 93/100
{ratings}{***}

This is one of the best sites in the Hautes-Côtes. It’s south-facing and stony; Sébastien’s holdings have a lot of old vines. “Complexity” isn’t a noun often associated with the Hautes-Côtes, but there’s clearly an extra dimension to this wine. It’s expressed by a sinewy structure overlaid by hints of turmeric and fulsome crunchy red fruits. Drink 2021-2027.

{***}
{region} Burgundy{region}
{color} Red{color}                      

{maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text}
{vintage}2019{vintage}{***}

After a tiny crop in 2008, Vougeraies Bonnes-Mares has delivered both quality and quantity in 2009. There is beautiful supple fruit at the front of the palate, with greater density behind in the form of plum and cherry fruit.

{***}
{region}Morey-St Denis{region}
{color}Red{color}                              

 {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For Laying Down{maturity-text}
{vintage}2009{vintage}

{ratings}[] Wine Advocate :: 94+/100

{ratings}

{***}

Elegant. A medium-bodied, medium-intense package, showing ripe and clean berry character, with a spicy, smoky undertow. 

{***}{region} Volnay{region}
{color} Red {color}                                                             

{maturity}drink-now{maturity} {maturity-text}Drink Now{maturity-text}
{vintage}2011{vintage}
{ratings}

{ratings}{***}

Good deep red-ruby. Cherry and leather on the nose. Juicy and sweet, with a fresh quality to the black cherry, red berry, smoke and caramel flavors.

{***}
{region}Beaune{region}
{color}Red{color}                               {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text}
{vintage}2009{vintage}

{***}

Vaucrains is situated in the heart of the appellation just south of the town of Nuits itself. It sits above Les St Georges and Les Cailles and intensity and minerality are its hallmarks. The young genius that is David Croix has fashioned this brilliant wine for Camille Giroud.

Giroud's Nuits-St Georges has a notably tough, dense structure, which is the terroir of Vaucrains speaking. Sensitive handling means that it has avoided any feeling of roughness – a really grown-up version of the Maranges, perhaps?

{***}{region} Nuits-St Georges{region}
{color}Red{color}        {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text}
{vintage}2009{vintage}

{ratings} [] The Wine Advocate:: 91-94/100

[] Burghound :: 91-94/100

{ratings}

{***}

No Raviolles this year, but this is a fine mix of Vosne terroirs; the softness of the southern vineyards mingles with the silkiness of Maizières. Although a big cuvée for Ben, all the fruit is from a single source; there’s a velvety completeness to the wine. It’s plush and heady, with a fine architecture of tannin and freshness. Drink 2022-2032.  

{***}{region}Vosne-Romanée{region}
{color}Red{color}                                                                   

                             {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text}
{vintage}2019{vintage}
{ratings}           
      
{ratings}{***}

Exceptionally heady, with a huge volume of fruit at the back of the palate, this Nuits-St Georges wine is so full of fruit that it completely covers the undoubted structure, and it just keeps on going! Jasper Morris MW

{***}{region} Nuits-St Georges{region}
{color}Red{color}        {maturity}drink-now{maturity} {maturity-text}Drink Now{maturity-text}
{vintage}2009{vintage}

{ratings} 

[] Jancis Robinson :: 17.5/20

{ratings}

{***}

An extraordinarily fine wine which will blossom over the next decade. This is a powerful Pommard, black in colour and thickly textured. It would be an impressive match for jugged hare or chicken cooked with black olives.

{***}{region}Pommard{region}
{color} Red{color}                                                               

{maturity}drink-now{maturity} {maturity-text}Drink Now{maturity-text}
{vintage}2001{vintage}
{ratings}
{ratings}        {***}

The 2005 Nuits Saint-Georges Clos des Porrets Saint-Georges 1er Cru is both bold and expressive on the nose with black fruit, pressed iris flowers and a hint of iodine. I appreciate the delineation, not to mention the complexity that emerges after 30 minutes in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied, quite structured as most 2005s have remained, but it is redeemed by a wonderful line of acidity. Perhaps I would have preferred more flesh towards the saline finish but that might develop with time. One for the patient. (NM)  (10/2018)

{***}{region} Nuits-St Georges {region}
{color}Red{color}                                                               

{maturity}drink-now{maturity} {maturity-text}Drink Now{maturity-text}
{vintage}2005{vintage}

{ratings}[] Vinous:: 90/100

{ratings}

{***}

This remains incredibly youthful though not without a certain appeal as the ripe nose of spicy and seductive red, black and violet aromas offer fine complexity. There is excellent volume to the very rich, full-bodied and impressively concentrated middle weight plus flavors that are at once appealingly textured and wonderfully long. This is supple on the mid-palate because of all of the mouth coating extract yet the finish firms up quickly as the vineyard's proximity to Bonnes Mares is very much in evidence. For my taste it would be a waste to open one of these in the next 5 years and it will need at least another 7 to 10 years to be at its best. That said, it should be terrific once it finally peaks. - (09/2013) Burghound

{***}{region}Chambolle-Musigny{region}
{color} Red{color}                                                              

 {maturity}drink-now{maturity} {maturity-text}Drink Now{maturity-text}
{vintage}2005{vintage}
{ratings} [] Burghound:: 92/100
 {ratings}        {***}

This is more discreet and reserved with wonderfully pure notes of red, black and blue fruits plus a lovely hint of violets that sit atop dusty, refined and gorgeously delineated flavors supported by an almost pungent minerality on the textured, long and explosive finish. This is more concentrated and structured than usual and should live for a very long time. *Outstanding* - Burghound

{***}{region}Volnay{region}
{color}Red{color}                                                             

  {maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text}
{vintage}2005{vintage}
{ratings}

[] Burghound:: 91-93/100 

[] Jancis Robinson:: 18/20 

{ratings} {***}

It's almost hard to believe but this offers even more elegance, finesse and precision than the Champans with a purity of expression that rivals the very best wines of the Côte de Beaune in 2002. This just oozes sap, which buffers the otherwise firm, mineral-infused, punchy flavors and rounds out the presently very racy finish. A wine of impeccable balance and this too is very Volnay.  - 4/2004 Burghound

{***}{region}Volnay{region}
{color}Red{color}                                                              

 {maturity}drink-now{maturity} {maturity-text}Drink Now{maturity-text}
{vintage}2002{vintage}
{ratings}

[] The Wine Advocate:: 90-91/100 

[] Burghound:: 93/100 

[] Wine Spectator:: 90/100 

{ratings} {***}

This too is quite ripe yet slightly fresher with airy and high-toned red Pinot fruit that gives way to detailed and intensely mineral-infused flavors that retain a lovely sense of purity and refinement on the balanced, long and penetrating finish. This is an exercise in harmony and transparency. In a word, terrific. *Sweet spot, Outstanding* - Burghound

{***}{region}Volnay{region}
{color}Red{color}                                                             

  {maturity}drink-now{maturity} {maturity-text}Drink Now{maturity-text}
{vintage}2005{vintage}
{ratings}

[] Burghound:: 93/100 

{ratings} {***}

{***}
{region}Burgundy{region}
{color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-keep{maturity}
{maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text}
{vintage}2005{vintage}

{ratings} [] Burghound:: 91-93/100

[] Wine Advocate:: 93/100

{ratings}

{***}

Much more backward than the Amoureuses. This has an intense purple colour, very dense if currently unyielding fruit on the nose, and an impressively powerful palate, concentrated, tightly knit and backward. A great wine in the making.
Jasper Morris MW

We have decided to combine here the wines that fall under the domaine label and those produced officially as négociant wines and labelled as Patrice Rion. Most of these cuvées are from vines managed by Patrice who has one contract to farm the vineyards and another to buy the grapes. The exceptions are the village Chambolle-Musigny and Nuits-St Georges Vieilles Vignes where Patrice is not involved in the farming.

Patrice and son Maxime are tweaking their techniques a little by reducing new oak and slightly increasing extraction in the pre-fermentation stage. These are impressive results – the Nuits-St Georges continues the consistently fine streak of recent years while this is certainly the finest range of Chambolle-Musigny that they have ever produced. 2010 reminds Patrice a little of 1978 and 1991, two vintages with small yields, full ripeness and notable concentration.

{***}
{region}Morey-St Denis{region}
{color}Red{color}                              

 {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text}
{vintage}2010{vintage}

{ratings}
[] Burghound :: 92-94/100

{ratings}

{***}

{***}
{region}Burgundy{region}
{color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-keep{maturity}
{maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text}
{vintage}2017{vintage}

{ratings}[] Wine Advocate:: 90-92/100 {ratings}

{***}

There is plenty of freshly turned, and pungent, earth character on the somewhat gamy aromas of wild red and dark berries. The earth continues onto the solidly voluminous and rich middle weight flavors that possess very good punch while exhibiting excellent depth and persistence for the genre on the rustic finale. What is all the more impressive is that this wine should have no trouble aging well too if that's your preference.

{***}{region}Burgundy{region}
{color}Red{color}           {maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text}
{vintage}2018{vintage}{***}

A blend of three vineyards – La Taupe (above Combe d’Orveau), Les Babillères and Aux Croix (both on the flatter soil) – gives a nicely balanced reading of Chambolle. There is floral character, plenty of midpalate weight and generosity, alongside cool, crunchy minerals. An accessible Chambolle. Drink 2020-2025.

{***}{region}Chambolle-Musigny{region}
{color} Red{color}                                                              

 {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text}
{vintage}2017{vintage}
{ratings}
 {ratings}        {***}

Lovely sweet red berry fruit on the attack. This boasts a rich, silky texture but there’s crisp acidity behind; it’s a blend of grapes from Nuits and cooler, calcareous sites in Morey. Touches of grilled meats and toasty oak spice add intrigue. Another impressive effort from Florian. Drink 2022 to 2026.

{***}{region} Burgundy{region}
{color} Red{color}                                                              

 {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text}
{vintage}2019{vintage}
{ratings}
{ratings}{***}

From Les Pierres and Poirier du Clos. Clear fresh purple not too deep, some reduction on the nose which will blow of, otherwise quite a fresh raspberry fruit. Crisp clean and chiselled, now also some fresh cherry. 12.8% alcohol, which is what it tastes like. - Jasper Morris MW, November 2021

{***}{region}Chassagne-Montrachet{region}
{color}Red{color}                                                                      

{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text}

 {vintage}2020{vintage}

{ratings} [] Jasper Morris MW:: 89-91/100

 {ratings}

    {***}

Back in the fold after last year’s absence, this comes from the triangle of vines that protrudes between the Grands Crus Charmes and Griotte. It’s rare for a village wine to abut the Grands Crus; the result is an interesting, smoky, peaty nose and a fine, serious edge. There’s much more here than sunshine and ripeness. Drink 2022-2027.

{***}
{region}Gevrey-Chambertin{region}
{color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-keep{maturity}
{maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text}
{vintage}2018{vintage}

{***}

Sylvie Poillot, General Manager, farms the estate’s 42 hectares biodynamically. “We do this to preserve the fertility of soils, and to have a very good balance between the soil and the plant’s health,” she explains. It’s not just the soil health that’s changed: two decades on from their conversion to biodynamics, the wines are evolving too: “The wines are more aromatic and more expressive year after year,” she says.

Vougeraie has a huge three hectares here; half the vines are young and half over 50 years old. This is a wine of real aromatic intensity, with plenty of perfume and a touch of ground coffee. The palate is very juicy with a creamy, luxurious texture and a long, fine finish with layers of powdery, salivating tannin. Drink 2022-2028.

{***}{region} Nuits-St Georges{region}
{color}Red{color}        {maturity}ready-keep{maturity} 

{maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text}
{vintage}2018{vintage}{***}

From 10 parcels with an average age of 50 years, this is raised in 30 percent new oak. The basic material is excellent and there is plenty of freshness, overlaid by the oak, but there are really good things here for those who are patient. Drink 2022-2026.

The harvest was done early and quickly here, starting on 6th September and finished by 12th. Karine Sérafin explained that the estate was harvesting earlier than before, to keep more freshness in the wines, and also working more with leaf coverage. The old vines negated any need to green harvest and yields are up by only 20 percent from 2016, but otherwise Karine and her cousin Frédérique are intent on preserving the individuality of Christian Sérafin’s style for vins de garde, with 100 percent new oak for everything upwards from the Gevrey Vieilles Vignes.

{***}
{region}Gevrey-Chambertin{region}
{color}Red{color}

{maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text} 

{vintage}2017{vintage}

{***}

"Elegance personified with intensely spicy red and black fruit, anise and a hint of oak with mouth coating pungent fruit and earth flavors. The mouthfeel is extraordinary with fine tannins and superb length. This has enormous potential and is one of the finest Les St.-Georges I have ever tasted from Domaine Gouges"  
91-93/100 pts, Burghound.com

{***}{region} Nuits-St Georges {region}
{color}Red{color}                                                               

{maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text}
{vintage}1999{vintage}

{ratings}[] Burghound:: 91-93/100

[] Wine Advocate:: 89-91/100

[] Jancis Robinson:: 17.5/20

{ratings}

{***}

Georges Lignier is cousin to Hubert Lignier. In the 1980s the wines from the two domaines were broadly comparable, and a Clos de la Roche 1976 drunk in the summer of 2009 was superb, still remarkably youthful.

The vineyard holdings are impressive: Clos de la Roche, Clos St Denis, Charmes Chambertin, Bonnes Mares, Gevrey Chambertin Combottes, Morey St Denis Clos des Ormes, and village wines in Marsannay, Gevrey, Morey, Chambolle and Volnay.

{***}
{region}Morey-St Denis{region}
{color}Red{color}                              

 {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text}
{vintage}2005{vintage}

{ratings}
{ratings}

{***}

This is another important cuvée for Ben and it demonstrates his ability to capture the essence of a village’s character with, it seems, almost minimum effort. Everything was de-stemmed this year and, yes, it’s immediate and authentic, but also delivers more complexity than is at first evident. Notes of lavender and sweet peony, and a more schoolmasterly structure. Drink 2022-2028.

{***}
{region}Gevrey-Chambertin{region}
{color}Red{color}                              

 {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text}
{vintage}2018{vintage}

{ratings}[] Antonio Galloni:: 89-91/100{ratings}

{***}

The Boillot family has a long and rich history in Burgundy, and fortunately, Louis has a habit of holding back a little wine each year to be offered when it is at maturity. The village of Volnay is renowned for producing elegant, perfumed red wines, and this 2011 is drinking beautifully now. 

The nose is delicate and lifted with crushed strawberry fruit, a touch of sousbois, subtle sweet oak spice and gentle graphite notes. The palate is energetic and fresh with a keen thread of acidity that calls out for food, while the tannins are smooth and layered. This would be the ideal partner for duck or mushroom dishes.

{***}{region} Volnay{region}
{color} Red {color}                                                             

{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text}
{vintage}2011{vintage}
{ratings}

{ratings}{***}

The 2002 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru is a great success for retired winemaker Thierry Brouin. Redcurrants and cranberry on the nose, hints of allspice and tomato vine, all very well defined and conveying a sense of "coolness". The palate is very well balanced, a little rustic but with good weight, gently building towards a discrete ferrous finish that feels long and tender. This Grand Cru could be up and down in this period...this was definitely one of their finest moments. 5/2019, Vinous

{***}
{region}Morey-St Denis{region}
{color}Red{color}                              

 {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text}
{vintage}2002{vintage}

{ratings}
[] Vinous:: 94/100

[] Burghound:: 92/100

{ratings}

{***}

All the stems were used in vinification but, such is the intensity of the fruit, they don’t show. This is a rich, plump purple with a surfeit of ripe, velvety red fruit. It is very clean, very pure and very direct: lots of stuffing and lots of stems give this a very tight profile for the moment. This will take a bit longer than some vintages – but promises to be first rate.

Thierry Brouin, whose successor at the Domaine des Lambrays is about to be unveiled, is very happy with 2014, his 36th vintage in charge here. He began picking on 22nd September, relatively late by his standards, and is happy to have produced a little more wine this year (with the exception of the Premier Cru).

{***}
{region}Morey-St Denis{region}
{color}Red{color}                              

 {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text}
{vintage}2014{vintage}

{ratings}
[] Wine Advocate:: 93-95/100

{ratings}

{***}

Vaucrains rubs shoulders with Les-St Georges, the best site in Nuits. The nose is fine and detailed, the palate fresh coulis and marinated fruits in alcohol. Drink from 2010.

{***}{region} Nuits-St Georges{region}
{color}Red{color}        {maturity}drink-now{maturity} {maturity-text}Drink now{maturity-text}
{vintage}2002{vintage}

 {ratings}

{***}

There was only about half the normal yield this year (whatever that means at the moment), with only 30 barrels made. Tasting the separate components of younger (25-year-old) and older (65- to 80-year-old) vines, as well as the vin de presse , really highlighted where Paul is aiming to take the Clos. A new vertical press leaves more berries intact, and thus more sugar. There is an unusual level of suppleness (even in the vin de presse. This is really rather wonderful, a great terroir evolving with the times. Drink 2023-2035.

{***}{region}Pommard{region}
{color} Red{color}                                                               

{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For Laying Down{maturity-text}
{vintage}2016{vintage}
{ratings}
 [] The Wine Advocate:: 93-95/100{ratings}        {***}

The 2015 Nuits Saint-Georges 1er Cru La Richemone Vieilles Vignes "Cuvée Ultra" has another vibrant, generous bouquet with ample red cherry, cassis, crushed violet and mineral scents. It is very pure, almost sorbet-like. The palate is medium-bodied with fleshy ripe black cherry and blackcurrant fruit laced with a pinch of white pepper and minerals. Like Christophe's other 2015s, it offers panache in spades, with a caressing finish that lingers long in the mouth, a residue of orange rind on the aftertaste. This is excellent. (NM) - Wine Advocate

{***}{region} Nuits-St Georges{region}
{color}Red{color}        {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text}
{vintage}2017{vintage}

{ratings} [] Vinous:: 94/100

[] Burghound :: 92-94/100

[] Wine Advocate:: 92-94/100

[] Wine Spectator:: 95/100

{ratings}

{***}

Once again reduction pushes the fruit to the background. There is excellent punch and detail to the equally saline-inflected but more refined medium weight flavors that possess better complexity on the lilting and well-balanced finale. This graceful effort is very Chambolle in style and it should drink well on the younger side if desired. - Burghound

{***}{region}Chambolle-Musigny{region}
{color} Red{color}                                                              

{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text}
{vintage}2015{vintage}
{ratings} [] Burghound:: 90-92/100

[] Vinous:: 89-92/100

{ratings} {***}

{***}
{region}Burgundy{region}
{color}Red{color}
{maturity}drink-now{maturity}
{maturity-text}Drink Now{maturity-text}
{vintage}2001{vintage}

{ratings} [] Wine Advocate:: 92/100

[] Burghound :: 90-93/100

{ratings}

{***}

This sits just underneath Clos de la Roche and bears more than a passing resemblance to its neighbour. The 70-year-old vines produce tiny berries, giving great concentration of luscious blue fruit, plenty of power and a rocky, stony finish. A mini Clos de la Roche. Drink 2023-2030.

Having tasted numerous different wine styles Virgile decided he loves wines made with whole bunches, and has set about changing his winemaking to include a larger proportion each year, arriving now at a stage where he can’t imagine himself using less than 50 percent. His winemaking is consequently very gentle to avoid extracting harsh tannins from the stems. He began harvesting on 10th September, a little later than some neighbours as he waited for the stems to ripen. Virgile feels this is a vintage which has gained enormously from élevage, giving fine, elegant wines which will drink well early and age surprisingly well.

{***}
{region}Morey-St Denis{region}
{color}Red{color}                              

 {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text}
{vintage}2017{vintage}

{***}

The Bachelets’ reds are not to be overlooked. Harvested after the Chardonnay – with 2018 being the one exception – the Pinot Noir grapes are destemmed. This cuvée hails from a tiny, south-facing vineyard in the hamlet of Gamay. It’s immensely appetising, with cranberry and floral aromas, crunchy acidity and chalky tannins. Drink 2022-2027. 

{***}{region}St Aubin{region}
{color}Red{color}                      {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text}
{vintage}2019{vintage}

{ratings}

{ratings}

{***}

Evocelles was hit by a cataclysmic hailstorm in 2021; there’ll be hardly any wine next year. The three hectares of vines are at the top, touching the treeline (so of interest to the local wild boar). There’s Brochon spice, tight fruit and tannin. With 30% whole-bunch, this is a wine of vitality, finishing with some white pepper. Drink 2023-2029.

{***}
{region}Gevrey-Chambertin{region}
{color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity}
{maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text}
{vintage}2020{vintage}

{ratings} [] Jasper Morris MW:: 90-92/100

[] JBurghound:: 90-92/100

{ratings}

{***}

This is from a single 1.5-hectare plot in the lieu-dit Le Bas de Combe whose location next to Vosne-Romanée is borne out by this wine’s open, lifted bouquet which would be more Vosne than Nuits but for that engaging hint of spice. The oak (50 percent new) is well-integrated and there’s a pleasing roundness to the palate – indeed, this is remarkably complete for such a young wine. Drink 2020-2025.

Jean-Nicolas describes 2017 as a pretty vintage, with excellent approachability and drinkability at every level, with wines higher up the quality scale offering more complexity and some really serious ageing potential. Picking began on the 6th September in good conditions, and while there was a little rain towards the end, this did not have any impact on quality. The 2017 vintage was the final year under Vineyard Manager Christian Faurois, son and nephew of some of the original MéoCamuzet sharecroppers, who shared his passion for the vineyards with Jean-Nicolas and retired in May 2018. Our notes indicate whether each of the wines is a domaine or négoce bottling.

{***}{region} Nuits-St Georges{region}
{color}Red{color}        {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text}
{vintage}2017{vintage}{***}

This is rented from the same owner as the Vignes Franches; vines are also 60 years old. This is the most complex of Dominique’s trio: he considers it the best vineyard in Beaune. The wine is positive and structured, but with finesse, too. The red fruits are expressed more as spice, with a slightly ferric undertone. 

{***}

{region}Beaune{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity}

{maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}

{ratings}
 {ratings}        {***}

An extraordinarily fine wine which will blossom over the next decade. This is a powerful Pommard, black in colour and thickly textured. It would be an impressive match for jugged hare or chicken cooked with black olives.

{***}{region}Pommard{region}
{color} Red{color}                                                               

{maturity}drink-now{maturity} {maturity-text}Drink Now{maturity-text}
{vintage}1996{vintage}
{ratings}
{ratings}        {***}